willstrickland

Hey Man, Let me think on this for a while, I'm a southeasterner and I'll have to think through which former partners may still be in the area. The guidebook is by Thomas? Kelly, and it's a bit dated, but will keep you occupied for a long time. I'd imagine a new guide will be along in the next couple of years. Also keep me in mind as in all likelihood I'll be in grad school at NCSU (Raleigh) in about 18 months. In the summer, Hawksbill in awesome, and for slabby stuff Stone Mt is great. There is so much rock there, Whitesides is amazing...hard runout free stuff, and the "wall" routes on the north side of Looking Glass are no joke, there's some genuine hard and scary aid up there. Congrats and enjoy! WS

Musta been that Maple Leaf Indica...a tasty strain indeed!

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: Will- went to beacon for the first time last weekend. Did you lead seagull? Seagull was a calve pumper, the pro looked kinda thin. The locals said the routes were sandbags- I thought just the opposite(by lworth and index standards) I was following on that pitch, pro sucks until about 20' up, everything that looks promising from below is flared and bottoms out, my calves are still sore. I don't think the routes there are sandbags by any means, definitely not by Yosemite or Josh standards. Seemed about right-on to me. That's an odd assesment from the locals, because the only thing that would make Beacon routes seem stiff would be the extent of stemming technique required (especially on stuff like Seagull or Tennessee Walker)...something the locals should have in spades.

Easy solution to waiting around: Brush up on your German, French, or Italian. When you reach the "hold-up" party, just give 'em the 'ol "Vee chust rappell now, OK bye bye, see u later jaahh!"

Saturday: Climbed into a chair and took the GRE...for the second and last time, once three years ago for the my Master's program , this time for admission to a doctoral program. Sunday:Beacon Rock Blownout direct to Blownout Seagull Winter Delight or Spring somethingorother Last pitch of blownout is stellar...maybe 130' of crack in a dihedral with "save the best for last" finger crack through two bulges at the end. Seagull is the most calf and ass burning stemming pitch that I can ever remember climbing. About halfway up the pitch I felt like I'd been doing squats for an hour. That last climb...something with Spring in the name I believe, it was the easier of the two adjacent "season" climbs...anyway, a little out of character for Beacon, primarily edging with just a tad of stemming and jamming...fun pitch.

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: Will strickland: The Joshua Tree route you're talking about is "Buissonier." Definitely STIFF for 5.7 (like many JT routes).Kind of a barn-door sort of affair all the way up -- but the pro is definitely great, all the way. Steve Yeah, that's the one alright, not any hard pulling, but just awkward as hell. Everyone I saw on that thing while we were camped there took a LONG time leading it and it's only maybe 50 or 60'. I guess most of the J-tree routes went up in the winter when everyone was dialed from a summer in Yosemite, hence the solid ratings. Another route at Josh I felt was a little stiff was Blue Nubian, rated 10b I think. I was not psyched pulling the crux on the filthy, cheese grater tips crack. Almost pitched just to get out of the pain it was inflicting. It's probably right on for the grade when it's clean, but I don't think it had been climbed in a long time when I led it. (If you ever do this thing, take a 3.5 and 4 camalot to build an achor at the top) Hell, the Right Ski track on Intersection had an eye-opening bouldery sequence on it down low, probably not a sandbag, but there's definitely a better sequence than what I used. The worst 'bagging I've encountered is not from ratings, but from other climbers confusing lines or a topo showing a crux somewhere it isn't. Again at Josh, there's a 5.9 crack to a chimney on the back of the Old Woman, it's called Orphan or something like that. Topo shows the crux in the hand/finger crack. I cruised up the crack started up the chimney and soon found myself bagged, it didn't help that I managed to back-clip a cam at the crux and got to climb the crux, downclimb it, then climb it again all wondering when I was gonna grease out of the chimney. My first time at Broughton I had led several pitches and was looking to finish the day off with one more pitch. The girl I was there with suggested Classic crack. "It's easy 5.8" she said. I start up, get about halfway and begin wondering why the jams are so shallow and then I miss the face holds out left altogether. I get up the thing thinking, Damn! I'm outta shape big time, only to get to the ground and watch her crank the face holds, a quick guidebook consultation confirmed my suspicion - 5.9+ I guess we could all just do first ascents and get out of that problem.

