glacier

Its all about getting a little head Widgets Rule!

Although you have to admit that Larry Flynt is technically more qualified to run for the governor of a large state than an actor as he has: a) run a successful business, and b) been involved in a case involving defense of the Constitution (1st Amendment). Although he may be a bit against the 2nd Amendment. I doubt that he fears being too classy for his readers, tho'

Did you hear that Hustler wants to publish topless photos of her taken at a beach prior to her deployment? There's classy.

Yeah I haven't seen the Cremasters series, I need to at some point. What did you think of it? I only saw the most recent one (#3?) - it was definitely visually stunning, and adequately disturbing in parts. I found it to be a bit self-indulgent overall. I have friends who have seen the whole series - Re: the Greenaway movies - I liked Prospero's Books - Again, primarily for its visual impact. But I was also in a mode of watching many Shakespeare movie adaptations and interpretations at the time. Speaking of which - anyone seen 'Scotland, PA?'

My best response to all that was to take my 2WD Nissan through axle deep mud on a job site for two days in a row - mud on the roof, the whole works, then take it out on a Friday night and park it next to the tallest, shiniest 4WD I could find.

Penberthy invented the Whisperlight (or its prototype). Climbing mag had a 'Hard Man Quiz' several years back - I think I have a copy of it hiding in my bookcase - multiple choice questions regarding belays (e.g. ledge vs. tied off to front bumper of Saab w/ Dire Straits on the deck), meals ("Some perfectly good rolls someone threw away..."), etc.

Yeah - the Peter Greenaway films are a bit disturbing, but awesome to look at - just watched "The Pillow Book" I don't think anyone has mentioned 'Adaptation" - I haven't seen it, but it is about a man writing a screenplay about a non-fiction book (the Orchid Thief), and some general weirdness. Donnie Darko - Schitzophrenic teenager, time travel, and an evil bunny. Matthew Barney's Cremaster art films and "the Muppets Take Manhatten"

Allright- long summer of boring fieldwork with plenty o' downtime, so, a partial list. Days of Salt and Rice, Kim Stanley Robinson Dracula, Bram Stoker The Butlerian Jihad, Herbert and Anderson 48 Laws of Power, can't remember #1 Lady's detective Agency (actually one of the most engaging characters I've read in a long time) Last of the Amazons, Pressfield Catcher in the Rye, Salinger The Invisible Man, Wells Otherworld, Tad Williams on deck... Count of Monte Cristo Fat White Vampire Blues The Dispossessed, Le guin More of the 'Lady's detective agency' books

...and don't run around the pool with scissors less than 30 minutes after you've eaten.

Nah, takin' it from a tribe.

'If I only had a brain...'

Just finished 'The Years of Salt and Rice' by Kim Stanley Robinson, 'Invisible Man' by H.G. Wells, 'Sword & Brush' by Dave Lowry, 'The Persistence of Vision' by John Varley, 'Jennifer Government' by Max Barry, a couple of Carl Hiassen books, and started picking through a Norton Anthology of Short Fiction. Yeah, slow field job with lots of downtime.

Righto - just say no to chrome Just like there are folks who stock up on North Face gear at REI to wander around the city streets, you have the middle aged professionals chasing the biker image on their brand new Softails and ElectraGlides (in fact, that's the fastest-growing segment of bikers). And likewise, you've got the climbers beating it out of the city limits at 3pm on Friday or living out of their cars and the riders who are out there in all weather bolting their rides back together for the next few miles of twisties. make it fast and flat black

Yeah, saw it posted with the usual follow-up 'Not me!' on boldering .com web page

I'll be working a job in Spokane for a few weeks beginning 8/11 - looking for partners for evening climbing. Post here or pm me. Thanks,

