klenke

Hey, pindude, that's a great reference. It will come in handy.

Sorry, I should have read the attachment again instead of simply reposting it. I was under the assumption that he (Norman Schur) made reference to homograph, which is what your lists of words are (individually, of course).

Further can be used for distance, time, processes, intangible things. Farther can only be used for distance. bow, tear, close, etc.: I refer you to this previous attachment from a thread last month...

There's irony in your comment, for Florida was once more like Spain before the English-bred bretheren turned it into an Anglo-Saxon land circa late 18th Century. (The oldest city in North America is or was once thought to be St. Augustine in Florida. It was a Spanish colony.) Now, with the continued immigration of peoples of Latino origin (Cubans, Haitians, etc), it's starting to look like Spain again. Interesting. But Spain like Florida? Only if they build a golf course within every township and range and open up bingo parlors and retirement homes on adjacent corners.

That's a variation of the joke whereby Schwarznegger was going to enact legislation to change California's official language to Austrian.

Hey wirlywind:

Yes, I'd like to know the answer to this too. Come on all you armchair politicians. Let's have it. Shall we do a quarterback sneak or just punt now and get it over with?

Wirlwind, I don't want to brighten your spirts. In fact, I don't want to go anywhere near your spirts.

Damn it! Why isn't this thread in the Legal Questions Forum? Oh wait.

Let me know if you want Maestro Klenke to give a guest lecture.

Further can act for further or farther, but farther can't act for further. Something abstract (like time or processes) can't be "farther," only further. Farthermost: Farthermore: There is no "unthaw," but un-thaw could be used in literature if the stress of the action was more important or meaningful in this form vs. freeze or refreeze. Treat on a case-by-case basis.

Oh bloody hell! I'm sorry, where would we have used that 100' handline?

Ahhh, shucks! Credit to me?!!! How long round-trip was it? BTW, you credit the above picture to Dustin in the gallery but the exact same picture is credited to one Peter Chapman on Sergio's McClellans Butte page.

I could be wrong on this point but I was under the impression the 9 to 5 workweek was based on a paid half-hour lunch break + two 15 minute breaks per day (for the blue-collar kind of worker). White collar (exempt) workers used the same schedule to keep everyone in phase. Both types of workers got a lunch and breaks on company time. Now (last 20 years?), 8 to 5 is standard but we now get an unpaid hour for lunch. The two 15-minute breaks are still "free" for the blue collar worker. The white collar worker can take these breaks too but he doesn't work to a schedule so rigid (like line techs getting a break after sitting on their asses for 2 straight hours).

Found this on the web: The FortyHourWeekHistory in American history comes from the labor movement in the early 20th century. Workers in the new factories, sweat shops, and other industry related fields of the late 19th / early 20th centuries worked up to as many as 60 hours a week under poor conditions and with little in the way of wages. As the workers gained strength in unions, they started demanding a reversal of this poor state of affairs. Eventually, the union members in their various fields of labor won out against their employers through a variety of tactics (organizing, striking, etc.) and managed to get the FortyHourWeek. This was put into action Federally in 1938 with the Fair Labor Standards Act, which created a implicit maximum 40 hour work week by requiring time and a half for any hours in excess of 40 or 8 hours in one day, established a minimum wage, and forbade labor by children under the age of 16. That's the story in a nutshell as far as I understand it; feel free to correct / add more detail. Countervailing forces: The high cost of benefits, especially health insurance premiums, provides an incentive to demand overtime because it is cheaper to pay 1.5 times for the extra hours than to pay a second worker's premiums. Paradoxically, it encourages part time employment or hiring of temporary employees, because many companies do not pay benefits to part time employees, and most temporary agencies do not provide health insurance. Also, it encourages the classification of employees as "exempt," that is exempt from timekeeping and without any overtime pay at all. Almost all companies treat their programmers as exempt. In the last 15 years or so, the laws have changed so that "highly paid" hourly employees do not have to be paid time and a half, but only straight time for hours above 40. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ It has long been my opinion that a lot of task-oriented employees needlessly work overtime. That is to say, if they worked more efficiently, they could do that 46 hours in 40 (or even less than 40). I used to know a guy (engineer) who'd work 50-60 hours a week. I told him that when the axe comes down it's not going to matter to those making the decision as per your fate how many hours per week you've given to the man. Sure enough, he got laid off...and he basically wasted all those extra hours at work when he could have used them to enrich himself away from work. And so it goes, and so it goes.

