Matt_Anderson

Got on it yesterday - Bobby's right, this route is spectacular - Don't need anything bigger than a #3 for the first pitch, but bring a #4 anyway to TR the offwidth 15 feet to the left - it's a whole lot of fun (You'd probably want a #5 or tube chock to lead the route to the left . . .)

agree w/ Distel re: making it a bouldering wall - It'll be no fun climbing up and down in a 4 foot corridor. It's the sideways movement that really helps you make more variety and fun in the limited space of a home wall. Try to use other home walls and find out how you like them and what mistakes/good. If you're still motivated, it might make better use of the limited space to make it a system wall. No more variety to the moves, but measuring your progress may help w/ motivation. (If you start working regularly on a system wall, you'll see pretty immediate progress. 6 feet wide would be great for a system wall, you probably want 8 feet at a minimum for bouldering. Re: t-nuts - If you want bouldering, I like a random grid - as close as you can imagine placing holds. For a system wall, you want them at regular intervalls, or even better, get a router and make your own wooden holds. . .

Re: time of year - Yes, It'll be wet for a good long while, but there is also a huge advantage to descending on snow all the way to the lake. With snow, the descent to the lake took about 30 minutes. Without, it would take longer and be a lot less pleasant. Also the approach was pretty nice in the snow. The only part of the climb that the wetness effects is the long crack in the corner and the traverse under the roof. The long crack has only partial wetness, and is so positive that it's pretty easy to deal with. The traverse did suck - I hung and I think my partner did also. If you aren't going to free the traverse, I'd probably rather do it in semi wet conditions with the easy descent. I think it's a bit of a toss up even if you are freeing it - just depends on how much you hate wet rock. The traverse will be soaked. Also, if it is wet up there, do everything you can to not belay under the roof. It's really cool up there, but the cold and wet sucked the life right out of me. Better to link those pitches if possible.

If the envelope wasn't even opened, then the court or post office probably considers it an addressing error. You should check their web site for information on how to contact them (not sure where dog mountain is, but here's a web site for the Dist. Court for the Eastern District of Washington: http://www.waed.uscourts.gov/. You should be able to find similar sites for the court you need to contact. Call them first and find out how they want you to address the letter and to whom.) Understand that parties to an action (that's you) are not allowed to communicate with the court without including the other side. Policies vary with regard to how this is enforced relating to mundane scheduling matters. Since you may be asking to have the matter go away, it is unlikely to be considered a mundane scheduling matter, but rather a substantive commuication requiring the inclusion of the other side. You indicated in your first post that the notice mentioned arrest if you failed to show. As such this is most likely considered a criminal matter. You may wish to contact the U.S. Attorney's office for that district instead of the court. It's likely that they are "the other side" and you may be able to reach an agreement with or get information from them. This website contains the contact info for various US. Attorney's Offices: http://www.usdoj.gov/usao/offices/. Necessary disclaimer so I don't get in trouble: I am not your attorney, I am not providing legal advice, I am not competent to practice law in the federal system. The best advice I can give you is to go find a lawyer who is admitted to practice in front of the court that you need to appear at and ask him to represent you. He will have an ethical duty to keep your interests paramount. While I like to be helpful, I have no such duty.

I like the little silver space blanket bags. I have a bivy sac, but never bring it, just keeping those silver bags in the pack in case it rains. Course - I rarely bivy in the snow - YUsually just on long rock routes.

Anyone been to the trailhead in the last week? My partner and I are trying to decide whether to bring his superswank sporty car or my lest comfy but more reliable (in the snow) truck or subaru. Anyone been on the snow in the enchantments in the last week? The temps have been consistently been >freezing during the day and < freezing at night, so I'm assuming that conditions would be decent for a day trip to Prusik, bringing snow shoes. Am I high? Will we wallow? Thanks!

Realize that if you send in a pass that wasn't yours and pass it off as yours that you may be committing a number of crimes, some of them felonies. Depending on the details of how you do it, the potential crimes include obstruction, forgery, perjury and others (these are the correct crime names under state law, Federal statutes are likely a bit different). The federal system is known for having more significant penalties (jail and/or fines). Additionally, forgery and perjury (and some other potential crimes) are considered crimes of dishonesty, which may adversely impact future employment possibilities. You may want to take a step back and think about whether it's worth it. Civil disobedience is one thing. Lying to get out of a fine that you knew you were required to pay is unlikely to be viewed as civil disobedience by a judge.

sure enough. Check out: http://access.wa.gov/news/2005/Apr/n2005312_9324.aspx http://www.ecy.wa.gov/news/2005news/2005-086.html Looks like a whole bunch of water leaked out and they have stopped the local irrigation district from patching it and letting it fill back up until engineers can access the integrity of the dam. No mention of plans to close the trail at this time . . .

FYI - Here is the best article I have found on the injuries - It's done by a german doctor who appears to work for a hospital that is the place to go for climbing injuries in Germany. Of course, that place doesn't exist in the states . . . http://www.wemjournal.org/wmsonline/?req...014-02-0094-f01 edit: It also contains a bibliography of just about all other related articles on the subject.

Just bringing this to the top . . .

