Matt_Anderson

Another Man's car - is that the pitch to the left of the start of Lamplighter? If so, it's mid .11. Interesting that a flake fell out - makes the reference to 5.10 in the old guide book make a bit more sense.

How was scarface altered after Franklin climbed it?

My recollection is that Franklin took a crow bar to a large flake because the flake made the climb easier than he wanted. His activities created the scar that is the climb's name sake. I'd heard he was set on doing a .14. Ironically, I hear most people who do it consider it .13d, not .14. Disclaimer - based on long ago reading of the Smith guidebook, rumor, inuendo, etc.

wasn't that the whole point of scarface?

FYI - ins. fraud is a felony, regardless of amount. . .

in the interest of full disclosure, someone emailed me and said: I suppose to the extent that my opinion is based on how much fear I remember, that could be relevant. Really, my opinion is the same, how scared I get on a route doesn't really justify me putting a bolt on a Croft route. If croft clipped a sling, then moving it is probably the right answer. If a hold broke, same deal. If anyone reading this is wondering why the hell this is relevant they can read my orig post, or (probably better) ignore it, I'm just a sucker for full disclosure. . .

I remember trying it onsight about 5 years ago (I failed). I was quite puckered at the roof and remember thinking that there was some horn that stuck up that I was worried about impacting. Eventually, I bypassed the moves at the roof by aiding a move or two to the right and then traversing back to the bolt. I’m not sure if I actually took the falls before bailing out right. (Maybe SC remembers – I was climbing w/ him – thanks for the belay). If I did, I apparently wasn’t hurt, cause I would remember that. Regardless, I apparently decided I wasn’t willing to continue to take them – that’s why I bailed. My recollection of the bolt above the roof is that once you got through the difficult moves and established with your feet above the roof, you could either clip the bolt or only had a relatively easy move or two b/f clipping. As I recall, the main thing I brought back from the experience was beware repeating the first ascents of a well-known soloist. If Croft led the thing w/ a sling because the bolt was poorly placed, then maybe the bolt is a candidate for being moved, not supplemented. (If so, was the bolt just placed carelessly be a free climber or was it originally an aid bolt? – If it was an aid bolt, then there is some honor in not drilling an extra hole just to make it that much easier to onsight.) If a flake actually did break, then perhaps either supplementation or moving of the bolt is merited (I’d be a bit surprised to hear that was the case – I recall the holds being pretty solid there, but maybe my memory is bad.). I don’t think the climbing after that point is all that bad or poorly protected, moving it may be a compromise that would make sense. Either way, we should err on the side of not drilling extra hole in the rock. While that bolt is not placed optimally for free climbing, it is not horribly unsafe (I haven’t heard of any injuries). Additionally, you can bypass it by the moves out to the right (like I did) or top roping from either climbs. Just because hind sight shows that a bolt wasn’t that well placed doesn’t mean that we should go drilling extra bolts and changing climbs absent clear safety imperatives (whatever that is). . . . Summary: Don’t drill a new hole unless there’s clear evidence of hold breakage or Croft clipped a sling in the first place. If you do drill a new hole, please remove and fill the bolt/hole that is currently there unless the moves to the next pro are unsafe.

bump

Anybody wanna get on Sisu tomorrow? (6-7 pitch bolted mid .11 on upper town wall). I can lead all pitches or swing leads. Would also be open to similar trad routes (generally prefer them, but have an itch in my craw for Sisu tomorrow). It's supposed to be cooler tomorrow, but an early start would still be good to get through the slopey first pitch. Injuries, relationships and trips have taken a toll on my cadre of available long, free route partners.

Is that the South Nesakwatch spire I was asking about earlier?