Here comes St. Paddy's Day. Time to dust off the oldies but goodies... Into a Belfast pub comes Paddy Murphy, looking like he'd just been run over by a train. His arm is in a sling, his nose is broken, his face is cut and bruised and he's walking with a limp. "What happened to you?" asks Sean, the bartender. "Jamie O'Conner and me had a fight," says Paddy. "That little shit, O'Conner," says Sean, "He couldn't do that to you, he must have had something in his hand." "That he did," says Paddy, "a shovel is what he had, and a terrible lickin' he gave me with it." "Well," says Sean, "you should have defended yourself, didn't you have something in your hand?" "That I did," said Paddy... "Mrs. O'Conner's breast, and a thing of beauty it was, but useless in a fight." ******************************************** An Irishman who had a little too much to drink is driving home from the city one night, and of course, his car is weaving violently all over the road. A cop pulls him over. "So," says the cop to the driver, where have ya been?" "Why, I've been to the pub of course," slurs the drunk "Well," says the cop, "it looks like you've had quite a few to drink this evening." "I did all right," the drunk says with a smile. "Did you know," says the cop, standing straight and folding his arms across his chest, "that a few intersections back, your wife fell out of your car?" "Oh, thank heavens," sighs the drunk. "For a minute there, I thought I'd gone deaf." ****************************************************** Brenda O'Malley is home making dinner, as usual, when Tim Finnegan arrives at her door. "Brenda, may I come in?" he asks. "I've somethin' to tell ya." "Of course you can come in, you're always welcome, Tim. But where's my husband?" "That's what I'm here to be telling ya, Brenda. "There was an accident down at the Guinness brewery..! ." "Oh, God no!" cries Brenda. "Please don't tell me.." "I must, Brenda. Your husband Shamus is dead and gone. I'm sorry." Finally, she looked up at Tim. "How did it happen, Tim?" "It was terrible, Brenda. He fell into a vat of Guinness Stout and drowned." "Oh my dear Jesus! But you must tell me true, Tim. Did he at least go quickly?" "Well, Brenda... no. In fact, he got out three times to pee." ****************************************************** Mary Clancy goes up to Father O'Grady after his Sunday morning service,and she's in tears. He says, "So what's bothering you, Mary my dear?" She says, "Oh, Father, I've got terrible news. My husband passed away last night." The priest says, "Oh, Mary, that's terrible. Tell me, Mary, did he have any last requests?" She says, "That he did, Father." The priest says, "What did he ask, Mary? " She says, "He said, 'Please Mary, put down that damn gun...' ********************************************************* AND THE BEST FOR LAST A drunk staggers into a Catholic Church, enters a confessional booth, sits down but says nothing. The Priest coughs a few times to get his attention but the drunk continues to sits there. Finally, the Priest pounds three times on the wall. The drunk mumbles, "Ain't no use knockin'; there's no paper on this side either"....

ASTEROIDS!!!!

Say, Doolittle, that is a pretty good try at a "klenke post." Here's what I would say about the physics involved: Looking at it in terms of the conservation of energy, a climber falling on the rope develops an increasing kinetic energy based on the vertical distance already fallen (1/2mv~2 = mgh). A screamer is a device designed to dissipate this energy by way of the ripping of the sewn segments. That is, it takes energy (or force if you want to look at it that way) to rip a seam. Since energy can be neither created nor destroyed, any energy used to rip the seams will not later be imparted to the protection above the screamer. In a problem such as this, the energy balance and force balance equations both need to be used to obtain a solution. In this way, you can describe the problem/solution in terms of energy or force. Doolittle's force approach is confusing (in its writing style) but legitimate.

Catbirdseat said, "Klenke, your new title, 'volcano bigot', is an apt one." Huh? Matt, your comment is based on the fact that you've done the route in question (at least I am assuming so). I have not. Besides, you say it's the snowbasin on the right (i.e., not the one at center?). Beckey intimates in his CAG that it is the one in the center. I still think an annotated route line would be handy to me. Maybe Michael can do it and send it to me via email so you don't have to waste your time looking at it.

