freeclimb9

I think it's great that lawyers are now involved in the dispute between the new owners of R&I and Climbing. You know what happens when you give a lawyer Viagra? he stands up.

shhhh! jumarnet.com

from planetfear: Denver -- Climbing magazine publisher Primedia has filed a lawsuit against its main competitor and two employees, contending the defendants have attempted to "cripple" the 51,000 circulation monthly. The suit, filed Monday, June 10, in Colorado's District Court in Denver, is seeking in excess of $75,000. Big Stone Publishing, which puts out Rock & Ice magazine, is named along with its publisher Duane Raleigh and production manager Quent Williams --both of whom are former Climbing magazine employees. "We were fully engaged in a spirit of friendly competition for our readers, advertisers and employees," said Primedia's Norb Garrett on Thursday. "However, as the days passed, information came to light that made it clear to us that Rock & Ice was not interested in fair competition, and we were basically left with no choice but to defend ourselves." The complaint alleges Big Stone, Raleigh and Williams of attempting to degrade the quality of Climbing magazine and steal editorial and advertising opportunities for Rock & Ice. Further, all three are accused of having "waged a systematic misinformation campaign about Climbing in an effort to cripple the magazine." Raleigh and Williams resigned from their respective jobs as publisher and production manager at Climbing magazine in April, then publicly announced that they had purchased Rock & Ice. Six other Climbing magazine employees also resigned from their jobs in mid-May to go to work for Raleigh and Williams, whose names appear on the articles of incorporation as Big Stone's two sole directors.

A good friend of mine always did a triple check of the setup when rappelling. He survived 30 years of climbing before cancer got him in January. I follow his lead, and check three times myself. May your friend recover quickly.

don't overlook the win of the 54th Dauphine Libere crit by everyone's favorite Texan rider. Will the Tour be a four-peat? The whole USPS team looks strong.

Erik I don't mean to cheapen the US mens victory over Mexico. To reiterate what I said about the US mens team, "They're dangerous, fast, and a proven giant-killer". Their play was great, but their coaches knowledge of how to play the players was masterful.

At Grand Teton NP, the climbing rangers have requested that I not sign out. It seems they use the registration to regulate the numbers of people camping in sensitive areas (like the Lower Saddle) and to locate climbing groups should a third party make inquiries. That's it. The MORA rangers could take a lesson in the friendly attitudes of other NP rangers, IMO. I caught major 'tude from ranger Steve Turner when I was last at Rainier.

Congratulations to the US mens soccer team on their survival of the round of 16 in the World Cup. It surprises me that Mexico is so dejected by the loss to the US team. This same US team took out Portugal. They're dangerous, fast, and a proven giant-killer. Watch out Germany!

quote: Originally posted by IceIceBaby: Is anyone notice that Barrabes doesn't sell anymore Sportiva's and the Petzl, Chucky- Mo's are not for sale outside the Euro market. Now, how about that!! That's due to pressure from the US distributors of those brands. Try to get those same products from MEC and you'll have problems getting them shipped south. Same deal: it's the US distributors raising hell about unfairness. I guess their thinking is along the lines of "free market be damned". Or "curse the strong dollar". In my personal dealings with LaSportivaUSA, they're dicks. Way too much Boulder attitude from those folks. After the splinter from TNF a couple years ago during the TNF restructuring, it's been downhill service. It pisses me off too, because La Sportiva footwear are great products and it's what I wear on the rock. But I've gone to Tecnica for ice footwear. Tecnica: they're very friendly and helpful and the products are light and durable.

in a word, "used". Otherwise, without info on your experience and weight, particulars aren't too helpful.

quote: Originally posted by savaiusini: Maybe Mike G. can let us know how they did from the sign-out records. Does the Park Service at Rainier keep "sign-out records"? This is news to me.

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: What's a death cookie? chunks of ice embedded in snow are called "death cookies" by skiers who hate them. They suck to walk over as well. On Wednesday, there were fields of these things on the flanks of Rainier --like demented mushrooms-- sprouting from hard ice and covered with a bit of snow. Uneven and insecure footing is all they offered.

cold American macro-brew. Brand is irrelevant for the politically challenged.

