bigwallben

UWall isn't soft.

Stoner's Highway.

a weenie that's brown on the end is not metaphorical, it's simply sexyyyyyyyyy. huh?

yes, what is up with the burn weenie. is this metaphorical?

ah yeahs busted!

so. fucking. busted! busted dude. sir william is pissed.

so what is this all about? and shouldn't you be out training....

Dave, that anchor was completely bogus. This wasn't an issue of trying to make the washington all arounder climb "harder". It was simply extra hardware that was didn't need to be there. I believe the remover of those anchors didn't fill in his holes though, which is the only negative thing I can see in this situation. I predict this thread will reach epic size. Too bad.

That is funny. I lived in Mammoth 2001 and climbed with Taka at the ORG. He was a great guy. Not sure where he is at now.

Thanks for the responses guys. I tried this thing one snowy day six or seven years ago back when I didn't have any biz being on it. But a couple weeks ago I walked to the base and rekindled some interest. It will be interesting to see what the difficulty is. The Jeff's article definitely makes it sound like Todd sandbagged this one. I know that he had some significantly harder climbs downrated around the time of the FFA and so the 12d grade might be in response. Anyhow, Todd was a friend and I am psyched to do some of his routes. He was truly the most motivated climber I have ever met.

Thanks. So, sounds like nobody on this site has redpointed it; or perhaps they are too humble to comment.

Second ascent? The guide reads unrepeated. True? False? Rumor has it that perhaps Dan Lepeska did this thing? Has anyone who frequents this site tried? What was it like?

Thanks for giving that thing a scrub Jens!

Just an fyi: Jap p1-4 are all completely clean. The last two anchors have been replaced by the human mullet. Regarding technicians...I scrubbed the first crux pitch. It is still completely climbable. Yes, some small shrubery show up on the final .10 section...but if you can get there, I don't think it will stop you. Also, if you are linking Japanese through upper TPVM, it is Clean. Very Very clean. I made a scrub mark you can probably see from the top of Mt. Index. Climbed this linkup for the first time a month ago. It is a great linkup offering interesting 5.11 climbing. Go get em peeps.

Small world. I met James Lucas one year after the accident, while he was still limping around and just starting to climb again. I'd heard that he was free soloing 5.9's when he could barely climb 5.10b at the time. Is that true? No.

Has this crack seen a second ascent?

Where is this? Australia somewhere I think... Passport to insanity. Australia. 12-

There is a no hands butt scum just before pulling over the last bulge. This climb would definitely be 12a at squampton.

The 'grand' dries super fast...not so sure about the other. Do cruel shoes through the grand Dave. Classic. The upper pitches on the Black Dike however...are not classic. Ben

I'm going to say Snake Dike if you have not climbed in the great ditch before. Great hike, views, climbing...just know that weekends are the worst time to be climbing anything 5.10 and below, and of average or high quality. If you want an adventure and solace...perhaps try arrowhead arete.

No,crowded areas are bullshit. with routes from 5.10 to 5.12, chances of being crowded ever = 0% I predict this cliff with basic sport-tug routes will be crowded once everyone is in the know.

No,crowded areas are bullshit.

Buy one of these: If I recall correctly, my alarm woke me up at 630am. Thanks for the advice though. Ben

-Japenese Gardens p2, p3 p4. -Stiff Kittens -Cheesburgers on Trial -TPMV p2, p3, p4 -Trout Farm Massacre. -Journey to Pitar The natural approach for all these pitches is Japenese Gardens. Godzilla, Princley through Newest and the GNS are also options but most of the time are jammed. One could get there from the Middle Wall...but that would take hours. Did TPMV's upper pitches last weekend and the aid climbers racking up at the base of Japanese were kind enough to let us through. Thank you to whoever that was. The amount of days that I have gone to the lower wall to climb these upper pitches and had to scrap those plans because of mega huge top rope parties dominating the first 50' of Japenese gardens is staggering. I'm hopeful that someday those climbers who love to hangout on this small chunk of amazing stone will realize what lies above, and that there are potentially climbers who would love to get up there. I didn't remove the anchor but I do support the removal of this anchor. This is a bottleneck problem. That said, I understand the much larger majority of Index enthusiasts who just can't wait till the weekend to camp out beneath Japanese Short and test their mettle on one of the shortest 10a's around. Happy Climbing! Ben Gilkison

I'm sorry to say that I will be in Zion...I will try to be good by scrubbing up routes later this summer.