You wondered: and After you ask: They probably didn't realize that you thought that it was: to ask a question when you the answer. They also probably don’t realize that you and are seriously lacking in empathy. They quite likely don’t realize that when they simply answer the question of a complete stranger that that stranger will determine that they don’t know how to Perhaps if all you want to know is if they are having fun, you could ask them a more specific question, much like the people that Knotzen runs into. Or you could just accept the fact that some people are goal oriented and when they don't reach a goal they gave themselves, it affects how it's going for them. Some of those people are also polite enough share a little bit about themselves. They might also assume that any idiot can see that: of their own volition and pretty much by definition having fun but be unaware that letting you know they didn't reach the summit would cause you to label their entire day a: . If they did, they might give you the unsolicited advice to

This year, just like the last ten, I've never seen anything coming off the wall. Just the same, there's always some glass on the ground on the left hand side of the wall, and the car parts are still up on that ledge to the left of Tempichous.

Mebbe's Jesse's right and I just bonked . . . I do know the rest of the route seemed pretty easy, but I was leading all day, and the route was about all that my conditioning at the time could take, so exchaustion could have started fucking w/ my head. Mebbe we're talking about a dif't pitch . . .

How much for the neutrinos, hot wires, thermarest closed cell pad (which size is it?), and holds (any links for which ones you have?)? thanks!

That sounds about right, so maybe a 5 or 6 camalot . . .

Thanks for the reminder - I said: "you've got ankle breaker and/or reaaaally long fall potential on 5.10 climbing" From that I think I meant that there was a ledge that I was worried about, but not sure if I would hit (either because it may have been possible to push out past it or because I wasn't sure if I would fall that far.). Re: which finish I was on/which pitch I'm talking about - I don't remember, but will try to take a look at the guide boodk to refresh my recollection. I know the pitch that I was on was a face or arete, defeinitely not a dihedral. The pitch I was looking at was a dihedral. I'd guess you'd need a #4 or 5 camalot for it, but it's been a long time. . .

Left at 6:00, got back around 3:30 - the wife was quite happy. Thanks for all the beta - it was a lovely climb and my friend had great time as well. Re: temps - we finished the top pitch around noon. The rock had heated up by then, but not to bad. As we rapped down to the lower angle lower pitches, the rock heated up pretty significantly.

I don't remember it being a corner, but I do remember some 5.9 or 5.10 face towards the end that had some relatively dramatic runouts. There was a big wide corner to the right of it that I was eyeing wistfully (but I ddin't have any big gear either. I don't know if it was exhaustion or just that it was quite run out, but I led all the other pitches and had no problems, except a slip in one wet section. Taht was the only pitch that gave me pause.

Thanks everybody - We'll probably figure out where we're going to go on the way there. Likely to bake on one of the slabs - Castle Rock's a great idea, but something new has quite an alure.

Re: temps - We're thinking about leaving around 6:00, so getting there 8:30 - 9:00. He follows pretty quick, so we were thinking we'd miss most of the horrible temps. Still no go advice?

I was planning on doing online. I'll take a look at total soul if its in Sky Valley or Washington Rock.

Thanks both!

Plan to go to Static Point early on Saturday for a friend's first multipitch before he leaves the country for a year. I have commitments that require me to get back in Seattle by 4:00. The beta I have is in Washington Rock Climbs. Anybody have any comments on getting to the crag so we don't waste time on the way there? (never been). Any suggestions regarding how long it'll take a first timer to get there from downtown seattle?.

Index - Lamplighter - holds to the right stop most of it being a proper squeeze, but the business is a squeeze. Also, just to the right is an .11 offwidth. Again, a couple of usable features on one side (I won't tell you which way to face) reduce the difficulty - good thing, both cracks overhang 1 - 15 feet. . .

I went out there with some people who had been there b/f. Calling the most efficient way to get to the crag a trail implies that the trail is a whole lot more permanant and helpful than it is. You won't lose that much time schwackin, just be ready to get your toes (and calves) muddy. My memory is that the cave is significantly larger than PP remembers. It didn't seem to me that 90 feet was so far off. That said, the place will primarily appeal to people who climb solid .12 and have climbed out the local cragging opportunities at their level. There are better and more convenient sportclimbing oppourtunities in the area.