Lambone

I disagree, I've never seen a placement that a TCU would work in and an Alien would not, but have seen many circumstances where Aliens worked when TCU's blew out while bounce testing. In otherwords, Aliens allways work. Just my experience, usually obvious in pin scars...

Don't know what yo're waiting for Cracked, we climbed 6 full pitches of good ice up in Lillooet last weekend. Don't be decieved...

I moved this thread to spray because it doesn't belong in the Gear Critic. I mean no offense to anyone. Enjoy

ICE: Drury Falls Night'nGale Polar Circus Big Walls: Tangerine Trip North America Wall Mescalito Peaks: Ranier-Lib Ridge, or any Route Mt. Triumph Slesse Those may not be the top routes, but the #1 priorities on my tick list

Night'n Gale is in, sorry I can't go. I'm waiting till next weekend.

Cool, let us know how that ice is lookin yngeale. i'm typicaly sceptical of south facing water ice, but it sounds fun!

Freakin scientists...

naw, don't know victor. The Blodget Canyon kicks ass for rock in the summer! I'll be in touch...

Dave, I haven't climbed in the Bitteroots yet. But there is ice. My friend in Boz has climbed the flows in Blodget Canyon. I guess they are ok. Kelly Cordes put up alot of little mixed routes around there. I guess Mission Falls is one of the closest quality places. My wife and I are thinking of moving to the Bitteroots within the next year. I'm allready on the lookout for partners.

The Genesis area gets pretty beat up, cause it's so close to the trailhead. Similar to Marble Canyon or the Rambles. But more obscure climbs in the canyon are ussualy much fresher.

That 30 day return policy is bogus. if you haven't used them, then you should be able to at least exchange them. I'd go back to where you got them. Or just keep them, they are good boots. And the gaitor is actually pretty cool.

Just wit until you get popped in the face. You wont be tempted after that. Might want to wear some sunglasses...

Desey, It sounds like your looking for a warm boot to use on multiday volcano routes, and you have a narrow foot. I have a narrow foot and heel as well, and I have had trouble finding a warm plastic boot that my heel doesn't slide in. The best fit I've found is in the Lowa Civetta. The Scarpa Alpha works well also. Forget about the Koflachs, they are a wide and boxy fit. Otherwise, perhaps the Sportiva Trango Extreme if you are looking for a non-plastic boot. What size foot do you have? I am trying to sell my Civettas because they are 1/2 size to big and mt heel slips. Otherwise they are kick ass boots.

Yeah, I agree with you. I am not exactly sure how the diversions were built. But from what I could tell, wood beams were placed diagonaly from the main flows. I only spent about a minute looking at it after stripping our top-rope anchors.

Well, I said two things. First, I think they would be difficult to remove now, based on what I saw last weekend. I may be wrong but it looked to me like the water was diverted by logs and boards sunk into the dirt, and are now frozen over with ice. But I could be wrong. Second, I said that they would probably get put back again in the future. I have no idea who put them there, or why they did it (other than to make more climbs). But the same thing happened in Hyalite Canyon, every year they were removed, and the same dude went up and replaced them. He eventualy poured concrete to make them permenant. I am not really for or against them either way. I think it is great to have more ice to climb, especialy in that popular area. And I don't think that Icy BC suffered too much, it is climbable. But...if the Govt is pissed than that is bad for ice climbers in general. Access needs to be preserved over all else.

...and I thought I was a tech wennie...

The diversions probably couldn't come out until the spring. And even if they are removed, someone will probably just put them back next year...

The original x-15's from the early 90's were coated in all black rubber. They are not the same as the Black Prophets. I believe the construction in the shaft, and the head is different.

Well, I hate to say this but...no shit. Did the people who made the diversions think otherwise?

X-15's are decent tools for moderate cllimbing, but you could probably talk them down to at least 150. I sold a pair of Shreiks for 200$ with leashes and brand new picks. There are better deals out there. Keep an eye on ebay, lot's of tools there lately.

I especialy liked the one (brief) lead test I gave where the belayer clipped his belay device on the wrong end of the rope (the opposite end his partner was tied into). I actually gave him a chance to figure out his mistake, and he got red in the face cause after double checking every thing twice, he still thought everything was perfectly fine. That was the end of the test.

One of the funniest things I ever saw working at a gym was when some guy came up for a belay test... It was pretty obvious from the start that he wasn't going to pass the test, when he had a leg loop around his waist, the belay loop was in the back, and he invented some new way of doubleing back the buckle that I probably could never recreate. But he was not offended when I politley recomended signing up for our introductory class. Gym employees live for that shit, it breaks up an otherwise boring and redundant day.

Yeah, all you had to say was "California"

I have been on the other end of that test. If you have ever spent much time at a gym (obviously not), you'd understand why the tests are necessary. Some of the things I have seen in there have just blown my mind, and made me wonder how more people don't get hurt there. You gotta remember that gym's usualy have two types of employees. The climbing bum who dropped outa school and can't get a better job, but has been around the block and knows whats up, knows the difference between sketchy and anal. Then you got the other end of the spectrum, where the employee just barely has enough experience to be giving the lead test in the first place. They probably coudn't tell a gumby from Mark twight, so they treat everyone as if they are a gumby. Which is what they should do. If I were still working at the gym, and had givin specialedumacation a lead test, I'd just say "Dude, don't skip the clips, I know you could and all, but whats the point...just follow the rules so my boss don't yell at me and it'll be all good." The new girl was probaly like, "YOU'RE GUNNA DIE!" So which is the better attitude? Between one that brings back return customers, and one that maintains a level of "saftey???" I'm not sure. All I know is that a newbie that I once taught to lead in the gym got up on a route that was over his head, was too pumped to clip the last draw, so he gunned for the anchor. He fell of the finishing hold and decked from 35ft up. Maybe his belayer had something to do with it, but he wouldn't have decked if had just clipped the damn draw. The walls arn't very tall, so if you skip one, there is a good chance you will hit the deck should you fall. If they allow that, why even make ropes and lead tests mandatory...? I felt pretty guilty about my students mistake, but he was ok, and I tried to make it a learning experience for myself. What I realized is that it is a bad idea to make assumptions about someones ability, or knowledge. Just cause they have old school worn out gear doesn't meen they are experienced, and vise-versa. The smart thing to do is treat everyone equally and follow standards, that way individuals can't be offended by a policy. Anyway whatever...if making the poor chick cry didn't do it for you, I'm sure you'll patch your bruised ego soon enough in one way or another. You can start healing right now, spray on... Oh, and one other thing, please remember that I am a former gym employee, and that my opinions don't necesarily reflect the veiws or policies of any particular establishment.