BULLET-TOOTH TONY: So, you're obviously the big dick. The men on the side here are your balls. There are two types of balls. There are big brave balls and there are little mincey faggot balls. You know dicks have drive and clarity of vision but they're not clever. They smell pussy and they want a piece of the action. And you thought you smelled some good old pussy and have brought your two little mincey faggot balls along for a good old time. But you've got your pies muddled up. There's no pussy here. Just a dose that will make you wish you were born a woman. Like a prick, you're having second thoughts. You're shrinking and your two little balls are shrinking with you. And the fact that you've got "replica" written down the side of your guns and the fact that I've got "Desert Eagle, point five O", written on the side of mine should precipitate your balls into shrinking along with your presence. Now. Fuck off! ~ Vinnie Jones in Snatch

For your consideration: Pulled out a favorite essay I read each year about this time, which continues to be relevant with each review. It concludes, in part, with, "At any rate, spring is here..., and they can't stop you enjoying it. This is a satisfying reflection. How many times have I stood... and thought of all the important persons who would stop me enjoying this is they could. But luckily they can't. So long as you are not actually ill, hungry, frightened, or immured in a prison or a holiday camp, spring is still spring. The atom bombs are piling up in the factories, the police are prowling through the cities, the lies are streaming from the loudspeakers, but the earth is still going round the sun, and neither the dictators nor the bureaucrats, deeply as they disapprove of the process, are able to prevent it." George Orwell (1946)

Yeah, with respect to the English system, I think that Myanmar (Burma) is the only other country that consistently uses it. Gotta keep up with those Burmese, you know. Actually, Metric is the official measurement system in the U.S. It was adopted during the Carter administration. It's just that no one uses it. However - as others have mentioned, it would be a nightmare to convert consistently over - especially in land measurement - how to convert the entire township/range-section system over, and the accompanying property descriptions, for every square inch/hectare in the country? 'right...what's a cubit?'

In case you weren't already aware, or planning to celebrate... March 20

Generally, the weather is better (drier) than the Redmond Airport observations/predictions. Check the cragcam for cloud cover over the rocks, but generally, if its 50's and no wind predicted, you're golden.

clearly, its this

My larger cams are split between BD and Metolius - BD's starting at a #1, with overlap from the medium sizes from the Metolius front (along with some older Trangos). When adding cams to double up - I'll likely extend the BD sizes downward towards the 0.75 -

All good advice, even Specialed's. Likewise, without seeing you climb, it's difficult to assess. However, from general stuff I've seen with other folks who are at the 'thrash away at 5.9' level, I can say that it is most often the two aspects mentioned above- that is, limited technique, and general inefficiency due to missed sequences. Technique - as someone else mentioned, get on routes below your redpoint level and take the time to experiment with holds, body positions, sequences, etc. Even when we're beginners we get tied up in the numbers game ('I got up a 5.8!') and forget that childlike skill of just playing. So when you are traversing or tr-ing, take the time to just futz around and experiment with the holds - what you are doing is increasing your movement repetoire, and giving your body memory a greater number of options to throw at a given set of holds. And learn good footwork - critical, especially matching and efficient placement - when I'm teaching, I focus much more on footwork and weight shifting than upper body - that's what drives us up the rock. As far as visualization goes, as you pick up more of your own technique, you'll generally begin to recognize sequences out of sets of holds- so even if you don't have a particular route figured out, you will gain a general sense of the 'flow' of the route, portions of sequence, crux sections, rests, etc. Also, watch other people- even if they may have different strengths or body types than you, you can use this information to pick and choose your own motion. Generally, reinforce your strengths, and improve upon your weaknesses. And play.

BooYah! Hero Powder!

Yeah, it's the only time I've really projected much - I don't put much effort into pulling numbers otherwise. Hopefully I can sink my teeth into something there and make for some consistent attendance. Yeah, Marcus is wacked. That boy has some sick focus- I wish I could get just a bit of his focus/obsession - lessee - 2 season passes, training up for marathon-distance run, heading chronic-ward. 'course, it helps to be underemployed at the OutdoorBorg.