Cpt.Caveman

Yeah a one day is a little of a suffering test for sure. Two cars is key if you went up and over. That Cascadian is a beyotch!

I think if the glacier was impassable it would be your only choice for sure. Therefore the info is and should be available for us if we choose to climb it. Right now you can simply walk past it though. Like I mentioned before: Considering it a large mountain myself I think it would be a little contrived to do these pitches under its current conditions. But if you are not in a hurry and want more climbing then it is there for you. Some might say it might be better style to add these but personally I dont care. I guess it is up to the team.

Cocaine Connection was bad a few years ago. Dont know now. Old Grey Mare Slab climbs on Peshastin's Grand Central Tower Top anchors on Frenchman's Twin Cracks aka Party in your pants Fuck I cant think now! Arg [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-18-2001).]

And Erik comes out of the woodwork!

Nice work TimL! Wow that must have been fun! Did you go with Bruce!?

Walter I agree studying or scouting the approach would be a good idea. Although I recently did it (approach and it was raining) and we only spent 15 minutes looking for the path through the wooded area just past the bog. Altimeters are useful sometimes Nowadays someone even marked much of it past there with orange tape. Voila! Dont you mean the Sherpa Argonaut Col? Still I think with that harder approach Daler and Lammybone did a great job. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-17-2001).]

You guys humor me. I never did the route so I really dont know squat about it. I do however find it hard to imagine that if I did go up there to climb it that I would find that many pitches. Unless I got off route or conditions were wacky. Whatever I am just spraying anyway and I love it. If you climb it in 23 pitches or 3 have a good time doing it!

I think this is a good topic and everyone should return some interesting thoughts as well as those pesky "time bombs" I'll wait until I have a chance to think more before I respond too quick.

Brukb, What's with the charlie mike shit I'll have you doing flutter kicks until you die ranger! Andy Bourne, I actually find some of your remarks quite instulting :"The way I look at it, they are just losers who sit around all day long, waiting to pick and prod at someone. Pathetically, this site is their life. Don't even bother to acknowledge it." I am not prodding at anything. I just like to make jokes and if you dont like it too bad. Go cry to your mommy!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Rafael how many pitches did you and caveman do on slesse? 6? or 177? Actually I guess around 5 or so.

A trick to be remembered in infamy!

Good because I plan on running for public office soon and I dont want to blemish my perfect reputation as a respectful gentleman.

Hey Drul what are those peaks to the ?west? I think it was of Slesse. They sit just across from the descent. I can imagine bushwacking your way up one of those!

http://mysmilies.com/as/otn-funny/1.shtml

Brukb, Although most of the time I try to repsect what others write here sometimes I cannot resist the BS. Mellow out. Worthwhile reading is kind of a vague description. Indeed if someone sees your posting they will most likely reply with your info request.... What you might call worthwhile reading I might call boring. Later and good luck on the 25 pitch mega climb on Baker

I like to boulder. Although I prefer a rope sometimes too. Bouldering is such a stoner sport. You dont have to hang in an uncomfortable harness if you fall. You dont have to bother with all the gear. You dont have to set belays at uncomfortable stances. You can drink beer and boulder without any fear of death because you choose your limit. It is more social than climbing because you can BS with your friends and learn from them.

I concur with Drew for the most part. I use a Lafuma 42 but it is 2 lbs 7oz. Fill us in Ade!

I left my disposable on top of Slesse. If you find it I would like it back. 10$ reward!

quote: Originally posted by Bonzo: Crazyjz is nasty and no doubt trailer trash; however he lives in a double-wide and has a good set of morals. Kitty on the other hand suddenly dumped her husband and young child to hang out with her new boyfriend. You be the judge. Now the debate is on who is the bigger slut not Crazyjz. This subject has a lot more merit than 90% of the BS on this web site I recently met crazyjz and have to side with Bonzo. Scottp who cares what he was toproping. Just cause she spreads it for all her male partners. Fuck I would get to be a fantastic climber if I had no life and was surrounded by maniacs crankin 5.12 BTW I saw a video with her in it and she is about as annoying and boring as Bobbi Bensman.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: 23 pitches??????? On the Coleman Headwall??? Maybe with a 50 foot rope? Yeah I think Will Gadd is out to repeat it with a possible M12 Chossed up variation with 25 foot ropes [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-17-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Congrats Cavey. Slesse was looking good - I was up Grant on Sat. and McGuire on Sunday. Some questions- 1) 1 day or two? 2) West side or east side descent? 3) Booty? 4) Bypass or direct start? 5) Beckey Ramps or crest direct? We summited in one day. Then went down and bivied on the way. Descent a whole other story! We could not find one so we bushwacked down via the Borbon express army training. ~7hrs to trailhead and then the bike ride wasted me. No booty but Raf tried to retrieve one cam low on the route. Bypass. Direct looked pretty contrived at this point No Beckey ramp shit. But I am not sure if we did the exact shit either. We did go up some overhanging 5.9 climbing but it was not finger cracks. More like choss but pretty hard...

Sounds like you guys who did the full ridge did not approach via mtnrs creek. The Beckey description is to the t on this. There would be no snow to reach the east side of the lower ridge (not sure about the west) and the approach would be way less strenuous from there Great job on a quick time guys. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-17-2001).]

Rafael and I had a killer time on Slesse. The pocket glacier is tiny and is still a definite threat though. About 40 minutes after we passed under it shit was coming off all over. The rock is not as good as Stuart but the climbing is super exposed and still enjoyable. Study your descent and or bring a map. -Cpt [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-17-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: When one of those good holds comes off in your hand, put it in your pocket and save it - you might find you need it later on. Yeah take it down to Deception Crags and some of the route bolters might want to glue it on to one of the routes there!

Drul I put in some Hieroglyphics for us to gawk at next time I go