David Yount

Grivel Air Tech Racing

Arc'teryx Khamsin 62Serratus SuperLiteKelty Cloud 4500 ($275 sale at Pro Mountain) the first two are excellent climbing packs in your size range. just because a bag is in your size range does NOT make it a good climbing bag. pay attention. the third is also a good climbing bag and there is none lighter, none. but typcial cost about $500 makes it out of reach. i've been collecting data over a year, and then Climbing did an article with results matching my own. i'd plug the khamsin 62 for exactly your stated desires. Climbing OnlinePacks for the long haulLightweight alpine/expedition backpacksBy Dave Sheldon

Petzl Ecrin Roc - lighter than some, not nearly as tall above the head as many (those tall ones look soooooooooo dorkish), great clips for your headlamp working better than most, but the single best reason for this bucket vs any other bucket I've looked at is the adaptation of a construction helmet technowidget............ those 2 quick ratcheting wheels! Begin the winter ascent with a balaclava or thin hat, as the day warms remove the hat and quickly re-adjust the comfortable fit of your Roc helmet. As the day continues to warm loosen the head-band strap just a tad to get a whisper of air circulation. If you typically like your helmet tight, have it your way, and when eating quickly and easily slack the chin strap for convenience in chewing and swallowing without every having to remove your lid.

Family Radio Service transceivers - FRS - can be an amazing tool. I am an amateur radio operator - KA7HLV - and I bought a pair of Radio Shack FRS radios as soon as they became available in 1997. The Federal Communication Commission - FCC - allocated a very small chunk of airwaves for use by the public fully unlicensed (no citizenship requirement, no age requirement, no knowledge test, no skill test, no license document required or available). The regulatory folks thought the use would ultimately (and quickly) degrade to the level of Citizens Band Radio Service - CB - that long haul commercial truckers use (failure to identify yourself, use of profanity, rebroadcasting copyrighted music, etc, etc ). Typical Users of FRS: In these first 5 years the FRS has shown to be actually economically elitist with downhill resort skiers, families in shopping malls, etc making up much of the use. Though FRS use has continued to explode, now that cell phones and cell service are less exorbitant and they have the ability to function similar to short distance two-way radios, many former FRS users don't use their radios. The bulk of use has been informative and highly useful for the public (as compared to the quality experienced on CB) and in fact many organizations/clubs have flocked to FRS because of the small size of the units, the very low cost of the units, and the unlicensed requirement. Some form of "Mt. Hood Ski Patrol" is using FRS this year, they chased me off their "customary" channel! Transmission Distance. Besides CBRS and FRS there is also GMRS - General Mobile Radio Service - but GMRS requires licensing. FRS gets 1/4 mile to 2 mile, CBRS gets 1 mile to 5 mile, GMRS gets 5 mile to 25 mile. Phil F experienced receiving transmissions on FRS while in Snoqualmie area from the Bellingham area, this is not a function of his receiving radio, it is a function of the