Cpt.Caveman

Charlie we hear your message and I think it is clear what you are getting at. I pretty much agree with some of the climbs already noted. Especially Smoot calling Damnation 5.8 whew that is not right! But there is some wisdom behind this posting by Peter too since there are several authors.. I dont think they collaborate much. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-01-2001).]

Fuckin a dude! I bet it was the dude above man. I look forward to hearing the outcome David! Thanks for the Guiness.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: If you think there is a problem with a rating, posting here is great but writing the guidebook author in a constructive manner might be even better! By the way how do you contact Fred ? I want to tell him I think some of his approaches are off as well as scramble ratings

I pretty much agree with Peter here. Many of the overinflated areas are at the North Bend crags and do come up elsewhere. I found a lot of the ratings are pretty close at Lworth and Index as well as Tieton since they match Yosemite.

On that note after reading what Jens had to say about Carnival Crack it might be one in contention? Smoot calls it 10c... Maybe they don't know because they (authors) simply have not climbed them is what I might guess. Viktor I would like to see a topo of where Bird's Nest Overhang is. I mean it is an original line and all. Somebody told me it was good too. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-01-2001).]

Goat, I did it with a friend this spring. I remember he had done it before saying he had only rock shoes to descend many years back and vowed not to do that again. Wow must have been epic. I remember going down the steep snow in late spring and it was usefull to have crampons since they were light. I dont know the current conditions but only assume that they would be steeper and icier now. Since the climbing is mostly easy and all I dont think that carrying that extra weight would hinder you by any means at all.

quote: Originally posted by max: I worked on a ranger dist on the wenatchee and had the ... pleasure of working with Mr. Inthout several times. He's a jerk, and it's too bad he's in law enforcement. I've heard stories from within the FS that don't paint a pretty picture of him. Too bad he's not stuck in some soils lab titrating deer crap till he's blue in the face! You see Max registering a complaint because you received a citation may not go over well. Reason I think is that they (FS) might consider you just an angry person that was caught in the act of a violation of the law. I would suspect that this being the initial assumption that nothing would be done. Is there another way to voice your opinions or any better ideas on how to approach this dude. I agree that he was belligerent and abrasive as I have noted from last season's post I had on this same subject. In that post I warned about parking a distance away and gave similar details to David's above.

Also keep in mind when ascending some of those areas that have been hit by fire recently. There could be more trees down and thus will slow you considerably.

Oh and one more thing: If you park your vehicle 1/4th a mile away then you will not be cited.

quote: Originally posted by goatboy: The Bone! So good! Any chance of posting those videos online? I don't know how hard or easy that is to do, but I'd love to see footage of that thing! Not my work there, you will have to ask 009. I can tell you that he might have some cool footage for sure. Maybe a 10 minute fest of me trying to climb up a crack and hanging on gear

David this is almost the same exact experience I had last year. Was the officer's name Larry Inthout?

Bummer dude, I think I sent you guys some info (not detailed but my experience) on bushwhack and hard to find trails? Me being well versed in the bushwhack I may tend to think it can be more difficult than I say. Still I did not understand where you may have ascended to Mesa Lake clearly. Did you enter via Temple Canyon or Toketie Lake? I am lost. Of course I never personally thought any of the hikes into the Rat Creek group were going to be a pushover. I thought that it was obvious if I went in there myself that nailing more than one of those things would be in order due to the long walk.

Maybe for those wishing not to lose their complete manhood they can become hermaphrodites

Yes you can have fires. You missed out once again Drul. When are you going to get with the program homey

I drank beer with the company of other alcoholics near the campfire. Then we(Dr.Jay and Fendell) went to Castle Rock where we took falls and we had fun. 009 had a super adventure with his movie camera on The Bone

quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: Fuzzy Details? established line-Sudden Impact 5.11b Selkirks knifeblades protecting the crux extremely run-out (without fixed pro) "There are no tricky placements" Only question is, is the route worthwhile? Might consider what the 1st ascentionist has to say too! huh sounds like a stiff route for sure. I would consider the last question in the quote above...

If you bolt it be prepared for some sort of criticism if it is not in good style. I think if you can protect it then don't bolt it. I don't think that you need to come get advice from this website and that most people really know when they are doing wrong they just tend to ignore it. If you can get in a tcu or 2 then why bother. Although the quality of rock and all is a factor as well. Sure anyone can go buy a drill and push the button and drive in a bolt with a hammer. Then they have created a route but just make sure you think about the long lasting effects. Stainless hardware is a good idea that many ignore. Also is this an established line on well travelled stone. Ask yourself questions. It really sounds like this is an established line and that this friend may want to just learn how to place pro but your details are fuzzy. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 10-01-2001).]

I spoke with pms and he said that he believed the Girth Pillar route was still intact. I showed him my photo...

Here you can look at what I was talking about. This is about 2 months old so....... Thanks to Mike Adamson letting me post them on his webserver.

Jens and Loren did it this year in swift time. I think the hardest part might be passing the schrunds near the final exit chute from what I could see. However I aint never done it and they might have better info for sure. I ditto the bombing effect by Lambone but it is getting colder too.. I have a photo or 2 if you want to look.. David just how can you say a thing like you did and expect it not to be interpreted as directed at me since I was the only person that had responded about the ice cliff glacier at all? Open mouth and insert foot. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-28-2001).]

I have never used anything but Rambo comps and switchblades. After the first time I used the Grivels I wanted to throw away the BDs. They are "sticky" with the monopoints and displace less ice in my opinion making for more efficient climbing because they seemed to place in the ice easier. my 2cents

Gosh guys if I were going along we would definitely have the 6 pack rollin' ! I cannot survive without it.

David if you read my post closely you see that I say it can be done. If you dont like it dont tell me to shut up unless you expect me to take it as an insult. Maybe you have been climbing ice for 16 years but not me. So I put in my 2 cents and you did not like it. Feel free to send me a personal message if you want to be more of an asshole than you just have been! What I really suspect is that you hold some hidden grudge against me because I am a voiceful person on this website. Get real. [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 09-28-2001).]

Good to hear there is more going on out there and I want to stir some shit up cuz nobody is talking about it. Personally Matt I don't care about some of those routes. I think that someone here knows more than what is being said for sure though. I am not going to worry about them for now. But if I come up to a missing anchor you can bet your ass I might replace it if I think it needs it.

quote: Originally posted by mneagle: Anyone ever try Stuart's Ice Cliff Glacier this time of year? You got a death wish? Seriously it looked pretty well melted out over a month ago but possibly doable on the upper snow chute. Have at it but I think it is not the wisest time to do it. I bet it can be done if you are persistant.