Five pitches come to mind right away: Trial by Fire - 5.8 in the Church Bowl, Yosemite. A flared squeeze chimney with a hand-fist stack crack in the back. Felt like about 5.10 the day I was on it, but it was about 100 degrees too. Probably realistically it is 5.8 if you're tuned on valley chimneys and smeary stuff. A 5.7 Royal Robbins route at Josh right on the edge of the Hidden Valley CG, it's this weird right-angling crack over kinda near Mama/Papa Woolsey. Completely weird, terribly off-balance. CAlled Toe-Jam maybe? I can't remember. Pitch 3 of the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton. The infamous 5.9 offwidth sandbag. I'd say the face sequence when the crack pinches (before the real offwidthing starts) is probably 5.10 with the offwidth probably being 5.10 too. No problem though, just toss in that #4 Big-Bro and layback the whole damn section. Pitch 1 of the same (K-I) is rated like 5.4 or something, but it's a grunter squeeze chimney, feels a good bit harder. The 5.9 face pitch of Royal Arches (where the pendo is if you bypass the crux). Easily 5.10 in my opinion. Hey Pope-on-a-Rope hows about a thread on the biggest overrated routes?

Yeah Lammy, No secret that insurance is a racket, but when you look at where the difference in money from what the client pays to what the guide makes there is a big discrepancy. It's all for "overhead" of course, and by eliminating as much of that overhead as possible, one can maximize profits. Let's do a little example as an exercise. Take a typical glacier climb/class...a Baker ascent. Figure four days for instruction and ascent/descent. With a client to guide ratio of 3:1, at $200 per client per day that's $800 income per guide. Gear use will vary, and assuming that clients provide their own or pay rental fees on top of the course fee, there is no gear overhead (naturally the rental prices cover not only the wear and tear on the actual gear rented, but also the community gear like ropes, pickets, etc). Food may be provided and may not, we'll assume it is and by buying in bulk it will run a total of $4 per person per day. That's $64 in food including the guide and the clients assigned to him/her. Permitting fees may add up to $50 (or nothing at all depeding on the locale), and insurance another $50 (a high estimate for one course of a year-round operation with multiple groups out at any one time). Add another $50 for transportation and $10 for guide's continuing education. $5 for printed materials for the clients, and $3 per client for "souvenirs" such as a mug. The total expense runs $241 per guide. The total income is $800 (this again is a conservative estimate). Difference is $559, the guides are probably only getting paid $70/day for a total of $280. That leaves $279 per guide per course that is being eaten up in "overhead". Even picking up the expenses, the guide could almost double their wage by working independently. Of course marketing and such will be a cost, but with the things you probably already have...phone, computer, this can be accomplished for little more than time. This is just my opinion from doing exactly this thing...guiding independently. Work half as much or make twice as much, set your own schedule and agenda, follow your own rules. It requires motivation, entrepreneurial drive, and perseverence though, something not everyone is equipped with.

I'll bring my old 60m (it may be cut into 2 30m already, my way of making sure I don't keep climbing on it), as well as a guitar and pickin' skills...bring on the jam! I can also supply a Coleman 2-burner....all this is of course contingent on me finding a ride to these festivities

quote: Originally posted by farmer1: Your financial figures for your Baker climb do not show nearly all the cost associated with running a company. . First, let me say I accept all your criticism of my numbers...these are of course all off the top of my head. Second, my numbers do not show all the costs associated with running a company because THAT IS THE ENTIRE POINT. It's those costs that eat up the money and leave the guides making peanuts. I included costs that I feel an independent guide would still need to cover. If you have some real insight that you have time to share, please e-mail me privately (address below) I'd honestly like to know your thoughts. Still, I don't think it would be very difficult for a guide making $70/day to double their pay rate even after sucking up all the associated costs. Hell, my numbers for what the clients are charged is probably low too, I know that in Yosemite the rates are much higher and the client/guide ratio is higer as well. willstrickland@hotmail.com And Cavey, dude if you're bored get back to work, what's Gates payin you for anyway?

quote: Originally posted by PackOnMyBack: As an employee of Mountain Madness I am more than aware of what is happening here. by local guide service standards we pay more than fair. So, if you choose to spray please at least get your facts correct. You see my friend, the key words here are "by local guide service standards". If you choose to be exploited, and yes it is a choice, that's your business. I don't know what MM pays you daily, but I'd wager that it is in the $100/day or less range if you have less than three years with them. Guiding is rewarding, and money is not all that important...BUT, with a little entreprenuerial energy you could easily double your wage and gain a modicum of control over your schedule, working conditions, etc. Guiding is not lucrative FOR THE GUIDES, but you can bet your ass someone at the top is making loot, especially in an established business like RMI, MM, etc. If the guiding profession were unionized, you can bet your wage would be at least 50% higher. I don't believe I am spreading any "rumours", only expressing opinion and conjecture. It's no secret that outdoor professionals in general are underpaid. This is partly due to the high turnover rates, but it is also partly due to the competition for jobs due to the "ideal of life as a mountain guide" as opposed to the reality of such a life. Anyone who has guided for a living can quickly dispell this fantasy, but for a young buck (or doe) the attraction is undeniable...climb everyday, live outdoors, work in a field you love, advance your employability, boost your ego, swoon the opposite sex... So, you don't have people leaving, but I doubt the muttering about such came from nothing, care to enlighten us as to what's going on rather than crying about people spreading rumours?