transmitting radio, the power of the transmitter. The FCC put limits on the transmitting power of FRS so that it would be a very localized broadcast and it is technically a federal misdemeanor to alter an FRS radio for greater power. Hence the severely restricted quantity of bandwidth, only 14 lousy channels. It would be impossible to use FRS if everybody had the ability to transmit 25 miles! Skiers in Utah, Colorado and Lake Tahoe would be bombarded by skiers' radio chatter on a dozen close-by ski resorts!!! My Requirements: That first pair of Radio Shack FRS radios weren't so good. I waited several years and kept borrowing friends' newer units. Eventually I made my 1999 decision based on : Inability to change channels inadvertentlyEase of useSizeWeightAbility to easily secure with 3mm cordPriceUse of ubiquitous AA batteries My Choice: Motorola Talkabout FR50. These were the absolute lowest model that Motorola made at that time, and they cost just $35 at Costco ($70 for a pair). I have used many other models and I still prefer my FR50. They don't have subchannels but this makes them way easier to use. They function with all other FRS radios as long as the others are not using subchannels. There is also a remote headset/earphone jack. Battery Drain. I have dozens of days' use and I've noticed that _talk-time_ determines battery life, and not the amount of time the unit is simply turned ON. If I limit my talking then they easily last for 5 10-hour days. If I had to replace the batteries after 3 long days' use I would be very satisfied, they easily give me value beyond the cost of 3 AA alkaline batteries. I don't use rechargeable AA for radios because those batteries would need to be replaced frequently. Alpine Climbing. This is where radios provide increased communication that is excellent and sometimes almost critical. On my 70m rope scampering over ledges and aretes with the wind blowing….. many times it's IMPOSSIBLE to communicate safely by yelling at my belay. Even the "5 tugs means you're on belay" signal becomes useless when I'm saving time connecting 3 pitches with my 230-foot rope. With radios I've never been let down, adequate to perfect reception everytime. And sometimes the lead might want to ask for route alignment beta from the belay that has already lead the route several times…. Maybe I'm weak but I rather enjoy the simple convenience of talking casually with my partner rather than bellowing like a bull moose in rutting season. Belay"…wazzzzup?! The rope hasn't moved up for nearly 10 minutes. You still awake up there?…."Lead"….well….can't decide…...it all looks HARD…..wasn't there supposed to be a 10B variation to the 11C crux?…."B:"….yeah, I remember it goes left, under a roof, then up the left side of the roof to a nice hand crack for 30 feet, which rejoins the main route…"L:"….ahh, hadn't thought of traversing beneath that roof over there….was looking straight up and…….…hey, thanks…." L:"…I'm at the belay stance, give me 5 minutes to build an anchor and enjoy the view…"B:"…uhm, I'm freezing, the wind has really picked up down here, I want to begin moving now…"L:"…OK, I'll have you ON in 2 just minutes…" Road Tripping with 2 cars or 3 cars: Coordinating full bladders, coordinating empty gas tanks, coordinating empty stomachs, coordinating spontaneous hiking/sightseeing breaks.