You pose an interesting question, Dru. Is the plural of bigfoot: bigfeet, bigfoots, bigfoot?

Nice TR--could have done without the blood, though. I especially like the way you captured the contrail piercing Sam's mid-section in the 6th picture. Reminds me of that movie "The Omen." Doh! Where'd the TR link go?

Great job, guys. I've been up to Lone Tree Pass and a little beyond. Didn't make the summit. I said the next time I'm going to go straight up the glacier (like you guys just did). Here is a photo of the glacier and mountain: It would be cool if you could take this photo, annotate the route you took up the glacier, then resubmit it here.

Windy Peak 1. The Windy Peak Trail (the one that starts from Long Swamp and ascends past Hickey Hump) is actually 7 miles long, not 9 miles as you state. This "new" mileage was confirmed two ways: A. a mileage on a sign at the junction with the trail going east to Irongate (about 5 miles north of Hickey Hump) B. my topo software 2. There is apparently a new trail west of the Windy Peak Trail that is two miles shorter. The new trail is called the Windy Creek Trail. The trailhead for this is approximately 3 miles west of Long Swamp on FR-300. The Windy Creek Trail starts at ~5,560 ft and climbs 5 miles in a generally NNE direction to the summit. It junctions with the Windy Peak Trail a couple hundred yards below the summit. Jack Mountain There is a shortcut class-4 route to Jack's South Face from Little Jack that warrants more consideration since it will probably save about 2 hours round trip. (Plus, it avoids the brush farther below the South Face.) Sergio Verdina and I did this route in September 2002. After where you state in your guide, "then bear downhill (NE) along the cliff base" this is what we did: On the downhill traverse at 5,600 ft at the base of the buttress forming the lower part of the SE-bearing spur ridge coming off of Pt. 8161, we turned left (due north) and followed the base of the buttress between rock and brush for a hundred feet or so. There, the terrain opened up for easy walking until cliffs confronted us. We worked our way up through the cliffs and gullies closely left (west) of the first major stream course plunging through a canyon. This canyon presents a further impasse going east unless you get above the cliffs. On the return trip we found an easier way through this cliff where it abuts the aforementioned stream course. We dubbed this way the "Zigzag Route." It is this route that can be used on the ascent and the descent with only minor difficulties. However, a sketch would be helpful. I have attached a rough version. If you should choose to accept this alternate route and sketch, then I would be happy to draw one up that meets the current visual standards of your guide. After surmounting the cliffs and crossing the stream, it was a straightforward climb NE up steep heather to the corner at 6,800 ft on the SE-bearing spur ridge coming off of Pt. 8905. From this corner, it is a simple traverse to the base of the South Face, whereupon our route re-followed that of your write-up (more or less). Here is what I would say regarding the Zigzag Route (it seems to me this should be considered the standard route from Little Jack): When at 5,600 feet at the base of the SE-bearing spur-ridge of Pt. 8161, turn north and climb along the rock wall of the buttress for a short distance until the terrain opens up. Continue north for a couple hundred yards until a cliff to the NW and a canyon to the NE present an impasse. Locate a ramp bearing NE along the base of the cliff that goes through a short evergreen squeeze tunnel and thereafter becomes a ledge. The ledge terminates about 50 ft farther along. At the terminus, make an eight-foot step up (class 4) to another ledge that goes back left (west) about 50 feet to above the aforementioned tunnel. Make another step up (easier) to the next ledge that goes back right 60 ft or so. This ledge makes a jog upward at its east end (class 4) and more or less ends just beyond a scrub evergreen. Use the evergreen to green-belay yourself up to a short, grassy face (class 3 or 4) then bear right to a large evergreen patch. Footing here is hidden underneath but the evergreens should hold you snug to the rock. Keep going straight up from one evergreen patch to the next. Above this second patch there is a scree ledge that crosses the watercourse just above the canyon (easy). From here, it is easy all the way to the South Face. Note: it may be advisable to do a running belay up this zigzag. There are ample trees to girth-hitch runners to but rope drag could be a problem. A 30m rope should suffice. The foregoing is obviously fairly long, hence