Cpt.Caveman

Probably because often the conditions, trail, road, forest service reports-enforcement-whatever, national park info etc, and such are changeable for alpine climbing. Often some or even all of these rarely change for rock climbing or the information is so well known that it's not worth as much time. I'm sure many people are rock climbing. IF they have new routes they may not feel compelled to report them except to guidebook authors. I can imagine the ratings, bolt, and other wars-spray encumbered in rock climbing reports. Although it doesnt always happen...

I think fishneck is just trying to keep all the yanks away

I hope they are getting good weather. My guess the ban has a clause for people like them. Unless the fire melts the ice cap then I bet they will be safe.

Cool - now I know where to score the greens and take a bivy at beyotch.

minx and I have both agreed we are talking about different locations. From her description it sounds like there is a better parking area than the one I used. Whatever though. It's not like I have any reason to park there again unless I want to go skiing this winter.

I pour coos coos on the glacier to keep it from dehydrating and causing it to recede below the firn zone.

Bastards!!! I was making some plans those fucks!!

Keep your band camp stories to yourself. We dont want to hear about your kinky hot sauce stories.

Tobasco is weaker like you.

If you rap you might be more inclined to ask if your rope is touching the ground. If you are lowered then you might get lowered off the end of the roped and get owies.

I think he's just upset he cannot convince erik to carry a water filter.

This stuff kicks ass! Anyone that opposes should be tortured by 15 squirts of this onto their eyeballs an hour for 3 weeks. Discuss- http://store3.yimg.com/I/tayabas_1755_27272931

Well then I believe your description is misleading and we are not talking about the same area.

Right, so that one liter of water you are carrying weighs two pounds. Suppose you are doing Triumph. Chug water at the TH. Don't carry any. Filter a liter at First Thorton Lake and chug. Don't carry any. Filter at top of col... With iodine, you'd be hiking up to the col while waiting for your water to purify. Gary that's a lot of supposing. I'm not that stupid. I guess you dont get my comments. Thats ok.

I was referring to the last pitch, which would be the fourth pitch if you count the scramble third pitch, which I don't. Let's get techno- It's all one pitch.

Get the dehydrator. Coos Coos is ok for glacier hydrations. It wont do the real trick. Instant Mashed taters, pancakes, pastas, and horsecock and cheese work well. Dont forget some salty crackers like fish thingys (whatever brand) and shit.

I can anticipate when I need to carry water. 9 times out of ten on a trail you only need one water bottle. Yes water is frequent on most trails. That means I can fill up at the trailhead and calculate when I need it simply. Ive been doing it for a long time and never had to carry more than one liter unless on a grade IV climb. Otherwise it's usually been pointless. As far as taste goes I dont have a problem with iodine water. If I am truly thirsty it's going to taste good.

http://www.traditionalmountaineering.org/News_Beckey.htm Beckey rarely still climbs in the North Cascades, now riddled with roads, trails and regulations. He prefers Canada: "A lot more freedom. You don't have all these rangers doing all these stupid campground checks." Campground checks = harassment by the forest service. I understand there is a difference between harassment and doing your job. Larry the tool and the Forest service head of the Leavenworth Ranger disctrict read it people. If you doubt my definition or comparison then just ask the alpine buddy of this century and last century himself.

Would like to climb an easier alpine and or scamble routes. Ideas: WR of Forbidden -Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Eldorado standard route -Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Snowking Mountain - Nothing more than a ski pole needed. Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Mount Thompson- the 5.6 route. Colchuck Peak - Colchuck Glacier route. Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Snowfield Peak - Standard route. Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Expect some offroad - a little harder travel. Mount Torment south ridge or whatever- Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Sahale - Quien Sabe or Arm. Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area. Mixup Peak - Easiest route. Leave Friday night camp at trailhead area.

That's not good info as I interpret it. Reason is that if you park in the open bend there are towing signs. The best parking is probably just west of the first bridge on the north side of the main road while nearly below the peak... No signs no troubles (yet). Less likely to interfere with private parking, lands or making an impact like one might by parking in the "living or vacation properties". Then you can walk up the road to where it bends and within 100 feet be in the scree and boulders.

I am hoping I can take advantage of the next post offering for free gear.

Some many people know notes: It's all clearity when you shoot at infinity and choose small aperture (I think it's the landscape mode). With a camera like such you have less manual options and it makes it easier to get a good simple shot. But when using film\slides on a manual equipped camera you can really do magic. I have another high quality film camera and the light meter lies (as with most cameras) when in the snow quite often. Use a polarizer if necessary on a good camera when you have a Through the lense meter. If not then guess and waste a lot more money on film, but if you shoot enough you'll usually get the desired photo... But with a digital you can use the setting desired and then aim at the sky or another non snow object for instance and then immediately back down to the subject before the camera does it's bad correction and get the shot. Just hit the autofocus then re-aim away and then back quickly to get best shot. It's definitely not much of an art form with a do it all for you camera. It can and cannot be an art form with a real camera sometimes. Usually the results from a film camera turn out better in my experiences. Most digital SLRs are pretty good IMHO. Ive used one of my buds and was impressed but my film camera still produces better images..... It's like debating a cam and bomber nut placement....

A standard rack could be- For a winter climb around here with snow ice and rock: 3-4 knife blades 1-2 lost arrows 1 Baby angle blue, orange and yellow tcus green and baby blue metolius cams 6-8 24 inch slings 10-18 carabiners 6-12 chocks For a summer rock climb or mountain it could be: blue, orange and yellow tcus green and baby blue metolius cams 6-10 24 inch slings 10-18 carabiners 6-12 chocks For a snow slog with some potential for low angle ice: 4-8 slings 24 inchers one picket 2 ice screws 1-2 knife blades For a cool route at Peshastin Pinnacles: air voyagers 1-4 crash pads An ambulance in the parking lot (optional) a cell phone (optional)

Go do the sulphide glacier route. There's plenty of bivy room and it should be in perfect scrambling shape right now. Probably one of my favorite mountains. If you dont want to spend the night - you can go at a mellow pace with small packs at about 12-15 hours round trip. That's mellow pace I am sure.

...and the answer to my original "know-it-all sh*thead 'tude question, thanks. Yes you were being a shithead. Weather you choose to acknowledge is up to you. Fucking duck when we meet. I suspect it will be soon.