"I would like to hear how you guys "bundle" up this mass of cord/webbing in a convenient, easy to get out again manner. " Electrician's Braid, knitter's crochet, successive slip knots, whatever you want to call it. My 24-foot cordelette (a 12-foot loop), grab and hold the joining knot (double grapevine, double fishermans, opposed double overhands, whatever you want to call it)and slide to the far end, put the two 'ends' together folding the original length in half. Make a small loop next to the joining knot (in all 4 strands), push a bight through the loop, push another bight through the first bight, and so on... until you have only a few inches left, slip the end through the last bight. Clip the end and the beginning. Total length 10-inches, making it smaller than the 'overhand' method and quicker than the 'coil' method, and much faster to deploy than both.

"What I am really after in this post is some feedback on how to deal with the fear after something like this happens. " Breathe. Accept. Don't ruminate. Enjoy now. Seek tomorrow. Don't project the past into the future. Breathe.

Any 'dry' treatment for dynamic climbing ropes is safe for accessory cords and static ropes. The materials are identical or highly similar.

You can purchase pre-cut and pre-tied or pre-sewn cordelettes and webolettes, you can also make your own. Cordelettes are made with round form factor cords, lines, ropes - 7mm nylon or polyester, 6mm nylon or polyester, 5.5mm technora/polyester or spectra-nylon/nylon or spectra-kevlar/polyester or vectran/nylon. Webolettes are made with relatively flat from factor tubular webbing - 12mm or 16mm or 17mm spectra/nylon. In 2001 catalog Sterling rates their own 7mm nylon accessory cord at 3210lb but Black Diamond's limited tests measured a bit less than 3000lb; tests observed 8% less than catalog values. In the 2001 catalog Sterling rates their own 6mm nylon accessory cord at 2630lb, so if we use the same 8% decrease translating from catalog value to theoretical observed value 6mm cord would be about 2400lb. The loop strength in BD's test for Sterling's 7mm nylon cord was a bit over 5000lb. This value is about 14% less than twice the single strand observed strength. If we use the same 14% decrease translating from expected loop strength to theoretical observed loop strength the 6mm cord would be about 4100lb. From the Bending Flex Cycle Test the 7mm nylon cord showed no drop in strength and it is not challenging to assume the 6mm nylon cord would behave identically with no drop in strength. Thus, the original single strand strength of Sterling 6mm nylon accessory cord of 2400lb (assuming they over rated their 6mm to the same percentage that they over rated their 7mm) would remain at 2400lb after significant use and the loop strength would remain at 4100lb. This single strand strength is greater than the single strand strength of any of the 5.5mm cords after flexing, making 6mm nylon cord stronger for cordelettes than 5.5mm high tech cords. This loop strength is greater than the strength of either sewn eyes on Mountain Tools Web-o-lette, making 6mm nylon cord stronger for cordelettes than the Web-o-lette. The 6mm nylon cord might not fail the 5 drops tests and if it did, it seems like it would fail only on the last drop. But this test is equivalent to not using a cordelette as an equalized anchor matrix (as per John Longs - Climbing Anchors) but as a single loop. So as long as you even pretend to equalize 2 pieces or more, the resulting 6mm nylon cordelette would not fail even after 5 maximum force lead falls. And you can purchase accessory lines in polyester rather than nylon, and polyester is significantly stronger (a tad heavier too though). I used to use 7mm nylon cords for cordelettes. Now I use 6mm nylon and also 5.5mm high tech lines. I used to use 19-feet but often-enough-to-be-annoying the resulting 3 legs or 4 legs were not long enough to clip my anchor pro. I moved up to 25-feet and it's made me happy. I figure the weight I'm saving by not lugging 7mm makes an allowance for a longer loop of 6mm. haireball has got the right idea. If I liked the webolette idea, but I don't, I would use 15-feet of bulk supertape, tie overhand-on-a-bight at each end and then tack the two knots' tails with a few hand stitches and since this stuff is darned slippery I'd tack on the other side of the knot too. But 6mm nylon or polyester cord is far far cheaper to cut and leave for rap anchors…. And 5.5mm cord just doesn't cut easy and quick in the field… besides… it's the most expensive. What do you leave, Dru? Notes: 5.5mm vectran-core with nylon-sheath, made by Sterling, is the worst choice by far for cordelettes (or slinging hexes) as per Black Diamond's very limited tests. It failed on the first test, it held zero falls. Whereas, Maxim 5.5mm Spectra-A held 5 falls. 5mm and 4mm nylon cords nearly the same by Sterling 2001 Catalog at 1144lb and 1034lb, giving an estimated theoretical loop strength of about 1650lb which is far far too weak to sustain a direct load from a nice lead whipper on an old stiff rope

I've 20/300 near sightedness and usually use contacts but prefer glasses sometimes. For backpacking I use only contacts with a 1oz container of multi-solution (since multi-solution and saline rarely come in bottles less than 4oz I bought 1oz and a 2oz bottles of cleaning solution, dumped the contents and use the bottles). I bring a storage case and I also take a new pair of backup lenses. For alpine climbing longer than 30 hours I still bring the 1oz bottle (rewetting, eye-emergencies, etc) but I don't bring a storage case. I bring a new set of contacts, disposing of the original pair on the second day. Costco beats everybody (1-800-contacts, contactsforless.com, whatever) and several makes and models cost just over $1 per contact and you buy them in boxes of 6, unlike many mail-order requirements of quantity 50 or greater….

