Lambone

I'm reluctant to make this comment here, but... I'd say that the "dyamicness" of a ATC versus a Reverso is about the same. A belayers body position and rope handeling would have much more effect than the type of belay device most cases. A munter hitch, and Gri-Gri are the two most static belay methods. One wonders why aid climbers allways use gri-gris while climbing on bodyweight placements...lazy belayers I guess. I wasn't there to see Erdens belay technique, so I am not making any judgements about the incident. It's all just a sad mystery to me...

sorry man, that does suck... are you sure you don't have any Scot'terx stickers on your rig?

Proof...just go do some aid climbing somewhere...anywhere really... Take a set of Aliens up on a wall along with a set of TCU's or BD's for that matter. Then make your own descision about which works better. It's pretty common knowledge that Aliens will be way more bomber then anything else in flared crappy pinscars. And that's regular aliens, I haven't even mention the offsets, nothing even compares! Although I havent tried Zeros yet, they look pretty sweet too, pretty short stem/cable though...

haha, funny to see this thread again. Fence Sitter- Ok, first of all...when the hell have you ever seen me emphisizing grades on this board? I'd like to see one example. And where the hell do you get off insinuating that I am not "drawn to the lack of competition and beauty of the outdoors." Ya got me pegged all wrong there buddy. Anyway, regarding competition climbing, gyms, coaches, etc. I think its great for kids. I don't see how it's any different from any other organized sport, kids have fun trying to out do one another, it's their nature. Adults arn't much different. And whats wrong with "greater, and greater diversification in the climbing world?" Would you prefer that everyone climbed on your terms, and enjoyed climbing in only the ways in which you do? The only thing I find wrong with the new generation of climbers is how quick they are to judge other people.

Thanks smartypants I bought some cheap REI Dynamic ones and have been pretty happy with them. I wear them on almost every climb...but first I had to cut the REI tag off so my partners wouldn't make fun of me...

Hi Carolyn, (oops, flatland beat me too it) There is more than one type of scholler fabric. Their "Dynamic" version is lighter weight and not as durable, but I haven't had any problems with it as of yet. REI and Black Diamond uses this in their scholler pants. The other type is "Powershield" (I think), and it is heavier, more durable, and more water resistant. Patagonia Guide pants are made out of this stuff. I think it is better, but it depends on what you want it for... I'd say that the Dynamic works fine in the summer and is cooler, and the Powershield stuff (if that is what it's called) is better in winter conditions. Either way, you can't go wrong.

The daisy works great for aiding, but I don't know why you'd carry one for regular climbing just to use as a anchor connection. Talk about carrying too much crap...bring a regular daisy that you can actually trust, or just use a clove hitch. Carrying a bodyweight only bearing piece for part of a main anchor set-up is just silly...

Hey Slide, I'm moving to Ashland in a month, we should hook up! Also going to Yosemite for a month through June-July. See ya!

Great Climb! I think SkiSports lives in Missula, send him a PM.

Is that the same place as the bookstore downtown?

well whatever smartypants... Anyone who free climbs A5 without adding bolts is a freaking bad ass.

But didn't Einstien help develop the A-Bomb? Sounds kinda hypocritical to me...

A couple of my friends want to learn how to aid climb (just the basics), but we won't have enough time to drive out to Index. Anyother ideas on good places to practice aid climbing? A simple bolt ladder will do. Gyms are out of the question...

I always have felt more comfortable trad climbing than sport climbing. It seems less scary for me for some reason. I think because you get to chose where your placements go instead of having to fire through sequences to get to the next clipping spot.... i.e. I like to sew it up I'm pretty much just as afraid to fall sport climbing as I am when trad climbing, and the weight of the rack isn't that much next to the weight of my belly, so it all evens out. The hardest sport climb I've done was only a couple of letter grades harder then the hardest trad climb (niether were relatively hard at all). I think tendon and ab strength, and being afraid to whip are my most limiting factors. On topic, I thought Alex Hubers solo of that 5.13c (or whatever) was hardcore! But not as hardcore as his free onsight of the A5 pitch on Golden Gate with no added gear or bolts. That is some burly/ballsy shit right there...

hey homie, got rained of TC yesterday...not surprised are ya? Some boys from Tacoma were launchin huge blocks over by Golden Arch...we were wondering what the f#%@$k they were up to????

I sent a mothers day to my momma...

Sweet! Last I saw of Tom Brokaw he was interveiwing Sadam Hussien, now he's narrating climbing flicks...this guy's all over the place!

No, perhaps not. But biners have broken. Quite recently in fact. Rope stretch potentialy has more to do with this then biner strength.

I can never remember how to tie a bowline...haven't been able too since boy scouts, must be some sort of mental block...

goddamit, can't have any fun...sheeeesh

well, i was thinking shoes for the decent, Possibly 1 super lightweight axe, two light shells, some water and some grub. And a headlamp. That calls for a small pack... I'd like to think we'd be that fast, but it's not likely.

fuck the haul bag... 1 lite pack(hopefully) is all...

Should you need a light axe on the descent this time of year?

Yeah Mountaineers are people too... ...just like the elementry school kids who walk around my neighborhood all holding on to a rope and taking directions from their teacher. Just kiddin

I agree with both perspectives, school sucks, work sucks...they both suck, either way you are sitting on your ass spraying on cc.com. The only thing that doesn't suck is climbing.