Maybe they had the revelation that "Hey, why the fuck am I risking my life and sacrficing my knees for $60/day. I can beat this game now and guide on my own, make $200 per client per day, set my own regulations, guide different routes and peaks, etc, etc"

So we've all probably seen the "Quotable Climber" or whatever that book is, but how about some you've seen elsewhere? I'll get it started with these: The air thin and pure,danger near, and the spirit full of a joyful wickedness: these things go well together. - Nietzsche, Thus Spoke Zarathustra Part 1 One must be accustomed to living on mountains - to seeing the wretched ephemeral chatter of politics and national egoism beneath one. - Nietzsche, The Antichrist He who climbs upon the highest mountain laughs at all tragedies, real or imaginary - Nietzsche, Thus spoke Zarathustra, Part 1

Here's how to properly place a bolt: Take the bolt, bend over, shove it up your ass! (Just kidding folks, let's not turn this into a shitstorm) If you really want to know for anchors, wall routes, emergency, whatever, investigate the resources of the ASCA (Chris MacNamara's American Safe Climbing Association or something like that) they replace alot of bolts and will give you the poop on how to properly do the job. It will vary alot depending on the rock type, bolt type, intended use of the bolt, etc.

Anyone wanna hook up? I'm in Portland, please be a 5.10 trad leader with your own rack (to compliment mine). e-mail willstrickland@hotmail.com

Went bushwacking in the HNF seeking possible 1st ascents / new crag. After thrashing through nasty Devil's Club for too long, realized we could have been on an old logging path instead. Reached the crag, scoped about half the cliff line and not particularly encouraged by the looks of anything, picked a line. Ended up being 2 pitches, 5.8+ 1st pitch, 5.easy 2nd pitch with a clean offwidth line that should have been the second pitch instead of the line I climbed.Having left the 4.5 and 5 camalot in the truck I opted out of leading the 30ft of no-pro 5.9/5.10 vertical offwidth splitter. It looked great though, about a 5" to 9" crack on a clean, smooth wall. There were tons of loose blocks and lichen,moss,dirt but with alot of cleaning and trundling, the crag has potential, not sure how good, but definitely potential to yield alot of easy lines.

Climber Rescued in Joshua Tree August 27, 2001 Last Sunday (August 19th) a 19-year-old man was rescued in Joshua Tree National Park by park rangers after becoming stuck on a ledge in the Indian Cove area of the popular California park. Rangers found Peter Becker, a United States Marine (stationed at Twentynine Palms Marine Corps base in California) stranded approximately 30 feet above the ground on the north face of Vanishing Wall. Becker had been rappelling with friends when he lost control of his descent. He attempted to slow his fall by grabbing the rope with his ungloved hands and consequently suffered severe burns and skin loss to both hands. Rangers climbed to the top of the formation, lowered a rescuer to Becker, attached him to a rescue system, and lowered him to the ground. According to the National Park Service, temperatures exceeded 105 degrees during the rescue.

It seems that I always do way better with the female types after a big climb or big trip. Something about that kind of experience puts a radiance to you that is quite attractive. After four days of life and death matters on a wall climb, a shower and a couple of brews, swooning the ladies should feel like a gimme pitch of fourth class. High on life indeed, and a fat nug never hurt either.

I just wrote letters to the two chairs of Interior Appropriations (House and Senate) Sen Byrd and Rep Skeen asking them to eliminate the fee demo program and stating my opposition and reasoning. WHAT HAVE YOU DONE?

