Lambone

Hmmm...interesting. Thanks Mark.

Don't be too jealous man...ain't nobody climbin that thing this year. Cool pic though!

Agreed...for instance -the tube on Icy BC is in pitifull shape right now. Dale says hire a guide to learn how to ice climb...(maybe it is in his self intrests to say that.) But my question is why do guides let their clients beat the shit out of Icy BC every weekend? Do they tell them to hook, or do they just not care?

Bring a headlamp, throw some extra jollyranchers (or sugar of your choice) in pocket for bonk provention on the decent. These two things will save the knees and ankles. Always carry a bigwall rack.

Yes to both. The coloiur is the obvious one next to Tower 1, there is a good pic of it in the book as well. That is the easy pary (1hour)...the ridge took all day (toped out just before sunset)w/ tricky route finding, but good rock. It was snowy/icy mixed conditions that day, just awsome... The Ellingwood ridge looks like it just goes forever! Unfortunately I have never been to the Cirque. It looks unsurpassed with many more continuos long stellar rock routes. Some day... I'd also like to do a route on Hooker sometime.

"This Ain't No Pussy Crack" 5.10a ** -Squamish Stumbled across it while flipping through the guide book today.

Yeah, but I'd say more like an hour and a half. There is a good salmon bar right across from that gravel pit or whatever it is...It is mostly an easy tromp up with two bouldery moves over steps. The first pitch goes quick at WI 3 for 30 meters. Then ramble up 100m of WI -2 to the base of the big flow. Great route, I will be back some time for that last pitch!

EW,Cool, thanks. (Just in case you didn't notice) I was the one who had them fall apart while climbing. Twice. I have fixed them a third time and they seem to be working now. But I'd say that my faith in them is sketchy at best. I know I should have sent them back and wrote a letter and all that stuff. But that takes time and money. Two things I am short on these days, plus what would I climb with? Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, as I did not recieve an e-mail from you. Any word on the 17 cm express screw backorder situation? Thanks again, take it easy. Matt [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Look fellas, I'm not tryin to say that I was mad at anybody up there, or that I had a right to climb the ice and they didn't...I was only stating that I was bummed that those folks just marched in and set up top ropes above us. You know what, I would have been glad to say "sure go ahead you've got a big group and need the space." If they had asked if we minded, or if we were planning to lead the upper pitches. But they didn't bother. All I am talking about is a little curtosy here. By the way- we were the first party there that morning. Not that it matters, I just would have felt oblidged to ask if the other party minded if we top roped above them, thats all. They offered to let us lead the second pitch, but that was already after they were all set up with a rope draping down the ice. Unfortunately, it just seems like crowded areas foster a lack of curtosy towards fellow climbers. For instance, a guy who ended up leading the third pitch of Icy later in the day dropped a screw. Another guy in a different party found it, and I saw him showing it off to his buddies in the parking lot. He was going to keep it, and he even knew who dropped it!!!! I marched right up to the dude and asked him why he was planning on keeping it, and pointed out the car of the person who it belonged to. He gave me this "oh yeah, I better preserve my karma" sarcastic attitude and left the screw. Those were Americans. The day before a team of Canadians offered to give us one of their screws because we lost one of ours! They must have felt guilty cause we were rushing so they could climb as well. See the difference here???? It doesn't matter what Nationality they are, some climbers respect others, and some don't give a shit! People who hack the hell out of Icy BC on top rope when you could easily hook your way up just don't give a shit about other climbers...thats all. Leading is a bit different, cause no one wants to fall, myself included.

quote: Originally posted by EW: Hakioawa, you're right on track. the Denali XT is not available now in the US/Canada. However, it will be this coming fall. I work for Black Diamond. We import Scarpa to the US and Canada. Your assessment of the boot is right on too. It's essentially a really stiff shelled Denali. The fit should be the same as the old Denali, as the shell last and molds are the same. Have you found that to be true? You work for BD huh? did you se the thread on Android Leashes? They should really do something about that little problem.

We were driving out of Hyalite Canyon in Bozeman after a day of ice climbing. It was a low snow year so the road was clear, but covered with black ice. We saw a Subaru take a nose dive thirty feet into the creek bed/boulder field straight in front of us. Luckily everyone was ok and we all had a good laugh about it. The car wasn't happy though. They must have had to haul it out of the river with a crane!