I have two friends that went to Vancouver, BC together and both got LASIK. They each had both eyes done at the same time. A year later they are overwhelmingly enthusiastic and encouraging, no significant side effects. ...they don't climb. It's seems wise to have one eye done and then wait 2 weeks minimum before correcting the second eye. This is common, but many patients insist on having both eyes done at the same time to decrease inconvenience. In rare cases there are enhancement procedures to fine tune and stabilize the initial surgery. First year of procedure and current success statisticsUSA 1978 RK - 85% 20/40 from myopia -1.00 to -6.50 diopters (radial keratotomy)USA 1985 PRK - 90%+ 20/40 from myopia -1.00 to -6.00 diopters and 70% 20/20 (photorefractive keratectomy)USA 1991 LASIK - 90%+ 20/40 from myopia -1.00 to -6.00 diopters and 75% 20/20 (laser in situ keratomileusis)USA 1995 Intacs ICR - 97% 20/40 from myopia -1.00 to -2.75 diopters and 74% 20/20 and 53% 20/16 (intracorneal rings)2000 SRP no data found (Surgical Reverslal of Presbyopia - inability to focus within arm's reach) Cool thing about Intacs is that the central cornea is not altered and the tiny bands that subtly reshape the central cornea are fully removable. If you try this and the results aren't to your satisfaction they can be removed and replaced. And as you age your prescription may change, no prob, just remove and exchange. Or they can be removed and you can go back to glasses or contacts or try LASIK or PRK or RK or whatever's new on the scene. If one surgical procedure does not work out as well as planned, it seems to me that within 3 to 5 years and certainly within 15 years a new procedure will be developed that can be applied to the former surgery. I am sure that to those rare individuals where Radial Keratotomy or Photorefreactive Keratotomy or LASIK did not result in adequate outcome the newest procedure may reasonably fix it; or the procedure that will be developed 5 years from now. With surgical procedures it seems no sub-adequate result need be accepted as permanent. Many girls previously enhanced are getting updated breast surgery with fantastic results!

Sunday early PM two young 20's guys carrying single randonee ski (short at that) told me they were planning to turn it in. Hope you find it, wherever it might get to... 'lost and found?'

Precip jacket was on sale at Marmot Mtn Works in Bellevue for a week, 2 weeks ago, got mine for $80 Been skiing, snowshoeing three times, and up Guye Peak twice with it. Small hood not so great on outside of climbing helmet, didn't think to try it underneath - don't think I'd like that. Baggy shape is good for covering multiple layers of insulation while kickin' it in a snow cave for a few days; also good because when you strap a pack on fabric is eaten by hip belt, shoulder straps and sternum strap - excess fabric allows original mobility. It's nicely lite. A few too many velcro closures on the main zipper storm flap - no quick and easy escapes out of this jacket. But the one point I want to share is why I'll likely return it, the pit zips open at the bottom. Anytime you're wearing a pack over the shell and want to ventilate... fuggetaboutit! The shoulder straps hide the zipper pulls. No matter if I add long dangly cords to the zipper pulls, those shoulder straps will still get in the way. All the shells I've owned had pit zips that begun at the top, nearest the hand; or they had 2-way zippers (not extra value and added weight in my book). This makes sense. When trying to remove excess _heat_ why would I want to open from the bottom?? Damnit! And I thought I had found a perfect shell....

