Cpt.Caveman

It's all chossy up there in the Coast Mountains. Please stay home and I will scale the choss instead.

So there I was yappin on the phone with Jimmy. Then I hear Dberdickneck was talking smack about our cruddy climb. Well I had fun and I think everyone else did. What a fuckin Johnny Movie of us hating loser bitches like Darin Derfucknek. Jimmy wanted me to post this image I took last year here.

Pro to 2 inches. I dont recall ever needing doubles and the corner pitch after the tree stem is harder than the supposed 5.8 finger crack pitch (felt easier to me) up higher.

Want to climb alpine rock or snow and ice routes. Near border or in Cascades preferred. Uptight mofos need not apply. I dont carry the 50 essentials but always have a fun time climbin'. Ray *** sorry phone not working *** Looks like I might be filling up the weekend.

Hello, Thank you allow American to climb. What next

Just checking in here onece in a while and have to comment on the genius Work of Loren and Darin. I am sure they have tons of intelligent and or liberal backing here on this board to spew in their defense. I see it - the starving poor and opressed people of Seattle and Wa and the relation of the sports stadiums is on par with Iraqui Mosques their people and Govt buildings there too.

That's not what I was talking about Dru......... Just have respect. I just saw some comments that fucking pissed me off. Maybe they were not related and I am over sensative... BTW WTF about mid to late June? I dont have your email address here at home Dru. Can you send it to me at rayborbonathotmaildotcom? Later

Please have respect to them and dont start side threads in spary in order to armchair the problems. Thanks. If you feel the need to talk smack do it in the political thread section or do a friendly ole shut the fuck up. If you dont agree I can happily meet you and shut your fucking hole for you.

A man of good spirit and a good partner.......

Today I found out my friend Bob Enagonio has passed away in a skiing accident near Rogers Pass. Bob was not the closest friend but we managed to have a fantastic time climbing together. Particularly on Mount Victoria 2 summers ago. I just want to say that I am sad to hear about his accident and want him to be remembered. I hope his soul rests in peace. Apparently the last word I have is that his body still rests in a crevasse at this time and a memorial is being held on the 18th. See www.Live-the-vision.com for details if willing to attend. Bob was a good skier and climber having made many ski tours and climbs of great peaks in Canada and the US to include some here in the Cascade Range. I believe he has done the Devil's Thumb and also Howse Peak in winter just for starters and was a lower key individual that obviously had a great passion for the hills. He has contributed numerous articles to the CAJ and was originally a US citizen from the east coast. I have attached 2 of my favorite photos of Bob.

We got a free demo of this from MSR this winter. It's quick, it's not my style of device since it requires attention - which I mean that if you dont have the proper amount of salt it errors but probably still works good enough in *some* cases. Since we never paid a dime I didn't complain but iodine which I usually prefer to use was probably not optimal in our location\situation. I wont be buying one but could recommend it as a better use than iodine in trashier\polluted situations based on personal opinion. It does give chlorine taste to the water but that did not bother - might others. I'd use it again in the situation I was in but would bum it again from MSR..

I think they have a place. I'll be accepting rides when I can and think a little more open minded than the suggestion. In fact if you want to revert to wildeness ethics you might as well just spray about bolts, snowmobiles, helicopters, roads, motor powered boats, cars, logging and get it over with in one shot for some good spray. I could list one or 2 more but I think we get the idea..

The bad part is the oil and other non bio degradable elements to include the machine itself for instance are polluting the streams below. ALthough I dont agree with taking them up there and not talking about range and location when I say that- I do think snowmobiles have a place in our country. Anyone can simply ridicule people. That is another discussion that people can blow up here if they want to.

My friend mr x guided in China specifically for rock climbing for over a year. He just got back. He's been there a few times. I hear it's great. I think he was doinkin asians for fun since he probably couldnt get laid here. But that's another story. I could ask him for info if you really want to know.

Midway is one of my most favorite routes around here. It's fuckin kick ass like many other climbs on the Castle formation. If only Saber had a better second pitch it would be in the same league as far as rating and climbing are concerned. I think I have done some variations to saber and stuff near it left and right but they aint as good as midway.

It's in december. You can look at the death report in the website for avalanches. I think it is referenced in the nw avalanche site and also in http://avalanche.org by clicking on something like accidents.... Dave what did the reference to traks say?

Yep that explains it. The log was there in December but looks long gone now. The only ones making the fuss were Paul and Justin. I was just trying to offer some information and suggested my methods for finding the trail were sound.

Here is a photo of the log crossing. If you can cross there you will be on the trail and will not have to schwack.

Nice slope. http://www.nwac.noaa.gov/revised_navaho_peak_slide.jpg

Cross the big log where the sign is next to the river - if it's doable and both are still there. Then it's kinda sorta front and left from there. If you can cross the big log then you're set. If not then I suggest crossing the river (looking at the river) then bush bash (which I have had to do once last year) forward and left. Snoop and follow your nose. The trail can be faint but human use is obvious. Once you get on it and 200 meters from the river you should not be able to loose it in my opinion. Oh yeah- The big log and sign I am talking about it not directly across from the parking lot. I remember it being some distance between 50-100 meters left (as if looking at the river) from the parking lot. There's usually a good short trail of about 50 meters to the river and sign... Good luck next time...

using:ingnoreannoying

I dont recommend internet first aid courses based upon shithouse lawyers. Take a course. BTW the techniques and opinions advance and change often for some areas. Remember that shit changes like I said above and when you should change is kind of confusing for techniques and formalities depending...

There is nothing wrong with style comparisons. But to make a rating based upon a piece of gear or furnished addition that has been in place for a while and designed and used by many of the users (especially the so called elite users and innovaters or pioneers) and trying to downgrade it or change the case make it easily the culprit and problem when one talks about climbing most of the time in regards to M ratings IMHO. BTW I climbed an m4 once onsight on lead so I proclaim myself an expert on decisions here. It's 5.10 to climb this crack (some crack) with shoes, chalk, ropes, cams, chocks, and etc for latest gear available right? If somoene chooses to sit start the crack without shoes, ropes, cams, etc doesn't change the rating. I think the evolution of reverse evolution of what has already happened might be something here.... Is it trad mixed if you dont use spurs on m9? Is this a new definition of trad climbing or sit starting or sandbagging or is it just what we see? BTW I dont have spurs or horses and prefer to frontpoint up easy ice. Latah PS This website is slow for me right now........ Not sure if my post is making it in there..

I dont disagree- but that traverse was my favorite pitch. Do one then rap and do the other to see them both ;-)

I think that was catbirdshit feces not species.