Lambone

Hmmm...thats to bad. Thanks for the info Dru, please give a shout out after you get back... I think many of us are eager to know if anything besides IcyBC is in, if even that. Bridge Creek possibly?

Somebody call in sick and go get freshies on the Back Side of Stevens for me... I'd go, but it's crunch time and I got to pass my classes!

They both work fine, but didgital beacons are faster hands down. Yes I believe it is a dual analog with two antennas inside it. It's the one to get in my opinion, but it takes a bit more knowhow than the Tracker. I like that you adjust the volume on your own. More similar to the old school beacon. The Tracker suposedly isolates multiple signals better. But lots of range is key.

Ohhh boooyyy, I could go off on Ron all day, its just sooo easy..."Yup, en den Gerwald saw da beawr and had to pwedawl sooo hward to savwe his lwittle wife..." Oh man, he just cracks me up...sure helped kill the time on some approaches though. Poor guy...I love his little letter about himself on the back of the guide. Can't blame him though, he's never been outa Montana. Oh and rat, you know whats up bro - Cody is the shit...spent some good schwily nights in the deer creek campground. Ahhh...back in the good old days!

quote: Originally posted by rat: gotta agree with both kfeck and dru, though i usually don't like to agree with kfeck. the hordes exist and the more dispersed they are, the better. keeping projects or new areas under wraps is just part of the game---if you don't like going to the same shithole every weekend, buy a map, a tank of gas, a box of beer, and do some some exploring. lambone,while i haven't ice climbed in montana yet (done some rock and alpine rock), attitudes there seem to be changing a little: witness the 2nd addition of the Big Sky Ice and the Alpine Ice and Rock books (of course the author is a guide partially/mostly trying to make a buck) and the montanaice.com website. Ron is a total freak. "Look Gerwald, fiwst ascent of da Wobbit Hole!!!" You'd have to meet him I guess...

Yeah I figured that much...but thanks anyway. Sounds like a fun event. I hope they get some crazy baddass climbers to do a slide show or something.

quote: Originally posted by trask: what about that lung device that lets you breathe when burried. anything to that? They work, but they won't work quite as well in the wet Coastal snow, better for dry Rockies powder. FF is selling last years vests for 20$ they might have some left. Regular price is like 199$ or something rediculus. I forget the statistics, but most avalanche victims die from trauma, not suffocation.

quote: Originally posted by primate: This question has come up a couple of times, but there never has been much in they way of speculation: why the fuck to avalanche transcievers cost so much? I was wanting to feel a little safer this winter, but I'm not going to shell out $200/beacon. What's up? Beacons don't just make you a little safer...if you know how to use it. Are you one of those types that would dig a climbing rope out of the trash to save a buck

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Here's a question for the knowitall out there - Are all beacons compatible??? I think ythe old frequency was 275khz and the new ones are 475khz...or something like that. They made dual frequency beacons for a while but the range was significantly less. Any beacon made in the last 4-5 years should be on 475.

quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: Marmot mountain works in Bellevue has em' for rent..10$ first day 5$ each day after Yes, so does Feathered Friends, but remember...renting a beacon will only do you any good if you know how to use it. Otherwise it is just a body recovery device. Buy one and practice using it alot if you plan on being in avy terrain. It's better to get to know your own beacon. Think of it as cheap insurance.

Rock on Cavebro...thats some dope info. I wonder if I can get a map even if I missed the fest last year...

So it sounds like last year was kind of an oddity... Nice pic flebebeb...keep 'um comin!

Does anybody know if the BC Ice Report from bivouac.com has been updated yet Info on the link I have saved in my favorites was last updated in March...Old Ice Page Please let us know if there is a new address, or as soon as they start posting conditions. Thanks

Nice JayB, thanks for adding your take on it. My partners and I are also part of the growth problem, oh well what can you do??? I gues my question stems from some of the attitude I picked up from folks in Bozeman. Mostly college punks, but also from some old schoolers(ummm... should I say it...yes, Jack Tackle). I'm not at all saying that washington folks are not friendly at climbing areas...99% of the folks I've met on both rock and ice in Wa have been super cool.(with the exception of Lil Si and 38 ) But some people, like erik (and I respect his opinion) think TR's are bogus. My take is, if you don't want to lose the adventure in your climb, don't read the TR. But I'm kinda short on spare time for climbing these days, so I'd like to know where the gettin is good... [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Sorry, class starts in two minutes. Some other time...

I'm gunna move this thread now. Do, I feel bad about that, no. I startd the thread, and I knew it would generate some spray. I wanted to get some opinions about what people think about this forum, and it seems that no one got my point, or understood my question. Dru made me laugh, dbb came close, and erik well, we all know what erik thinks... I figured I'd wait until Caveman started insulting people as usual, so the time has come. You speek for yourself Caveman, so I shall keep my mouth shut. See ya - have fun.

Cobras will plunge better for all "around use", unless you get rid of the finger catch on the rage. The cobra has more weight in the head, making it swing a little stronger. You've got pro forms now, get the cobras...

dude, no offense but that signature you got is really fuckin annoying...

Whatever man, I invited people to spray in response to my post - YOU read it again. If somebody else wants to move my thread to spray then fine, I don't care. As far as I can tell, there are no ice conditions yet so fuck it... I'll tell ya this, anytime Donna top steps name apears in a thread its outa here!

Ummm...who are you talking to caveman, would that be yourself included? I wasn't trying to come off as a hard ass, I was just trying to encourage some discusion...since some of us out here like to bullshit about something that goes into more depth than brainless one-liners. If you are talking about erik, than I would agree, he is just another self righteous rastafarian types... Jah love brah "In the end it all piles up to one big nothing at all" DM

Freinds have told me that Moonlight is is pretty fun clean aid. Faily easy, but I don't know about the free section. the key beta I can offer is DON'T HAUL! Blast it in a day or you will be hating life. Good Luck Cavey, i'm jealous...

nice

I learned to ice climb in Montana where old school locals like to keep their prized routes a secret. Many will never offer beta, or (even worse) offer false beta in order to keep other climbers away from their coveted routes (both projects, and/or routes that haven't been done in years). My personal opinion is that this kind of attitude sucks ass... I am definitely all for the posting of route conditions and beta on routes, new areas, approaches, access issues, etc... Many people will argue that putting this kind of info on the web will only increase the popularity of ice climbing, and thus create crowded routes, but I don't think this is necessarily true... I think that ice climbing has already gained popularity, and will continue to gain popularity in the future. The routes will be crowded regardless, unless people have other options to fall upon. This makes the availability of route information and conditions even more important than ever before! I think that the more knowledge climbers have about existing conditions, the more distributed they will be among all the available or "in" routes. For instance, Drury Falls is one of only two routes featured in Selected Climbs of the Cascades I, and is probably the most popular ice route in the state. Are there only two ice climbs in the Cascade Range (excluding Banks and Tieton)??? Obviously not, but people don’t know about many other routes… My point is, once Alex finishes up his guidebook, and if climbers post conditions of routes all around the state here, I think we will see less “herding” at routes like Drury and Alpental I. What do y’all think? Agree, disagree, don’t care, SPRAY ON cause until it gets colder there ain’t nuthin to climb anyway! Of course this theory goes to shit in the pre-season, because everybody is going to be top roping IcyBC as soon as it’s climbable!

Cool, I may be up there with Matt. Lets hook up for some beer and pool. Strength in numbers! Hopefully stuff will be in otherwise were bound to run into each other, and everyone else at the ice. But hey, the more the merrier right? We all got the same passion for pain.

Really...sweet, I never knew there was any ice in there. You should post more details and/or photos in the Ice Conditions forum!