rr666

Lookin for some climbing this saturday. Preferably trad or aid, lead up to 5.10b/c, but would be up to some sport (5.11) as well. Index, Leavenworth, others, drop me a pm or email. I may be able to get out of here Friday night if you want to camp. Michael

quote: Originally posted by pete a: check the trip reports from a couple weeks ago. A couple parties (including a group I was in) made it up the west ridge. At the time the NW face still had tons of snow on it, and my party as well as the other we saw descended the west ridge via raps and simul-downclimbing...thats what I'd recommend. Photo from the trip I was on here: http://www.jeffstreet.net/Climbing/2002-06-15%20%20Forbidden%20Peak/triprepo rt_selected_photos.htm Great pics. There is a hell of a lot more snow than when I was up there last year. Wow, what a difference

Last year I was told it was easier to head down the east ridge, but we just ended up dropping our gear at the notch and rapping/simul-downclimbing the west ridge. It went quick and easy.

You haven't driven my truck yet: 1953 Studebaker Pick-up!!

Slab climbing in the rain has got to be the best thing around!!!

Matt, If I was not stuck in LA, I would be there in an instance. Should be back in town next week, and will probably want (actually need) to take a day off... Michael

unfortunately i am working today, my partner is planning on picking me up at 4, and we would be out there by 4:30, but i don't want to waste the time if it is going to be wet. rodeo, you are itchn' to climb today ain't ya, i will let you know if we decide to head out there and you can join us. if i didn't have to work tomorrow i would jump at climbin at 11worth...

anyone know? I don't want to end up at the gym tonight...

OUCH!!!!

Climbing up at Blueberry hill yesterday with Matt was just great!!! Good times were really had by all. The area is beautiful, the granite is solid, the climbing wonderful. The long approach slabs and the few mossy spots on top were easily forgotten. Getting up there was well worth it!!!

Yea! I almost always have one girthed into my harness. great for many things. Tie into anchor with it and a clove hitch on the rope. The length is easily adjustable, and are very handy for things like starting rappelling for all us chickens out there. my vote is for them.

A good friend of mine that I actually got into climbing a few years back has been working for BD for about 3 years now. He is enjoying the hell out of it. He says everyone there climbs. After work and weekends, everyone is always taking trips to ice climb, rock climb, you name it. I have climbed with them a couple of times, and they are all great people, and into creating the best gear they can at the best quality.

Thanks freeclimb9, I thought BD came out with a flexible cam prior to wild country. Guess I was wrong And yes, you are very right the mags do make gear sell.

Every cam has its ups and downs. We can argue which is better, and read all of the different reviews. But when it really comes down to it, it is what you feel comfortable with. I suggest finding some friends with different cams, and go climb with them. Play around with the cams in different placements and see what you like best. One can say most people on this site prefer BD camalots, metolius TCUs and aliens, but aren't they some of the ones that have been around the longest as well. (yes friends have been around longer, but I think they stuck with the rigid friend too long, and lost out on some great opportunity). I know that I have not studied the history and marketplace and all that jazz, but what I see is all of the other companies copying the designs of these three. While the three have continued to improve on the designs, others just follow... Well back to my point, if I really have one, buy what you are most comfortable placing, and falling on and have fun.

Any body know if he is going to make it up here to Seattle? I would really enjoy seeing him talk.

I have used OP 'biners for a long time. I do not have any of their newer ones, but like the old one a bunch, especially for the price. When they went to the ISO cold forged design though, the gate clearance really shrunk down. They are cheap and light, but I would not recommend them. I am planning on buying some of their omegalights, or JC's soon. The Doval's look interesting also. Might grab a couple of those to try asl well.

Stu

quote: Originally posted by Dru: have you ever noticed that no one refers to moderate sport climbs by name, only by grade? You mean to tell me that sport climbs actually have names

I am curious what all you aid climbers out there use as your 'biner of choice. So far I have always taken the approach that I already have enough 'biners, why should I buy more. However, aid climbing requires many biners, and there is a lot of weight to be saved... If I buy more, I might grab a few wires, but can they handle aid climbing, or do the wires get bent to s$*@#...

hmmmmm, alpine666 has a nice ring!

Stone Gardens is closer to my place, so I go there, plus I hear it is cheaper... It is also not quite as big, but they both get crowded... SG does have more bouldering than VW, but less lead climbs and TR's. I think those are the basic reasons.

quote: Originally posted by erik: all i was doing was making an oberservation, next thing i know hiwerwa and sloppy were hitting on me.....i am inncoent!!! as usuall!!! Well I gotta say that I do agree with your observation. There are a few groups that are always sociallizing, then there is the rest of us who don't know anybody there and we just climb!!

we can start the whole anti-gym thread all over. my basic opinion is that gyms really suck compared to real rock, but when it is all you have to get a pump and stay in shape, I will take it. I go to climb rather than socialize. I would very much rather be out at Index jamming up a crack than pulling on plastic any day.

I try to head there once or twice a week as I live less than a couple miles from it... Usually Tuesday/Thursday night generally around 7 or 8, unless I can get there early and miss the crowds... When do you usually show up? I am always willing to belay and hit the routes rather than staying on the ground bouldering. I am the guy with curly long blond hair, and a rasta colored chalk bag. Give me a shout if you see me there. Michael

stupidity