Lambone

'Sall about the Jane's Addiction dawg...sheeeet!

Easy on the lambs!

Uhhhh...what does that mean???

[ 11-28-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I miss my lockdowns...sold 'em to willstrickland with my old tools. Hey will, wanna trade!

Ahhhh...when the Circus comes to town!

By snowboard punks, for snowboard punks... backside180

quote: Originally posted by miker: I might be up for this.If I can climb all V0's and half the V1s and select V2s and 3s which category am I in? Super beginners? miker Mike, You can climb as many problems as you want, and you have multiple trys to complete each, you will get points for the five hardest that you complete. V2-V3 is the intermediate category. If you sign up as a Beginer and do a bunch of V4s, you will be automaticly bumped up to Advanced Eric, I've worked at several comps that the VW has hosted, the bouldering comp was by far the funnest. A wide variety of climbers, lots of positive encouragement, everybody was just hangin out havin fun. I just wanted people to know about it, 'cause the more the merrier.

We are hosting a Bouldering Competition presented by The American Bouldering Series at the Seattle Vertical World on Saturday December 1st. Yes, that is this Saturday! First,Let me begin with a Common Misconception: You have to be super strong, and look like a pro to be in a bouldering comp... Answer: WRONG! This event is all about having fun and going for it...whatever your skill level. All AGES, AND LEVELS OF STRENGTH AND TECHNIQUE ARE ENCOURAGED TO COMPETE! All the problems will be brand new, and there will be something for everyone (yes-even really short people). There are four skill categories ranging from Beginner to Elite that will divide the ranking of the competitors. Anyone can compete within any category they wish, and jump on any problem regardless of its grade (there will be problems from V0- through Vsick). For most people its not about scoring points, it’s about having fun, pushing yourself, and cheering on others. For some people it’s all about winning! Whatever floats your boat... The Rundown:We'd like folks to show up between 9:00 and 10:00am to register. Between 10-11:00 we will be squaring away all the details, prepping the judges, and letting folks get warmed up. From 11-3:00 climbers will get their groove on, 'scend as many hard (or easy) problems as you can! Then we will total up the scores and give out COOL PRIZES for each category. Please contact the gym at (206) 283-4497 for more details on the registration fee($30.00 before 11/30/01 and $35.00 on the day of the competition), time schedule, scoring procedure, or any stuff like that. For directions to VW check out this web page Also:If anyone is interested in helping out, we are looking for volunteers (judges), free lunch and climbing afterward included. To those of you who refuse to submit to the joys of bouldering...peace be with you. This is the perfect opportunity for me to show all you cascadeclimbers what a hardman I am , but unfortunately I will be working the counter on Saturday... Hope to see ya there [ 11-27-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

The two trees fell about a mile and a half east of the Nisqually Entrance, before the switchbacks up to Paradise. They were about 50-80ft down the road from each other. I think the crash happened on the eastern-most tree, but I'm not sure if the car drove into it after it had fallen, or if it just landed right on the car. They closed the road and kept everyone up at Paradise for an hour or so. It was really strange that the two trees had fallen in esentialy the same place, but were totaly seperate from each other. It was pretty damn windy that day... Sad to hear about the loss

Fri-Shopping with the future inlaws Sat-got shredded by high winds and stinging drift at Paradise, flailed in crusty drifted cascade concrete... Sun- got soaking wet up at Big Four Ice Caves, also got schooled on some overhanging glacier ice. That stuff is hard, but hella fun...way cool for only 1.5 hrs. drive time!

Yeah, than we agree- I said: "The spikes on the BD carbon fiber tools are just glued into place. They will not hold any type of falling force. Don't do it..." I never said they wouldn't hold body weight. Anyway, thanks for checking that out for us. That is valuable information. BTW- BD claims that their leashes are not designed to hold more than body weight.

Don't get me wrong Dave, You can adjust the Androids in order to be able to grab the head easily. It all depends on where you fasten the hose clamp that fixes the leash to the shaft. For that matter, you could just omit the hose clamp all together. Mine are new, so I still need to play around with them a bit. 'Bout to get super techy geek style here... Advantages of putting the clamp low: 1. If you fix the hose clamp low on the shaft the tool has a different balance point. If you hold your arm down and let go of the tool, it wants to stay in your hand. This makes it easy to let the tool go for a second (to lets say ohhh...clip a bolt for instance) and grab it again quickly. 2. By having the hose clamp low, you can also have the wrist leash adjusted to its shortest length. This would make it easier to use the thumb release latch while both taking it off and clipping it back on. Keeping it short will also make it less in the way when you are puting in screws and syuff like that. Disadvantage:You can barely wrap your hand around the top of the tool. Hitting the hammer with your hand to release the tool from a placement is no problem. So how about those apples- can you tell I am bored and jonesin to ice climb or what!