"I find it harder to lower at a consistant rate with a gri-gri. It's just to hard to control the speed of the descent with the lever, it's too touchy, there is such a fine line between locked and all the way open." The instruction pamphlet says the cam can be used to assist in braking when lowering a climber; but as Lambone said, it's too touchy. It's best to open the lever fully and keep it open fully while lowering or rappelling. But there are many cases where the belayer can't create enough friction with their braking hand to lower a climber smoothly and comfortably with a Gri-Gri - belayer has weak hand strength, climber is super heavy (haul bag is super heavy), belayer is in second week of roadtrip and previous week took it's tool on skin, etc... I've developed a piggyback friction system that provides smooth, comfortable and confident lowering from even the most tender and weak belayer's hands. This can be used to lower with a Gri-Gri using an 8.8mm line. Clip a biner on the belay biner on the right side of the Gri-Gri. Now clip the brake rope through the new biner. As you raise the brake rope it lifts the new biner up and into the brake rail of the Gri-Gri pinching the rope. I fashioned this after the Garda Hitch or Alpine Clutch. The brake biner should be small (Neutrino, Helium, etc) or medium in size (oval, symmetric-D, etc) because a larger biner won't create the pinching effect. Different biners create varying friction and control depending on the length of their major axis and the shape of cross section of the stock. Typically, cold-forged biners are preferable to hot-forged for this purpose (think cheap And perhaps it's best if the gate faces into the belayer's body and down, keeping it's opening furtherst from the brake rope. The load the brake biner places on the belay biner is less than 50lbs so there's no worry about improper 3 point loading of the belay biner. I've witnessed countless males hollering belligerently at a female belayer for lowering them jerky with a Gri-Gri. After I share my piggback friction system with them both, the female delights in the light hand it takes to fully control the brake line while lowering their unpropitious partner smoothly. ...a single leather glove for the brake hand reduces wear and tear on skin, but does not add significant additional friction in many cases... besides... who wants to trot about with a special glove just for belaying.... probably the same sporto that trots about Jacks Canyon with a Gri-Gri

Great close-up picture of that traverse on page 217 of Rock Climbing Washington, 1999 by Jeff Smoot. I can't find it now, but I saw South Face published at 10A. A 5.9? Sure. But 10A? It wasn't in Travelers Guide, 1999 and obviously wasn't in Washington Rock, 1982. It was published in some guidebook......

I've got 2 long sleeve crew and 1 long sleeve zip-T LIFA, with cute stripes on the upper arms, I still use them and they still work, all from early 80's. Mine aren't as warm because in 20 years they've become thread-bare with small holes cropping up. I've no idea what they made since then.... Patagonia silkweight and silkweight stretch are the most durable, some of the best looking and best performing base layers I've tried. I don't have any funk issues, but maybe that's just me.

"I have a pare (sic) of OR gaitors and OR overmitts that the velcro is coming unraveled to the point that the material is coming apart around the stiching. " With flame suit donned…. I would recommend you take your gaitors and mitts into REI Customer Service and show them the stitching, tell them how old they are, tell them you've gotten lots of use out of them and have been fully satisfied but now they need to be repaired and you want to know what your options are. Let them decide. But don't expect anything. The repair required might be something they do in-house and takes them just a few minutes. If this is the case it would be nice if they offered to repair for free. That is their choice. The repair required might be something that takes half hour and some parts. In this case they could offer to repair it but need to charge for time and materials. Their choice. If REI doesn't offer you exactly what they want, work with them, but don't argue. Still not satisfied? If you're local then stop in at OR and ask them about your options. ….but I gotta agree with iammo REI is no longer a climbers' co-operative getting us the best discount prices on top quality technical climbing gear from around the world, that spirit is so long gone….. just talk with the previous board members (soon to be the newly re-elected board members)….. I do…. their ideas in no way support the spirit behind the co-op's genesis. I don't swipe gear (wouldn't a #5 costalot cause some sort of problems when stuffed inside a dude's pants? And those chukar cherries stuffed downunder would create their own kind of issues… ) and I don't see much difference when somebody demands

Voile Telepro Shovel, though I have no dog.

I'm not sure why you're so bent out of shape, giving up on shoeing with such a promising long winter. You were willing to spend $109 w/tax at REI... and for $115 you can still have them, either color, from backcountrygear. ....from my previous post....1) MSR Denali Ascent 2002 (8x18") $143.95 3lb 12ozhttp://www.backcountrygear.com/manufacturers/MSR.cfmpay attention! it is very very rare these puppies sell for less than $159.95 and on the east coast commonly they sell for $199.95 And they now sell the Denali Classic, either Black or Red, for $109.95 Shipping is $6.00 Also, if you go to MSR which is on 1st Ave, west side, easy to miss, south of the new stadium but north of Home Depot and Sears/Starbucks/Whatever make sure to pick up the Sports Etc monthly newspaper-print magazine in the lobby. The mags right there 'cuz MSR advertises in it. Often there's a 20% coupon on any 1 item..... Enjoy. I doubt there's any reconditioned gear available to anybody outside of employees, past employees, friends of employees. But, it doesn't hurt to ask.

