Sargent_Rock

This is both a serious and interesting question. I have heard that Hepatitis C will stay infectious in spilled blood for up to a week.

Sheezix: I know a bit about those rocks along the Kettle River, and would be happy to share my knowledge. Send me a PM.

Yes, nature! "I love to go a wondering..." For those of you who are interested, we've seen a couple of rattlesnakes yesterday.

Great trip report and photos. Skaha is such a fun place to climb! I do believe the poison ivy is "out" (I've got the typical rash), and rattlesnakes will be any day now.

Precisely my point, Bill. John belongs on a rather short list of climbers.

Make your jokes and have fun kidding, but tell who has had as much of an influence on modern rock climbing, and where the sport is today? I wish I could be there.

You know, climbers have (for the most part) "always" been a noisy and obnoxious group. From the Vulgarians of the 60's to the current punks, climbing has a rich and colorful history of unrestrained howling behavior in the wildness of the open space. Although many of us would prefer our camping to be as silent as the stars, there will always be those for whom the campfire and fresh air will cause yelling. The only creative solution I have to offer is: wear ear plugs and drink a lot before going to bed.

If my memory is correct (which is not always the case at my age) the crux was an off-width. I remember a number four camalot and a tied-off chockstone for protection. A Big Bro should work somewhere along the crack. I do remember being quite happy to be alive after the climb!

I would stay away from the rotten block (for a bivy). It could be rather windy, uncomfortable, and (one of these days)it's going to peel off the wall. I agree with DonnV: a couple of pitches above the "Triangle Ledge" and you've got all the room in the world to bivi (large sandy ledges with summit views). I have just looked down on the ledge between the 7-8 pitch. It looks big enough and you might be able to back the bolts up with wide gear. I have to wonder if the 1st ascent team didn't back the bolt up with pitons.

Nalo: I think the best ledge would be the "Triangle Ledge" at the end of the 10th pitch. Comfortable with a good celestial view. I would stay away from the rappel/7-8th pitch bivi: 1/4 inch bolts(last time I saw them) and a jumar in the morning to get back on route.

Rock crystals can heal Seen it on moon lit rappels Quiet, like a hand hold

Fall and winter argue Over coloring the rocks Snow wins, the sun waits

Interesting...Is it just me, or have trailhead break ins seem to have increased with the requirement for trailhead parking permits?

I truely believe "the crux on liberty crack" is getting out of your sleeping bag at 04:00 AM and taking that first step upward.

Just heard of an accident on Mtn Silver Star. A climber had to be air-lifted off. Anyone else know anything?? Sarg

PhilNC: Where in the "West" are you heading? How much time do you have to spend? Do you want to see a lot of areas, or get to know a few areas very well? When (what season) are you going to be road tripping? What are your climbing goals? Is being high in the mountains more important than pulling down on solid rock? Answer these questions, and I'll bet the crew at this web site can come up with a very good plan for your visit. Sarg

I've used the overhand knot (also called the Euro Death knot) for years and I'm still alive. I agree it is "spooky" and took some getting used to. Sarg

Catbirdseat: I agree with Szyjakowski that there are some real access problems (and where to park problems) with the crags near Oroville. If you come over here again, send me a PM and I'll try to help. I disagree with Szyjakowski about rednecks and guns. I believe you'll find more rednecks and guns in Shoreline than in the entire Okanogan Valley.

First to response to Off_White: The dome across from the boat launch (called The Lake Wall, aka Eagle Rock) is on tribal land, but the parking and hiking access is on privately controlled land. At this time the owner doesn't want anyone using his land for parking and/or hiking. The tribes'position is a bit more complex and unclear. The most prudent behavior would be to stay off of tribal land until agreements and understandings can be reached. To answer Stefan's question, the roots of this problem stretch back to a "bolt war" during the 90's. The current closure is in response to perceived "rude" behavior from a group of climbers.

It is with great sadness that I pass on some current access news. At this point in time the rock climbing area know as the "Omak Rocks" including the crags commonly called "The Hide-Out" and "Reservation Rock" are closed to climbing, hiking or trespassing. Although there are other rocks and crags in this general area that belong to other owners, walking or hiking access to the cliffs is now in question. Local climbers are working towards improving communication and understanding with private landowners, tribal trust landowners, and the tribe in general. At this time all climbers are encouraged to respect the rights and requests of the various landowners.

"Why can't we all just go climbing"

Matt: I have to agree. I've done that route so many times because I'll have a pardner who just has to do that route. I know at least one other route at the Pass that is perhaps a better outing (a way less crowded). I wonder if Roper and Steck regret how they have funneled traffic to certain routes?

Matt: I've climbed it seven times and have to agree it's good climbing and super fun. The slab pitch above the "death block" is one of my favorite pitches, ever. Perhaps the rock in Darington is higher quality, but Liberty Crack is a very classic climb.

Peter: I think this is a great idea. After all, for many of us: "snow is a dirty word, and ice only belongs in mixed drinks." Sarg

Certainly well worth the long walk. Sarg