Lambone

.5 Find a climbing partner in Ashland... 1. First Ice trip to Canada Rockies 1.5 Polar Circus with Bozeman bro. 2. Drury Falls with ryland, it's going to be a marathon weekend from sothern Oregon! 3. Winter wall in Yosemite or Zion, maybe solo if .5 doesn't happen soon. 3.5 Lots of skiing and winter camping with my wife.

Hey Erden, Nice job...good luck on your adventure. What about the 7th summit?

Not a FA, but I have allways gawked at the Norwiegan Buttress of Mt index. I'd love to try to repeat the Dorish route someday, or something new...looks wild.

your right, I'm not worthy to spray with the likes of dru, forgive me oh great one

those trixy sport climbers...hates them we dooo...kills them we will...yes, yes.

http://www.mtnphil.com/cams/CamsMap.html

If you are talking about devilboys, I can attest that it is in good condition. He takes good care of his stuff. I've played around with it and I think its a good tranciver...infact, maybe I should buy it...

Drove to Sacramento to to see Ryan's family...they wouldn't let me into the ICU. Ryan is hanging on by a thread, and has come back from the edge several times this week. His father Mike says, "The doctors have done all they can, it is up to the Lord now. Time to get every one we can and storm the gates of heaven." Ryan couldn't have a stronger companion than Mike in this battle. Thanks for the kind words and thoughts. Matt

http://www.promountainsports.com/ Jim Nelson- owner, local Cascade guru and resident gearhead. He is also very generous with demo gear, may be worth asking... ASAP my friend, I'm getting the itch!

hey devilboy, so whats the beef about a little leather in the boot? Seems to me that you'd trash the trango ice flimsy gaitor/strap set-up pretty quick, I'd go with the S. Contact Jim at Pro-Mountain Sports about the fit issues. I think he's got experience with both models. send a PM to pms. turn off the machine and hit the woody

I think the thid pitch is the crux. The 4th is alot of fun and worth going back for, only easy C2. The 5th is kind of bullshit and nothing great. That fixed pin on the 3rd is exiting!

did you take any photos? just curious...

I have heard old schoolers say that the base of El Capitan was once a trash heap. Someone was conmplaining about garbage they had seen recently...and another guy responded ...man you should have seen it back in the '80s. So there may be more climbers, but I think people are generaly becoming more sensitive to the environment.

Glacier Peak dude... But the only thing scary about that was the two crazy women i was stuck in an i-tent with for three days... ...don't tell my wife I said that

oh...one more... Strung out in the middle of an aid pitch on El Cap...and realized that it wasn't just a fart. Damn canned beans... And, come to think of it...I get THE FEAR every time I jug a damn rope, I hate jugging.

I have had a few. One lightning event on top of Beartooth Plateau (12,000ft and nowhere to hide...). It was the middle of the night when snowfall changed to to hail, then rain, and a BIG electrical strom rolled through. Pretty much the same as mattp describes, blue teeth and hair, sparks coming off zippers, conecting arcs between mittens, electrodes reaching for the sky off of every rock. It was pitch black, so the blue color really stood out, the taste of electricity in our mouths was also really vivid. It was a nightmare, I thought we were dead for sure. It was like a war movie with bombs landing all around us, only they were blinding lightning bolts. We spent the night huddled in a ditch trying to remember CPR. A year a two ago I was the most scared I had ever been ice climbing. It was the last pitch of Synchronicity in Lilooet. The whole route was great, but the last 20 ft or so was a hollow rotten tube. At the top it was sticking out 3 feet from the rock, and less than an inch thick. Water was just gushing behind it and I sort of had to climb half in it and half out because there a huge hole to get past. My last screw was one of those bullshit titanium things. I should have downclimbed, but it was getting dark and I didn't want to waste time screwing around. I have never been so glad to hit the sling anchor on top of an ice climb. The last one was half way up the Zodiac, I was leading a pitch, strung out on some old bullshit heads...looked down and noticed my knot was untied and the rope was just about to slip out of my harness. That was stupid, it almost gave me a heart attack!

Mine had that tendency to "slip out"... the more I climbed, the less it slipped and hurt. Keeping it strong was key. I started doing some basic shoulder excercized with the big rubberband and such, and it helped alot. If I take time off from climbing I am much more conservative with it.

I don't think it needs seperate chains. In fact I had no trouble top-roping this line on the big chains on top of the Tower, just use a long runner. If it's to hard on the rope...then don't. I saw the new two bolt anchor on the otherside, above the 5.9 offwidth corner...this is stupid as well... Just my opinion...

ooppps, I should finish reading before I post...sorry. I saw a guy deck off of the bottom of Saber once...

Why is it dangerous??? It takes bomber cams all the way up. Is it actually the route or rock that is dangerous, or the wannabe 5.8 trad leaders who can't place solid gear on an overhanging trad climb yet. Just curious as to your thoughts on this matt...

One thing to watch for is any fresh snow covering up any potential holes. This was my biggest worry the one time I went Seracing on the Colman. We didn't rope up, except for some short top ropes on seracs. Then again, a serac could colapse and kill someone at any time, so take your chances...

Just a comment... You guys should work on some more interesting/difficult holds for drytooling. Horizontal blocks of wood don't really reflect what real mixed climbing is like. Send me a PM if you want some ideas, one of my good friends has a great home woody with "holds" that offer some technical drytooling. Your event sounds cool, wish I was around for it.

adventuregal, When trying to post a pick in a forum, right click on the photo, click properties, and use the adress in the properties window. It should end in .jpg I just figured this out the other day...

Found some, thanks.

I agree... Ice climbing in plastic boots, especially ski boots...sucks. Sure it may be more support, which might be nice on a long smooth grade 3 climb. But get into any steep funky stuff and it will be like rock climbing in heavy mountain boots. I use La Sportive S's (the red ones) for roadside day cragging, super liht and supple. And Technica Attitude Plus's on longer colder climbs. Boots make a big difference, the most important thing is that they fit well. Have fun!