glacier

What, you guys turning this into a drinking club with a climbing problem, or what?

lessee - mid-80's era hexes and a couple of kong ovals and rei/omega locking D's of the same vintage.

Watching the weather - preferably heading south, since it will be a few weeks before I can bust down there again.

Hueco Tanks, baybee! Bloody flappers and ostrich fajitas comin' up.

Johnny Cash's 'Rusty Cage' and 'I Won't Back Down' Mighty Mighty Bosstones - 'Enter Sandman' Asylum Street Spankers - 'Darling Nikki' Flatirons - 'Crazy Train' (country-blues version - female vocal) Cardigans - 'Iron Man' (just for the amusement factor) and Return of the Grievous Angel - Gram Parsons tribute album, especially Cowboy Junkies' 'Las Vegas'

A response to comments I wanted to put in an EIS I worked on a couple years back... WORST-CASE SCENARIO: The Sun goes Red Giant (odds – approximately 1 in next 5 billion years). POTENTIAL IMPACTS: Engulfs Earth. All atoms comprising Earth either fuel continued atomic combustion of sun, or are ionized to approximate density in space of 1 hydrogen atom per cubic meter.

Did anyone else listen to the 'Science Friday' today on NPR - had a discussion of skewed scientific advisors for the Administration.

Hey Muffy, here's your study... drunk women

homemade cliff/protein bars

lessee, milk crate full of random shit I use for field sampling duffle bag with rain gear, boots, hard hat tire chains, jumper cable, tow strap, fire extinguisher, 1st aid - the usual beaten up atlas and Washington Gazetteer Prism designs 'Fanatic' kite cheater stick toy salamandar and beanie baby chameleon (spirit animals?)

Lessee, the folks gave me a socket set and floor mats for the new truck, but the big score was a bottle of 16-y.o. Lagavulin that showed up unbidden from a couple of friends. Oh, and bought myself a pair of Rossi Race 2's and a Mtn Hardware jacket.

I dunno, but I've had this one up for two years at the ol' cube farm. calenduh

Actually, the most humorous thing I've found regarding Pysht are two topographic maps - the 7.5 minute quad containing Pysht is, of course, the 'Pysht' quadrangle. And the next quad west is the 'West of Pysht' quadrangle. Apparently someone at the USGS was having a slow day.

I used polyethylene tubing (e.g. Tygon) with some stiff accessory cord for mine - worked well and held up over a few seasons before I swapped harnesses.

I'm over the eggshells I've been walking on My eggshell walking days are done I don't give a fuck about the apple cart I'll upset everyone Don't tell me on what or where to walk my friend You once did, but those days are gone I'm so over the eggshells The ones that I've been walking on Walking on, I'm waking up Waking up, I'm walking out Waking up and walking out on you! You're under the assumption I'll be moving on Assuming it's the next move that I'll make You've figured out I'm heading out Now we're both wide awake So rise and shine former friend of mine Did you ever think this day would dawn You can trust your assumptions Damn right I'm moving on Moving on, I'm waking up Waking up, I'm walking out Waking up and walking out on you Walking on, Im waking up Waking up, I'm walking out Waking up and walking out on you! I'm over the eggshells I've been walking on My eggshell walking days are gone I'm so over the eggshells The ones that I've been walking on Walking on, I'm waking up Waking up, I'm walking out Waking up and walking out on you Walking on, I'm waking up Waking up, I'm walking out Waking up and walking out on you! Walking on Waking up Walking on I'm Walking

Antidote, by Pain Tony's got a botfly in his forehead Jenny's got a guinea worm in her shoe Dave's got leeches, Mike's got flu, Everybody's got a parasite, I've got you. First date: we thought it was great We drank and we ate. We stayed up real late. Next week we hit our peak Making the bedsprings creak. And now, one month later. Tony's got a botfly in his forehead Jenny's got a guinea worm in her shoe Dave's got leeches, Mike's got flu, Everybody's got a parasite, I've got you. I guess that's what I get For being a jerk instead of cooling my jets You were a wolf in a sheepskin Playing for keeps and I lost And now, twenty years later Tony's got a botfly in his forehead Jenny's got a guinea worm in her shoe Dave's got leeches, Mike's got flu, Everybody's got a parasite, I've got you. I've got you! I've got you! Somebody tell me what to do Should I try a bit of vinegar? Has someone got an antidote? Band-aids, cyanide, hydrogen peroxide, Rum and coke if nothing else will do Everybody's got a parasite, I've got you. Tony's got a botfly in his forehead Jenny's got a guinea worm in her shoe Dave's got leeches, Mike's got flu, Everybody's got a parasite, I've got you.

Fri> Put up requisite Charlie Brown tree, compliments of Chubby & Tubby (R.I.P.). Sat> Drank too much wine while decorating tree - up later than expected. Motorcycle show to ogle the new rides and try on some new head armor. Hop between party and show at the Tractor. Sun> Run, move furniture, shop for loot for the folks, attend the viewing of one of those very successful franchise movies.

I recall reading a climbing narrative a few years back of a pair of brits nabbing the 1st free ascent of some now-classic 5.10 dihedral. They arrived during rain to find the rock wet, so the leader doffed his shoes and climbed in his wool socks. About 1/2-way up he dropped his hammer, nearly cold-cocking his belayer. With no second hammer to place pins, a half-conscious belayer, and no chance to downclimb in the wet conditions his quote, at this point, was, "I had no choice but to retreat upward." Oh, and I believe that Hillary and Tenzing chopped steps on their ascent of Everest - no front points.

One word - Legos

TLG, Ya, I hate to fall, too, and constantly work on separating my climbing from the concept of falling. People will recommend that you take jumpers on bolts or gear to get past it, but the real issue is separating or accepting the fear/consequence and focussing on the climbing, placements, rests, etc. Secondly, a headworker I was talking with recently asked my to look at a fall/accident in this context: "...but what did that experience give you?" - rather than focussing on what the experience may have taken away (i.e. confidence).

The two things that most affected my lead ability were consistency and attitude - Consistency - I didn't break into (and past) the 5.10 numbers until I was in a place where I could both train and climb consistently so I could build on past successes and setbacks. Hitting the gym, crosstraining, and getting out regularly for full weekends made the difference. Second was attitude and recognizing that I could get on those routes- probably one of my best days with regard to this was a day at Smith several years back when a friend and I started at Teddy bear's Picnic as a warmup and essentially climbed every sport route up to .11c from there up to Misery Ridge. That day really expanded my concept of what I could get on successfully, and I had a basis for seeking out other routes.