the reason for including a sketch. (An annotated photograph would be even better.) With a sketch or annotated photo, the foregoing description can be condensed. Here is the sketch in its current style: Ptarmigan-Lago Traverse A class 2-3 traverse can be made between Ptarmigan Peak and Mt. Lago. A cursory mention of this seems warranted. The only difficulty en route is to locate the eroded, talus ledge on the west side of Pt. 8165. It is not really possible to climb up and over Pt. 8165 due to a class-5 wall on the NW corner. The ledge is class 3 rubble. It bypasses Pt. 8165 entirely about 50 feet below the top. Also, it is probably less of a hassle to climb up and over Dot Mountain as opposed to around its SE slope. Two pictures of the traverse and the bypass ledge: Traverse to Lost from Butte Pass A traverse can be made to Lost Peak (in the Pasayten) from Butte Pass by way of Pass Butte. If coming from Shellrock Pass, this is the best route as it avoids all the scree slopes on the SW flank of Lost. From Butte Pass, the idea is to hike the pass divide eastward and then directly up class 3 gullies and talus to the ridge crest between Pk 8211 and Pass Butte. Turn right and traverse the ridge around to Lost. No difficulties. The SW flank of Lost makes for an excellent scree descent but I wouldn't wish it on anyone for an ascent route from Monument Creek. Ptarmigan Creek When I went through there in August 2001, the trail down Ptarmigan Creek on the north side of Butte Pass was heavily windfallen. It seems the Forest Service no longer feels it necessary to clear trees from unpopular trails within the Pasayten Wilderness. Route up to Big Craggy Basin (to camp) If climbing up to the basin encircled by Big Craggy, West Craggy, and Pt. 8112, I found that the SW side of Copper Glance Creek was mostly open meadow-like travel between the talus acclivity at the base of Pt. 8112 and the full-on trees farther to the east. The creek descends through here. It was very easy going all the way up to the basin. Mt. Bigelow is NOT an "all-talus" hike from Eagle Creek The route up Mt. Bigelow from Eagle Creek (Upper Eagle Lake) is most definitely not an all-talus hike as you state in your previous edition. If you were referring to a route over Horsehead Pass then around the west side to the summit, then you ought to state it as much. The east side of the South Ridge of Bigelow is a shear wall all the way from the summit to Pt. 8202 a half-mile south. The (easiest) route up the east side of Mt. Bigelow from Upper Eagle Lake is as follows: From the NW end of the lake, hike NW up talus and through minor cliff bands to the upper talus and boulder slope. Turn north and climb all the way to the the East Ridge immediately below the summit tower. Climb exhilaratingly exposed class 3 along the NE wall of the tower through a small notch to a shallow class-3 gully on the left (south). Scramble this gully to the top. A picture of the upper east side of Bigelow (with the class 3 finish near the small vertical snowpatch at far right shown): The summit tower completion goes up next to the snowpatch just below and right of the summit then crosses through a notch into the gully just below and left of summit. Also, a route can be climbed from Crater Creek. From Upper Crater Lake, climb up to the East Ridge just east of Pt. 8356 then scramble through a corrugation of gullies and ribs on the south side of the ridge to the summit tower (with rest of route as described above). The East Summit of Raven Ridge is higher than the West Even though the West Summit of Raven Ridge (aka Libby Mountain) is triangulated at 8580 and the East Summit (aka Corax Peak) is triangulated at 8572, I am fairly certain that the East Summit is higher than the West. I think there was a survey error. My guess is that the East Summit is about 10 feet higher than the West. Triumph approach to notch camp is longer than 3 hours You state 3 hours to get from the car to the notch camp (5,760+ ft) on Thornton's East Ridge. I don't know of anyone that has done that approach in three hours with a heavy pack. It took us 4 hours, 15 minutes and we're not slowpokes. You might consider revising to 4 hours (or 3-4 hours). You could possibly do it in three hours if you were not carrying overnight gear. Custer from East Ridge You state that "a traverse along the entire E ridge of Mt. Custer was made to Mt. Rahm by Dick Kegel [note spelling] and Rus(s) Kroeker in July 1979". Tom Sjolseth and I did the reverse of this in August 2003. Except for the routefinding up the east end of Custer, the traverse is no harder than class 3, though it is regularly exposed along the crest. The crest is often the best choice due