That old Colonial Store ain't so easy to find... the first time... Driving East from Exit 143 Silica Road (Frenchman Coulee Exit) on I-90, take the Exit for George. Then Right at the end of the ramp. Maybe 1/2 mile later as the road curves slightly, to your right is a single story building with many empty storefronts. Take the next right. Then take a right into the parking lot on the west face of the complex. Welcome to the Colonial Store. These directions are accurate in the gestalt though may contain errors in detail.

The Duty Free Shop on the Canadian side of I-5 southbound at the border was on Native 'American' land. The land was leased to the Duty Free Shop. I think it was last year, the lease term expired and was not made available for renewal. The last time I shopped there (and got my instant refund of canadian GST fees) everything was discounted and the shelves were almost bare. Question: is there a duty free shop now?

quote: Originally posted by tomtom: What are the rules on bringing stuff south across the border anyway? Thanks. Nobody's answered this yet, there are rules, but I forgot most of them. If you're buying more than $400 of canuck schwag then separate about $400 of stuff and have it handy to grab and show the US Customs booth employee; hide the rest deep. See, you're only allowed to bring back a limited value of canuck schwag, and you have to spend a specified minimum time in the great white before returning. If you don't spend at least 1 night then your limit is very low, like $200. The value limit per crossing might be about $800, but I've forgot this, right. After you pass the max value then they either keep your excess booty and laugh or they charge excise/duty tax on the excess booty. The excise/duty tax varies between 0.5% to 6% for most schwag MEC is hawking. ....and about getting home.... bring a passport... if it's over 10 years old or you don't have one then just remember to bring your state driver license and original or certified birth certificate or original social security card. failing the latter 2 documents then bring an original voter registration card. definately cross the border 10pm-5am and the lynden crossing (just a few miles east from I-5 peace arch crossing) rulz.

There have been plenty of times in Seattle's Vertical World where mass quantities (keg) of malted beverage were served and climbing ensued. Er.... maybe not serious climbing.... more like games..... er.... more like stupid human tricks, make that stupid climber tricks. A few years back at a climbing comp there remained a mostly full keg 'cuz most of the competitors were sorely underage.... So after they were driven home by mommy and daddy the remaining adults (that term is not used to connote wisdom nor maturity) began some serious work. Then all the fun ensued. VW employee who shall remain nameless but worked for Feathered Friends directly after VW instigated all manner of enebriated competitions. One comp involved asking for much slack after reaching ceiling. The belay weighed less than 115lbs and was not secured. The goal was to jump from the top, free fall through the slack, pull hard on belay and hoist him skyward, and eventually you stop moving. This particular comp was judged over after I jumped and met gravel with a solid WHUMP! I won? The next comp involved a big free fall, then sudden arc, and at the lowest point (determined by your requested slack) now try to grab roll of duct tape off prone volunteers chest while zooming on Maritime Pacific's finest malts.

