slothrop

See #5 in my list above.

Damn. I want 8 weeks of vacation... - lead some water ice - learn to tele turn in the pow-pow - climb Dragontail - multipitch aid climbing, use some hooks - not go broke

Gloves sold, but I've still got the Ice Clipper (just a buck + shipping!). C'mon, someone needs this thing. Good for racking screws. I've already got two.

Iain, is your avatar a white tiger scratching a record, or have the prions started their dirty work on my brain?

I think you're the only one around here who would know this, catbird.

Ditto. I only wear my windstopper gloves for biking on days like today, as they never dry out when wet. You could buy my Dry Tool gloves and wear them with liners for winter climbing. They're nicely dexterous, just too small for my long skinny hands. You could rappel with 'em, too -- they've got nice leather palms.

I used one of my prusiks as a piece of pro once by jamming the knot into a crack, a la that German guy.

Random items: BD Ice Clipper, brand new - $1 BD Dry Tool gloves, size L, older version (excellent shape) - $20 I live in Seattle. Send email or PM if interested.

I bought those Cassin crampons and don't like 'em much. They come with anti-bot plates, but those don't attach securely in the front. The screw that lets you adjust the length requires another tool (you can't just use one of the strap rings like on my Charlets). I haven't had major problems with their performance, though. I used them for easy glacier approaches this past summer.

I agree that the browser bar thingy in the upper right corner is needless duplication. If the only purpose of the frameset is to make it easier to print something without the nav elements or ads, then why not replace the frameset idea with a print button that loads a printer-friendly version of a page, without the extra stuff? The days are past when repeatedly loading navigation elements should slow down your server or your clients. If you're really worried about it, just change as much of the navigation stuff you can into images so that clients can cache them. You have some broken <A> tags that change under a mouseover even though they're not links. For example, all the checkbox labels in the Search box flash orange even though they don't link to anywhere. The fonts are unreadably small in my browser. Oh, and clicking Greenland took me to the Canada section of the guide. Overall, the site's a good idea. Nice work.

Soccer once a week, biking, yoga, running. My current winter training regime adds snowshoeing, sitting deskbound doing work (builds endurance and mental fortitude), and pulling plastic.

Good to see Herbert getting out in the hillz.

eric8 did the FNA of the HUB Auditorium stage.

Allison, you have no clue. When you are accepted to a PhD program at the UW, you may commence whining on the subject. If your job doesn't pay you to travel, like millions of others in the US, get another one, preferably one that keeps you away from a computer so you can't spray your bullshit on cc.com. Thanks to Gary for taking the time to put together this show, it was great fun!

Sizes?

Jennifer Love Hewitt gave me a smooch on the cheek as my grandpa picked me up from school one day. He teased me for months. We were in second grade, at which point in her career she was already wearing makeup. She didn't look like this yet, though: Oh, and Scot'teryx gave me a belay test at Cascade Crags.

A consumer group did a survey of glucosamine/chondroitin products sold in places like GNC and found that many formulations did not contain the advertised amounts of the active ingredients. Perhaps the FDA doesn't check up on such products if they're sold as "supplements". I'd do some research before rushing out to Costco or whatever and picking up a 55-gallon drum of the cheap brand.

I backed off Blockbuster the first time I tried it... it's so awkward. Only two moves, but I shredded my arms with "offwidth technique". My second liebacked the stupid thing. Is it just me, or is the rightmost crack on the north side of the big tower of the UW rock a lot like BOC?

My personal favorite. On a hard lead, I make it sound way harder than it is by cursing voluminously. Helps to focus, though.

So your ethics are "ala locke" and "Moses", eh? Based on some vague notion of improving yourself and the rest of the world? I wanna see them stone tablets, man! Where's MtnGoat when you need him? I think I'm done with this thread. Have fun!

I'll be falling off the V0s, too! I'm hoping to win a sick beanie or 5-gallon jug of chalk from the freebiez giveaway.

You can admit when you've transgressed against your own ethics? How do I know you're not lying? Do you expect to be punished by others when you break a personal commandment? If not, what is the use of your ethics to anyone but yourself? How do I know your ethics don't change? You say they're set in stone, so where are the tablets? Is that the third edition, the large print edition, the translation to Swahili? You are arguing for absolute ethics set in stone. Who set them there? Why are they the right ones? If someone, long ago, decided that this is Right and that is Wrong, how come you can't call their decisions situational ethics? These "books" that you suggest everyone read to bone up on Truth, how come they're better than you and me? You've got a hard row to hoe here, man.

What direct rappel are you referring to? From what anchor? I wasn't blaming the crack for anything. I think GNS is popular for its good climbing, ease of access, sunny location, proximity to Seattle, and moderate grade. That's a pretty good combination. When I first climbed GNS, I was not expecting the mondo bolt anchor atop the twin cracks. The existence of the bolts didn't convince me that the climb was worth doing. It's a well-established crag, so I guess I did expect rap anchors of some kind, but I don't care what kind of anchors they are (bolts, slings, pig head wedged in a crack, etc.) as long as I can rap from them. I think we discussed this in another thread: if you can place gear, you can set a gear belay.

That anchor on GNS is a mess, sure. There's no reason not to set a gear anchor there or continue up to the tree or to the top of the slab (rope drag notwithstanding). But that anchor is nice for rappelling, and two bolts w/chains are less obtrusive than a nest of webbing around a tree.

I can't imagine that the only thing keeping the newbies from running screaming from the fine climbing on the GNS is the security of those two giant bolts (which were not placed by climbers and never intended for climbing use, I would suppose). Would you go to the gym instead of climbing outside if you had the choice? I like the cracks at Stone Gardens, but not that much. On the subject of top-roping: Leaving aside the fact that not all sport climbs, even single pitches, can be set with top-rope anchors by walking to the top or even rappelling, why is leading on bolts more popular than top-roping those same climbs? Perhaps the overhanging nature of some sport crags has influenced the preference of bolted leading vs. top-roping. It's a pain in the ass to TR something if a fall sends you ten feet out from the wall.