to loose scree and talus on the south side. Further, it seems worthwhile to give a description of the route one takes to bypass the steep step on Custer's East Ridge 200 yards before the summit: From the notch below the steep step, contour twenty feet downward on the south side of the ridge to a loose ledge. The ledge bears into the wall beyond and soon becomes a gully full of debris. Scramble nearly to its head to a small, unseen notch on the left. Cross through this notch to the next gully over, then climb 20 feet of class 4 in the gully to the top of the wall. From there the rest of the climb is class 3 scrambling to the top. Here is a picture of the route: Mt. Spickard NE Ridge Variation from Glacier A variation for the Silver Glacier (North Glacier) Route is to complete the climb on the east side of the NE Ridge. Instead of climbing all the way to the top on steep snow and ice (possibly problematic in late season due to a schrund higher up), go through the obvious notch at the base of the NE Ridge. Scramble a succession of gullies and ribs either on the crest or closely east of it to the top (class 3/4). Here is a picture of the schrund high up on the glacier (the notch exit for the variation is at far left at the snow swale): Swamp Creek is not that bad For a route to Tower Mountain and Golden Horn, you say "Swamp Creek is a bushwhack and not recommended." I personally wouldn't say that. Eric Hoffman and I approached the above two peaks from the highway via Swamp Creek and did it in a reasonable amount of time (approximately 3 hours to Snowy Lakes). It may be a push in terms of time requirements to go this way versus the Pacific Crest Trail from Rainy Pass/Porcupine Creek. The Swamp Creek approach is only four miles to the lower lake. The PCT approach is eleven. For the Swamp Creek approach: the first mile or so from the road is through open forest with minimal bushwhacking. We started by going up the south side of the creek from the south end of the road clearing at Swamp Creek (this is the obvious wide segment of highway with the low-angle embankment on the east side of the road). The second mile contains the worst bushwhacking but it was never so bad so as to completely bog us down. The south side of the creek here (from the 4,700 to 5,000-ft level) is largely open, though a tad boggy terrain with interconnecting bands of trees one must hike through. The last mile to the PCT rendezvous we did on the north side of the creek. There was a minor avalanche-churned forest to negotiate but it can be avoided by staying closer to the creek. The key is to turn north at 5,100 feet and hike up the drainage for the lakes. This is the concise version: A three-mile shortcut to the PCT where it crosses the basin below Lower Snowy Lake. Park at the wide spot in the road (c. 4,200 ft) about 3.5 miles from Rainy Pass [actual distance and elevation needs verifying]. Start by hiking through forest on the south side of the creek. The second mile is through boggy meadows and tree bands. Cross the creek at around 5,000 ft and at 5,100 ft bear northward up the lakes' drainage. Time: 3 hours to PCT. Oakes Peak approach road is becoming overgrown Your road description for the "Bacon Creek Road No. 3717" write-up should now mention that the branch road No. 3708 (East Fork)--the one that goes up and past Bacon Point--is in bad shape. The first mile or so is up a steep and stream-abraided road--especially at 0.7 miles (c. 880 ft). High clearance vehicles may be a must before too long. From there on, but especially after 2 miles, the road is becoming quite encroached upon by brush and small trees (alder?). I don't expect the road to be passable in that two miles in another couple of years. Lastly, at 3.2 miles (c. 2,080 ft), the road is washed out. It is undrivable through this washout. Ironically, the road is drivable beyond this washout for another 2 miles or so but the washout won't let you get onto it. Certainly it is amenable to mountain biking. However, after the October 2003 rainstorm, who knows the current state of this road. I know you cannot currently get to the junction to this road (1.5 miles from highway) due to washouts on Bacon Creek Road. A picture of the road in its current state (May 2003): Lastly... Sauk Mountain T.H. is at ~4,500 ft (not 3,650 ft) You mention that the trailhead for the Sauk Mountain Trail is at 3,650 ft. According to my Topo software (and verified by my memory of the terrain at that elevation), the trailhead is really at 4,500 ft.

If you like fastfood, I definitely recommend Wenatchee. They've got three of each chain. Where as, finding a regular restaurant in that town is as hard as finding the obvious gully.