With www.google.com you should never pay full retail for any gear. There's simply no way you would have to pay over $199 for snowshoes, regardless of make and model. A quick search yielded: 1) MSR Denali Ascent 2002 (8x18") $143.95 3lb 12ozhttp://www.backcountrygear.com/manufacturers/MSR.cfmpay attention! it is very very rare these puppies sell for less than $159.95 and on the east coast commonly they sell for $199.95 2) MSR Denali Classic (8x18") $99.93 3lb 10ozhttp://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=8000&prrfnbr=10989874 with either MSR snowshoe extra tails arenecessary: MSR 8x8" Tails 30 $19.93 1lb 0ozhttp://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=8000&prrfnbr=11009502&addon=676786-676789 3) Atlas 1025 (9x23") $164.93 4lb 8ozhttp://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=11063498&prmenbr=8000&cgrfnbr=4501652 (the measurements are what I consider the actual flotation area used for realistic comparison; the manufacturers will quote a larger area but I find this false) Any of the 3 set ups I feel is superior. MSR MSR MSR MSRMSR has 2 choices, either is excellent for technical use. The 2 MSRs are identical except the higher model Ascent has 2 spikes and a heel lifter, more about these options later. The Ascent and Classic are robust shoes and MSR is a joy to deal with for warranty/repairs. The crampons and lateral traction bars are hardened steel, many competitors use aluminum, which wear out quickly (with one notable exception, a single model of Tubbs uses titanium which makes the crampon far lighter). If you're a real person then you don't remove your shoes when faced with 10 feet of dirt/rock, you just cruise on over and aluminum looses its edge quickly. Dull crampons on hard spring snow or any kind of ice - that sucks. Those lateral traction bars are necessary for technical shoeing, they keep you from sliding sideways downslope when traversing across the fall line. These suckers give you 13" of useable steel, far greater than any other manufacturer. They also have 4 horizontal plastic ridges underfoot that help prevent you from sliding backwards when acending steeply and help prevent you from uncontrolled sliding forward when descending steeply. The bindings easily compress flat so a pair can be nested tightly together with low profile and lashed tightly to your pack with nothing sticking out; try that with Atlas or Tubbs .... never gonna happen. Hell, remove the MSR tails and you can store everything INSIDE your pack! (storing them out of sight is great theft prevention if you have to leave your pack unattended in a crowd of urban strangers.....) Altas 12 bindinghttp://store4.yimg.com/I/skishop_1676_12779238 Atlas 10 bindinghttp://store4.yimg.com/I/skishop_1676_12347502 Tubbs Mtn bindinghttp://store4.yimg.com/I/skishop_1670_2743663 Tubbs Pinnacle binding !!!!http://store4.yimg.com/I/skishop_1669_537350 MSR bindinghttp://store4.yimg.com/I/skishop_1673_4755552 This factor alone strongly persuades me to buy MSR 'shoes; very handy to stuff inside pack after getting to rock climbing route and commencing to rock climb. Comfort of the bindings should be top on everybody's list but in reality seldom do shoppers avail themselves opportunities to test and compare companies. I've tried them, each is superior in one way or another. I find MSR never uncomfortable, regardless of my choice for footwear (3mm full grain leather mtneering, 2.2mm nubuck leather, or trail runners) and I can not say that for any other binding. If bindings are uncomfortable when you wear them tight for several hours then they are not good. If your bindings aren't tight when you're doing technical work the slop may cause a fall. Now...................., if you're planning to wear plastic boots most of the time you might consider the Atlas 12 series or the Tubbs Mtn series. Each has racheting plastic buckles like those found on downhill ski boots (also found in dress belts http://www.ratchetbelt.com/products360.html ). No binding is uncomfortable when wearing plastic boots. But if you use the '12' or the 'Mtn' with leather boots you might discover painful hotspots. The nose has a nice aggressive curve to it which is necessary in soft or new snow, but I wish it were longer for greater forward float. The snubby nose allows the entire deck to tilt forward as you're planting your foot. As I was beginning I found I face planted more often in MSR's than other manufacturers. It's rare the spikes are useful (adds weight as well) and I never find them necessary. You'll need a phillips screwdriver to remove/install them in the field, but who wants to