Nice, thanks for finding that Loren. Those Pic's get me through the day!

quote: Originally posted by David Parker: OK, here's another question directly related to newtons and ice screw belays. Assuming you have a two screw equalized belay and your tool(s) is/are hooked up as a "backup" and you are belaying the second coming up, do you belay directly off the anchors with munter or reverso (less dynamic) or do you belay off your harness with rope running through anchor down to second (more dynamic)? Obviously we know the answer for when the belay is for the leader going up. Does one (single) or two (half) ropes change your opinion? Hmmm...thats a good question, infact I was thinking about the same thing earlier today. I think that it ultamitely comes down to the quality of the screw placements. If they are in good ice(even stubbys) than they should be plenty adequate to hold the highest forces that a falling second could possibly generate(which isn't very high). You could hang a truck off two equalized screws placed in good ice. If the screw placements are crap than you have something to worry about. Better hope you have a good stance, and you better give as dynamic a belay as possible. Maybe even a hip belay. Do what ever you can to avoid weighting the anchor, and DO NOT clip the rope through it as a directional. Then find a new belay before starting the next pitch. If you belay off your harness, remember that running the rope through the anchor as a directional will double the forces that that anchor has to support, it will be holding both of you! Two 1/2 ropes would be less dynamic than one single. If you wanted more dynamicness, just belay the second up with one of the two strands. Thats my opinion, but I would be interested to hear if anyone thinks otherwise. I love talking about this techy B.S. Spray gets old quick... [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Check out the personal web page forum on this site. Also, check out the BC condition reports from last season on Bivuac.com, there are some nice photos to get you droolin! Feathered Friends is well stocked with West Coast Ice. Also, check out the Ice Fest this winter, see you up there If you have a full week, skip Lilooet and head to the Icefields PrkWy. [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Nice, seems like the year of new tools around here, I hope we all get a chance to use them soon...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Agree with David parker, I think it was Jo-Jo was soloing once and fell on a daisy chain on his belay which was 3 screws and his 3rd tool all equalized, he blew the screws and the tool held him (pick bent though). good thing he placed it eh! Huh? Fell on a daisy chain on the belay while soloing??? Thats odd... Loren-The BD catolog claims that 1KN = 224.8 lb force.As for whay the Rep meant, I'm not sure. Sometimes I will bury my tool and clip a rope into it while placing a screw. I do this when I'm getting gripped - not sure if it would hold or not, but it helps my nerves. I usualy use my tools to back up an anchor as well (might as well right?), but I'd be scared to rely on them as the main point. This is a good discusion, as I have often wondered what other people do. Takersleezy...

Glue...G.L.U.E. - thats all it is. Glue - you be the judge...

Hence the benifit of the good old Gri-Gri... Glad you guys are ok!

Like I said, they are glued in! If you want to trust yor life and your partners life to some glue than go for it High tech glue my ass. Let's think about that (suposed)1000lb strength rating. How many Kn would that be? If you remember that 1 KN = abot 222 lbs, then the strenth of the head and spike is about 5 kn. Do you think that is a sufficient anchor to hold a lead fall? If so than I guess those 26Kn locking biners are a big waste of money. It's probably fine to use the tools as a back up, but definatley not your main point. Although, in reality you will eventually run out of gear and have to belay off your tools sometime. Not to dis BD but that testing meathod sounds like BS. "Hit the tool on the curb a hundred and fifty times." Not quite the scientific meathod I'm looking for when I'm putting my life on the line... Needless to say, Cobras kick ass! [ 11-20-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Nice! I was buildering once in Chicago and all of a sudden a cop turns down the street and starts shining his light around. I got freaked and just jumped off. It was about 20ft up, man that hurt...

My knot came about %90 untied while I was leading one of the pitches on the Zodiac. I noticed it just before it was about to slip right out of my harness. I screamed like a girl