Peter_Puget

…right about one thing. This site is full of wannabes! It’s the end of summer and no one is spraying about climbing. Not even goofy “let’s go to 38 posts”. (Something I’d like to do by the way) Instead everyone is spraying about saying SHIT or FUCK. Even worse I am reading this crap. Pathetic! Let’s get some climbing talk going! If only there was a ROCK CLIMBING FORUM! PP

I forget the name but you park in the large trailhead/parkinglot about 14 miles off i-90. Cross the bridge (huge arch)then follow the trail around 15 minutes to where you can see the wall. There are at least two trails to the wall take the second (near some steps in the trail) These direction may seem vague but they should work. Once on the trail you can't get lost and you'll know the trail by the bridge. The routes are pretty good. It would not be a good area on a sunny day. th ewall get shade in the afternoon. The route labeled .10b on the photodiagram must be a typo as it was harder than the .10d and the .11 to the left. Best one pitch slab climbing in the state. There are second pitches but we didn't climb them. Just looked at the picture. Best routes are Pay to Play and Wonderful World. The 5.9 is a good route too but has one funky clip. If you are short you might want to bring an extender or I just might be a super wiennie. PP

I wonder if cam stops really would have helped in the situation you describe. On single axle cams the cams stops I am familiar with only work when pressing against the cam stop on the opposing cam. Thus, if one cam is fully contracted the other is free to become over-extended despite having a cam stop. PP

Two unanswered questions remain: 1) Where is the lab data supporting Tex's claim regarding Alien's strength vs. Met. TCUs? 2) Alex, Why do you think the lack of cam stops cause your unit to become damaged? PP

The concern over conflict between climbers is quite real. I am sure almost everyone surfing this site is not for the bolting of cracks. I am even more certain that those who view it as ok are not going to have their minds changed by any debate on this site. As a side bar I would note that in several areas land managers have asked climbers to install rap anchors so that easy walk off are not used in order to reduce erosion. PP

Well Ice Ice what do you think? My only comment is that they wheren't very good at what they were trying to do. Namely: Why all the BS crow bar shit. Sure they pulled it out a bit but ultimatley they broke it off! Why not just start whith that idea. Ultimately their end result is at best not different and you eliminate the chance of fucking up the rock with all the prying. Ah amatuers at work. PP

Alex - Just trying to visualize how the lack of cam stops "toasted" the alien. Can you tell me more about how that happened? PP

Good climb but it sure as heck aint no finger crack!

Have you climbed much at Beacon? I bet there are some good cracks there.

Well if you're talkin Yosemite: Butterballs! Pinky Paralysis! Torque Converter! English Breakfast Crack! exas Chainsaw Massacre! Serenity is a groovy climb! PP

Here are some that pop to mind: Static Point Cool finger crack on Lost Charms at Static Point. Why don’t more people climb this route? Index Second pitch of Japanese Gardens. Each jam smaller than the one before it. Pressure Drop has some gnarly ring jams before it becomes hand size. Leavenworth The 10b on the Kramar/Bale route. Looks 5.7 until you start it! ROTC is fingery at the hard part. Radio Sex too short but bomber jams Snoqualmie Pass That route on the left side of the Fun Forest. What are your favs? PP

I want you, every morning, to wake up, look in the mirror and ask yourself: 'What can I do today to increase the money supply?' " -- John Erlichman

Right ON Mattp! PM your screen name to me. By the way because I suspect that the BBS will see a huge increase in traffic now I want to clarify one hting: Trask is my name on the site. Don't want you to be confused and think it was my inspiration from this site. PP

Erik why don't you volunteer to mod the forum? That'll get them moving on it. I'll be your backup!

Plus I like the squirrel at the entrance and that face has the “damn I was just busted at the park bathroom” mug shot look!

I think one reason I feel so at home here is the great thread titles: “Bivvy Sack Question” “Trask, I can’t take it anymore” “How do you clean you gear” ”Exit 32 or 38?” “What a weekend” “”Checking in with the Plab” “I don’t get it” “Jay Len Queer Eye Makeover” “Pub Club 8/5” “JGowans Something to make you feel at home” “Wank” “Sex Crazed with a Meter long Penis” “What is chestbeating?” “Need a partner for Marymore Park” You'd find the same or smilar titles on the Ramrod BBS . PP

Marylou I agree with your comments vis a vis but I have always felt wanted here at CC.com. With the exception noted above.

Now you're talkin' DFA. That is the question facing mankind today. Due to a lack of this vital forum we are stuck with homo jokes. Let's talk rock! PP Actually I think it (the NEW ROCK CLIMBING FORUM] ) will be up after Timmy's vacation.

I would but Alpinek scares me! PP

More importantly is how does job loss compare to previous recessions as a % of workforce. My guess is as you are reading this you have no clue. Right or wrong? PP

I am sure this has been posted before. here is my fave: PP

I won't tell 'cause I can keep a secret. Good Work! PP

It always surprises me how climbs at Darrington (and other slabby areas) often look dirty and crappy from the bottom and clean and white when viewed from above! Especially Gastroblast. I said slabby areas but I remember the Waterway route at Index looks dirty from below but really white when you’re looking down a pitch.

The attached graph plots the Fair Model employment (private industry) over time and adds its projection. Note the graph forms a W ! Y axis in in the hundreds of million jobs. PP

But to go in to a retail shop and ask for their help and advice, then leave and buy it from someplace else that doesn't provide the service, then you're shoplifting. I agree that to get advice with the intention of making a purchase based on that advice elsewhere isn’t the right thing to do but to call it shoplifting is the same as calling war terrorism. Mere sloganeering in such a way as to confuse the discussion. If I enter a store as customer I am under no obligation to make my purchase there regardless of the quality of the advice. The short but true answer is that if enough consumers do not value a personal sales advice enough to pay a premium for it when making a purchase then the service will disappear. Consumers may find out that in the long run they made the wrong decision. PP