Ok, some (probably) useful tips: 1. Kansas allows camping/sleeping in their rest areas. 2. Kansas has a "state fishing lake" in every county, most have free camping. The Kiowa State fishing lake definitely has free camping 3. Drive into national parks after the fee booths are closed for the day and drive out before they open. 4. Wal Mart (the evil global bastards that they are) allows vehicle camping in their parking lots. This is especially useful for town stays in big cities. 5. If you have good brakes and are very alert, draft like you were in a NASCAR race. I once made 40mpg over 200 miles (normally got about 17)in a VW bus during heavy winds in the plains while drafting a semi. I have friends who got close to 70mpg in a civic with a rocket box coming back to GA from Hueco by drafting cars the entire way. 6. Three words: Early bird specials. Lots of mom-n-pop and trucker type restaurants have some form of early breakfast specials. 7. Keep your insulated mug handy, coffee/soda is usually cheaper when you provide your own mug. 8. Oregon and a few other states (TN? LA?) have no sales tax, take advantage. 9. Look in the yellow pages under grocers and find a bulk, closeout, or outlet grocery. Selection can be fickle, but the prices are right. Also, the big "buyers club" stores have swinging deals on lots of staples, just have to buy a 86 packs of oatmeal at a time. The bulk food bins in stores like Winco are a great deal. 10. Organic farms can usually use some short-term help and are usually run by some kind folks. Try bargaining some work for food, this has always worked for me. 11. City driving, epsecially in an unknown city where you're making wrong turns everywhere drinks gas like crazy, instead get on your bike and run your town errands. You'll find it easier to get directions from pedestrians, you'll meet nmore people, and most importantly you won't burn up that $2/gallon gas. 12. Poach showers at state parks, health clubs (ask for the tour of facilities), or commercial campgrounds. Ride your bike into the area (makes you inconspicous in campgrounds since it looks like you're already staying there and accounts for your pack and sweat/filth at the health clubs). There are plenty more, but I have to work now

Stay awake? Easy, chocolate covered espresso beans. The caffeine buzz, and no fluids to eliminate. Those ephedrine laced "white cross" trucker pills work well. A natural alternative to the trucker pills is "green mormon tea" and "silver mormon tea". This plant grows in the desert southwest and is a small shrub with no real leaves, but bright green or grayish "twigs" that contain a compund much like ephedra. It grows rampant in the four corners area. You can chew seom twigs for a while (pretty bitter after a minute or two) or actually brew it into tea. We experimented with boiling it and brewing it down into a gooey paste...not a good idea when concentrations vary from plant to plant so you never know the "correct" dosage...kinda like shrooms Best way to stay awake though has to be to get sufficient sleep in the first place. I hate getting to a new area after a long multi-day drive and climbing like shit for the next two days while I recover from the drive.

quote: Originally posted by haireball: I was somewhat tongue-tied & awestruck that evening to find myself swapping yarns at Gustav's with Mr. Chris Bonington!!! Now that's a proper legend!

I've done the living out of a VW Van: Unreliable, no power, shitty gas mileage but comfortable I;'ve done the living out of a 4x4 truck/canopy: Reliable, multi-use, enough power, shitty gas mileage, not too comfortable: I've done a long road trip in a Suby wagon: Runs forever, pretty good mileage, 4wd is a plus on snowy roads, sucks to sleep in. Best compromise? Domestic full sized van. You can find them with 4x4 but don't need it, the clearance will be about the same and a come-a-long or winch can pull you out of any nasty spots. Parts are cheap and easy to get. Gas milage still sucks, but no worse than any truck. Living is way comfy, no getting out in the rain to pitch a tent or climb in the back. No storing stuff outside to have enough room to sleep inside. Best alternate? The VW wasserboxer to Subaru Legacy 2.1 engine conversion in a 83 1/2 to 91 Vanagon Westy. Basically the power and reliability of a suby with the pimp-style living accoutrements of the Westfalia. If I still had my Westy I'd do the engine swap in a minute and be living large. If you're looking to live on the road full time, the best thing I've seen going is the Toyota 2 wheel drive based RV's. Enough power and good reliability from the Toyota V6, and lots of room, gas mileage about the same as a big V8 in a van.

quote: Originally posted by gearbot: Has anyone else out there read some of the books listed in the reference section of “Extreme Alpinism”? I actually read a few of them before the Twight book. Tales of Power (and the rest of the Casteneda books, Separate Reality, Lessons of Don Juan, Journey to Ixtalan). Climbing Ice by Chouinard, Freedom of the Hills (of course), The Zone, Climbing Anchors, Choose your best sport and Play it, The Seventh Grade. I also took the Keirsey temperament test....said I was an 'onery and crusty spray lord (actually, it spec'ed me as an NT or Rational) BTW, who was the author of "Bone Games"?

This thread is pretty funny, 'cause it reveals how localized the "legends" are. I'll bet most of you guys and gals have never heard of Shannon Stegg, Rob Robinson, Doc Bayne, Travis Eiseman....all "legends" in the southeast. All were putting up 5.12 ground-up trad routes in the 80's. Anyone wanting the full-on "legend experience" need only to spend a few weeks in Camp4. When they don't need first names, they must be legends right? Dean, Steph, Leo, Chongo, Cedar, Werner, Dan and Sue, Lynn, Ron, the Frosts, Mac, the Bird, all in a two week period.