Kletterhund

This was my first alpine route in Oregon fresh off the plane from Juneau W A Y back when... The continuous pelting of my first ascent lent it a certain ambience until the size of the chunks grew, hmmm, err, disconcerting... Hardly worse than soloing the avalanche couloirs of Mt. Juneau as a wee lad...

Protection is available - mostly the odd screw... The rock is mostly chossy to poor... The ice can vary considerably as well from crappy to not too bad... Schrund fun certainly! Conditions dictate the exact line and the pro to some degree as well with this one. I would advise early season and a genuine alpine start - lot of crap comes down this route especially by mid-morning! Good link by ScaredSilly in his previous post.

Don't be alarmed, Ben B. ... Most folks, including myself several times, would find it hard to imagine that one could confuse the headwall proper with the Sunshine or The Cooper Spur. As for the black ice... I have run into some big runnels of it at the top of the headwall late (June!) in the season.

Yes, it was a good show... Great little movie!

Claim to have... Really now... Enjoy the Black Ice!

Sorry to hear about your misplacement... but too much gear?!?

I would like to catch that slideshow as well... Anytime next two weeks except Monday nights...

Greg - I may be in that area in a few weeks - I have some trips planned near there at least. I have a drill and spare bolts and some L O N G cords. Keep me in mind if you still need the help! Jamie Peterson (David Peterson's nephew...)

Freakin' awesome video...

Just returned... Lots of good stuff to be had at great prices... Thanks Graham!

Hmmm... Isn't this actually an anticline? I believe the syncline of this particular structure is visible on the Oregon side... Anitcline denotes an up-folding... Syncline a down-folding? I know this feature has long been called The Syncline but... Just sayin'...

I have used the DMM Bugette on Mammut Pro Cord... It is nice. A great option for ultra light adventuring but that little Bug sure gets warm...

McKinley Rock?

Oops... And Colin is pretty AWESOME as well!

Mount Foraker - AWESOME!

Leftovers...

http://www.tuolumnemeadows.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=103&g2_serialNumber=1 Perhaps a homemade midriff harness then...

Yes, I agree, the SP is better for lead solo over TR solo - just a clarification for those considering an SP. Traxion set-up looks solid for solo TR. Alas, I have but a single Pro Traxion...

Yes, I agree, the SP is better for lead solo over TR solo - just a clarification for those considering an SP. Traxion set-up looks solid for solo TR. Alas, I have but a single Pro Traxion...

AhemMmMmMmMm... Silent Partner can be used for lead OR top-rope soloing...

Sorry to hear about your bad experience at The Butte... I have had several weird to bad experiences there myself... I have soloed at The Butte via shunt (80's!), Soloist, and SP... I much prefer the SP as a chest harness is not required. I know plenty of folks like the modified GRIGRI I just have not personally used that method. The dual Traxion method looks sound but then again - chest harness is needed... You will, and are, getting lots of opinions on the solo top-rope business here. Perhaps best in a stand alone thread but most folks here have good working advice. As The Butte is so short and you would likely be there only in drier conditions many of the aforementioned techniques should work fine. As for the local ruffians... K A R M A !

DAMN! That R E A L L Y sucks man... We will keep an eye out for sure. Lucky for them you were not returning to task with your tools...

Jim Bridwell! Good company for certain...

Which rope solo gizmo are you using? Silent Partner?

Thanks, I still don't have a first generation #4. I know they were released pretty soon after #1-#3... Do you recall if it came slung? I wonder if that was intentional or a QC issue? Anyway, thanks for the info!