Yes! Ellingwood is a beautifull peak with a loooong prominent North Ridge on excellent granite(good as stuff in the cirque). Mostly easy fifth class climbing Grade III or easy IV from camp. Some friends of mine have soloed it, they all say it is a classic day out. But it's not in the south, more like the middle. You approach through Pindale on the west side as you would for Titcomb Basin. Head past Seneca Lake and on to Island Lake. You will see the Peak to the east, head east at fork in trail towards Indian Pass or something?? If your in that area definately head up to Titcomb Basin as well. It makes for a good basecamp for Ganite Peak. Also Check out Mt. Helen. The North Coulior up to the West Ridge is the best alpine route I've ever done, and the routes on Tower 1 look awsome! Need a partner? I have been dieing to go back there for a couple of years now. Have Fun! - Matt [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Your right, pretty nuts...He doesn't believe in the hearing aid thing huh? Yeah sometimes ledgends are made out to be something other than human...werd. Glad you hooked up with Crack too!

true,true...glacier was right. It is the Sheepshank. I allways got those two mixed up. I'm not exactly sure, but I think it isn't quite a clove hitch that you tie around the bights, and you definately only cut ONE strand. Might want to practice before trying it for real!

Dude I was offended that you didn't ask Dru to load up another bowl in Lilooet this weekend. I would have asked, but I was affraid of his canuk spray powers!

Yo glacier! We were on the same wavelength there, talk about a crazy coincedence! Good call on the Sheepshank, I never made Eagle Scout

At the end of a self rescue class once, we were presented with a list of situations to try and get out of. One was: Lets say you were stuck up on a blank wall(no features to downclimb) with many rappels to the ground. Each station is 50 meters apart, so you would need two ropes to get off. Problem is, you dropped one of the ropes, and are stranded with only one chord! Getting off the cliff is a matter of life or death, waiting for a rescue is not an option (no one will ever come.) What do you do? One solution was to use a funky knot that I once learned in Boy Scouts. I forget the name, but it might of been the Sheet Bend (I'll investigate that.) It is used for shortening a length of rope without cutting it by folding it and wrapping it around itself. The knot is two difficult to explain, but the basic jist of the knot is that you bend the very end of the rope into thirds and wrap it around itself(you can look it up in the boy scout handbook). This bend will hold under tension, but Only under tension, if unweighted the "knot" will come untied. Here is the catch... You fisrt fix the end of the rope to the anchor. Then you create the Sheet Bend. You weight the rope, then take a knife and CUT one of the three strands of rope that the bend creates It is esential that you cut the right strand or the knot will fail (make sure your backed up to the anchor while doing this!). Be sure the knot holds, unclip your daisy, and rap off! Just be sure not to stand on a ledge or unweight the rope untill you are down to the next anchor. Once down and clipped in, unweight the rope and flip it around a bit, the Sheet Bend will come untied and your rope will fall. Now many of you will say that this is a crazy idea, but think about it; would you rather die quickly while trying to live, or hang out and suffer a slow miserable death on the side of a wall?

The Black Diamond plastic one, hemisphere or something... Suprisingly it didn't crack! Everyone expected that it would be toast from the noise it made, a loud CRACK! It made my ears ring... But it worked!

The Black Diamond plastic one, hemisphere or something... Suprisingly it didn't crack! Everyone expected that it would be toast from the noise it made, a loud CRACK! It made my ears ring...

P.S.- Crack is the one who got me talking like that last week. Every other word is F*&^%... Sorry if I offended you.

quote: Originally posted by daler: Just a quick response to the whole Deeping wall issue. First of all leading the deeping wall in this years conditions is not being a "crazy mother Fucker"....If you want to improve get a mentor or hire a guide and get some honest learning done, toproping grade 5 ice a hundred times ice doesn't teach you much, except that its steep and pumpy. dale remsberg Don't get me wrong, I wasn't trying to say that you were out of control. Hell, I wasn't even there. I guess I meant that its crazy that you've got the confidence to climb 40 feet above the deck on thin ice without any decent gear. I give props to ya man, nice job. I thought the route was pretty easy too (all hooking + bomber steps), but then again I was just full of top rope power. I'd agree that top roping doesn't help you prepare to stay in control mentaly, but I think that mileage does help technique. Of course some people learn faster than others.

Yeah, nice guy... He led that thing with style too, placed about half as many scews as my sketchy ass.

Yah dat is true ya know, but it twas the first tyme I had seen topropes on a multi pitch ruute eeheee. It was totaly weird riiiight. The guys TRing up there were from UW and were actually pretty cool. They even let us jump on some ropes. It was just kind of a let down to pull the bulge on the first pitch and see some one standing there waiting to throw a TR down on it. Got to see the infamous J. Nelson strut his stuff on ICY BC. No helmet...even with three parties above him....ballsy dude. [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Nice...you should rigght up a more detailed trip report. I'm sure you got a couple of good stories after hangin with Fred... Honeyman is in great....if you are a kayaker who is looking to do the worlds longest waterfall drop. The whole thing fell down two weeks ago. I got to meet Drul dis weekend ya know, it was pretty damn cool riiiight, that guy can spray for hours eeehhheee.

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: Here here! I didn't get the luxery of learning to ice climb on a TR. It was follow that bad boy or nothing. On my second every ice climb.... Just in case you didn't realize it, when you second an ice climb you are usually on top rope. Unless the ice traverses horisontaly or something... Sorry, just had to be a smart ass.