So I'm pretty sure I've aggravated my pully ligament in my right hand middle finger - Open hand is painless, crimps hurt, pain is localized to the second joint from the end and the belly of the finger, closer to the hand (proximal to the joint). I don't think it is horribly torn, but it sure is aggravated and strained, possibly a bit worse. I noticed it about a month ago and got worse towards the end of last week, when I wasn't resting enough, got sick and did 20 laps on rainy day in a morning/afternoon. (I originally thought is was just a little bit of tendonitis - there never was a trauma that I associated with the onset). Currently, I'm not able to crimp hard with right hand. MY QUESTION IS: Has anyone healed a strained/torn pully ligament like this while continuing to climb seriously? I know the general recommendation for most tendon/ligament injuries is six weeks off, combine with other modalities (light exercise of it + icing). I don't want to do that unless it becomes unbearable, in large part because this is the first summer in a long time where I'm going to be able to commit to working on my goals (long, hard (for me) free routes) and I really don't want to take the time off. On the other hand, if I'm going to have to take the time off regardless, I would consider biting the bullet now instead of next winter (or in the middle of the summer if it gets really bad). Finally, any resources for the latest thoughts on taping to support this injury? Thanks

I also like the Misty mountain. I'm sure that the Yates is more comfy (it's wider), but the double rows of loops are the biggest plus - I'll never go back to harnesses with just one row.

If you want to buy enough, it's not that hard to get wholesale pricing from gear manufacturers. I just wrote them, told them how much I intended to spend and asked if they could give me a discount. Both places I asked gave me wholesale pricing, no questions asked.

My dream gym would be close enough so that I could just slip on my fuzzy sheepskin slippers, walk in the back yard and climb with a few of my closes friends. I Think it would look a little like this: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9943&size=big&sort=1&cat=507 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9942&sort=1&size=big&cat=507 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9944&sort=1&size=big&cat=507 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9941&sort=1&size=big&cat=507 and, of course, a little storage/workspace for making holds and doing other little household chores . . . http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=9945&sort=1&size=big&cat=507

to Beta Dave

My coop bought a bunch of holds from these guys. (https://www.sequenceclimbing.com/product.aspx) They make the holds with the three dots on them for product labelling. Good holds. Great price (and they were willing to work with us on pricing for a large order) Fantastic Customer service (Prompt replies, sent us some sample holds so we could feel their texture, threw in some extra foot holds 'cause he thought we needed them, shipped within a couple of days of order - [Voodoo, by contrast will take a few weeks). And, of course, friendly canadians. I think they are just starting out. They deserve your business. matt

Les Calanques does kick ass. I stayed in Cassis for 2 weeks 5 years ago and climbed almost entirely in Les Calanque with a few days at Buoux. I posted about the Calanques a while ago. Check out this thread. My post is at the bottom of the page. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...=true#Post37914 I recall climbing at a cliff quite near the town of Cassis, probably walking distance. My recollection is that it was the least compelling cliff that I climbed on my two week trip in France (It wasn't horrible, but there are a whole bunch of truly amazing cliffs further from town). I would encourage you to go further afield. There is (or was) a guidebook called Les Calanques which I imagine you could find without to much trouble on the web. Enough in it to keep you busy for a year. Check out http://www.cosiroc.org for more information.

Leaving for 3 full days of climbing in a couple of weeks. Have the logistics all handled, but would like info on the climbs. I understand that we can get a home grown guide book when we get there, but would like to dream in the meantime. Anybody know where I can find beta? Hoping for multipitch in the .11 range, + or -. Yes, I have found the descriptions for "space boys" - curious if anything else is available online. There was an article on it in one of the mags a while ago. Anybody remember which rag, which issue? (I probably have, just haven't gotten around to finding it . . . Thanks!

I've heard the Seattle Library gets it (rumor). Also, issue 0 is on line on their site.

Tell her you need money to pay for a self esteem self-help program, spend the money on a subscription that is sent to a friend's place.

So I used to go to the Main Index page and then select the most recent threads or last 48 threads, or something like that link and was transported to a page that had a list of the most recent threads. Now I go to the main index page and the only thing that is close is the view most recent messages link. It looks to me like the box that contained the most recent threads link was replaced by the stats box? (not really sure, I never pay much attention to something I like until it is gone). I liked the old way better because I wouldn't have to see some thread that got 20 posts over and over, it was just a single line. What happened? Am I missing something? Probably so, I've been on vacation the last week and 1/2. thanks, matt

Not solicited, but I looked at both the forester and the wagon and decided on the forester. The forester has more head room and comparable storage (the extra head room makes up for the lack of length). It handles MUCH better and is supposed to have a bit more clearance. 2-3 folks for a weekend is no problem. Four takes some creative pacing

Hang boards are effective for building grip strength, but you need to be REALLY motivated to use them regularly. Otherwise, they just sit there. If you get one, make sure that you put it in the most pleasant, accessible, entertaining area of you house (you know, the window that looks out at the strip bars) or you will never use it. I use the Synrock tiles, A whole bunch of grips and good texture are the pluses.

OhmyGoddoesanyoneactuallythinkthismatters?youallarejustmakingupthingstoworryabout

Thanks for the responses. Randy has been climbing a long time, but isn't climbing as much as he used to these days. He's actually over there right now - any information on where to get a guide book or directions to the climbing?