carry a phillips screwdriver just for one special purpose?! And if you drop a bolt in soft snow, you may loose it. And after removing your spikes more than several times the spikes are known to work loose. Call MSR, they'll admit to this 1-800-531-9531 option 3. There are two solutions for this 1) never take the spikes off (not much of a solution in my mind) 2) use permatex threadlocker (color blue #24200 is what I recommend but MSR recommends color red #27100, either way, your chances of removing them in the field now are slim to none and slim just left town.....). Besides their excess weight they hinder slightly when you're on a route with patchy snow or if you are required to cross some rocks. When walking across rocks those spikes interfere with delicate footing in dangerous ways. Sure, the manufacturers would yell at you to remove their 'shoes when walking across a little dirt or rock.... whatever. So, those Ascent have spikes, but they interfere with 'mixed' routes and I rarely see them useful. But there's another upgrade on the Ascent that the Classic does not have, a heel lifter. This option is excellent. For long steady incline slogging these heel lifters save the back two muscles on your calves as well as your upper legs rear muscle. They also help save your achilles tendon from fatiguing. The heel lifters are easily worth the additional $30 or $40 you'll pay to get the Ascents. Think about it. You need the additional 8" tails if you snowshoe midweek, snowshoe in fresh snow, snowshoe earlier than others on weekends, or snowshoe infrequently traveled routes. But if you rarely venture beyond classic winter lines on weekends after 7am then don't bother, the hoardes will have trampled a path to your goal. And the MSR with no tails are about the lightest 'shoes around! ATLAS ATLAS ATLAS ATLASAtlas has 2 technical series, the 10 series and the 12 series. They are identical except the 12 has a stiff binding with racheting buckles which might be superior for stiff plastic boots; otherwise the 10 series binding is preferable for its comfort with a wide range of footwear, the 12 series binding can cause hotspots even with 2.5mm leather boots. Atlas 10 series (1025 8"x22" or 1033 9"x27")The weight of these is similar to either MSR with added tails. They don't have removable tails, the MSR do. If you get the 1025 then good luck snowshoeing in new snow or in light snow, and if you're over 180lbs and are going overnight..... fuggetaboudit! You'll sink past your knees when breaking trail. If you get the 1033 then you're dragging extra weight on your feet when walking on consolidated spring snow and they're much less manueverable then shorter shoes. The MSR are the only brand that allow you to change the length/flotation. The lateral traction bars are about 6 inches long, the MSR are 13 inches. Longer bars give better control on traverses. Beneath the heel are 2 angled bars which might help prevent backsliding up steep ascents. MSR have 4 traction bars for superior traction uphill and downhill. The bindings don't compress flat so the shoes don't nest together well. When the shoes are strapped to your pack the bindings stick out and can snag on tree branches and rock features. The bindings are comfortable but much more difficult to adjust than the MSR bindings with gloves on. They do not have a heel lifter to reduce fatigue and excessive strain on the achilles tendon, calf muscles and thigh muscles. The MSR showshoes have a hee lifter. ADDITIONAL SNOWSHOE MANUFACTURERSOther snowshoe manufacturers that just don't make a technical 'shoe, they don't have lateral rails underfoot to keep you on course while traversing a slope: Tubbs,Sherpa, Crescent Moon, Yakima (interesting hybird in their Daytripper, they combine the more typical aluminum tubing for a frame then use a solid plastic decking, like MSR) Idea Guy.

......hmmmmm, been 2 days since anybody new signed up..... maybe i'm the last one in? put me on that master list, will, i might have an idea or two.....

MSR Pocket Rocket also uses other cannister fuels. Jim Nelson, owner of Pro Mtn Sports in U-District, assured me his $3.99 cannister (forget manufacturer, silver container, orange plastic cap) would be fine. I've used it 15 times and compared it to MSR cannister and experience no difference. Somebody got some tech reason MSR P.R. should not be used with other's cannisters?? I use 0.5ounce per hot meal, so this 7.8ounce cannister lasts me 8 to 10 days. new: zipka LED headlamp by petzl, 5.10 UFO shoes, patagonia silkweight capilene old: gerber scout multitool, boreal ace shoes, helly hansen polyoro LIFA mid 70's