I met boonecounty at the White River trailhead Monday (6-10) night, and we pared gear down for the walk to Ptarmigan ridge. On Tuesday, we slogged for hours to get to the bivouac at 10,300'. It took us 11 hours of slow toil. The weather was stunningly clear and warm. The temperature cycling through the day helped gravity do its work. Serac falls boomed from every wall in sight: Willis, Liberty, Ptarmigan, and Mowich. We bivied for too few hours, then headed up the Ridge predawn with clear skies overhead and a clear view of the Puget sound and Seattle. Ice conditions were inconsistent. Some neve, some black ice, some munge, and some crust over sugar. After soloing the first 1800', we moved left toward the chute, and started belaying. The ropelength traverse into the chute itself featured wind-packed sugar over black ice: It was nice to have a rope. We had expected a few ropelengths of easy ramp after completing the chute, but found 200' of black ice at about 60 degrees angle that lead to a ridge crest over the Mowich face. This ridgecrest offered the first view of the nearby escape gully. There are two visible gullies, and we took the rightmost one. (BTW, there's a sweet bivy spot on this ridgecrest). The escape gully was fairly well supplied with crusted snow over sugar and some ice. We belayed for a shot section here, too, and found a fixed baby angle where some moves over rock are encountered (5.easy move). The route is essentially over at 12,500', but the danger wasn't. The upper mountain had a lot of death cookies growing snow feathers. Sugar created from windblown snow filled in some spots, but was only so many ball-bearings over hard ice. We had to stay focused to maintain good footing despite the low angle. The descent down the Winthrop and Emmons also required wearing crampons almost the whole way due to the hard pack, death cookies, and blue ice. We took a couple 2.5' pickets, three 22cm ice-screw, and a hand full of nuts. That was a decent rack, but a better one would have had a couple more screws and only three nuts around medium to mid-medium sized (we placed one BD #4). My climbing partner, boonecounty, was a delight to climb with. We both took a gamble in climbing with each other sight unseen, but it worked out well. We also lucked out with the great weather. There was barely a breeze on top of Liberty Cap. This is in contrast to two days earlier when a lenticular cloud capped the mountain. High winds that day blew away the hopes of a group of climbers from Feathered Friends gunning for Ptarmigan ridge. Like the old rolex ad with Jean-Claude Killy says, "In skiing, as in life, timing is everything." I'd rather be lucky than good.

Needles would also be awesome. It's a spooky place, too. Other cool places in CA include Donner Summit, Dome Rock (near Needles), Courtwright resevoir area, southern Yosemite, San Joaquin river valley, Whitney Portal, etc. .

Oh yea, if you're in northern Utah, you might as well consider Wyoming too. Wild Iris, Sinks canyon, Tetons, Wind Rivers. and on and on.

Utah cool climbing areas: Stone Garden and Rose Lake in the Unitas (around 8-9,000') Ferguson Canyon is shady and right out of Holliday (part of the SLC metropolitan area) There's some climbing high in the Henry Mountains. There's climbing at 10,000' near Brian Head ski resort. Great Mtn biking, too. There's climbing in the shade in Big Cottonwood canyon (can't remember the name of the crag, but it's climbing on quartzite). Mill Creek Canyon in the La Sals. Various and many canyons: Maple Canyon, Santaquin Canyon, American Fork, Logan canyon, Ogden canyon, some stuff in the shade in Little Cottonwood, Bells Canyon. Lone Pine cirque, Causey resevoir, bouldering at Red Lake. To name a few. That enough for ya?

Randal Grandstaff, longtime hardman and the author of many first ascents in Red Rocks as well as climbs around the world died in a fall before, or while, rappelling. http://www.lvrj.com/lvrj_home/2002/Jun-06-Thu-2002/news/18912331.html

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I drink untreated water too. But you seemed to say it in a way that leaned toward it was the only thing to do freeclimb9. I'm just throwing out some info that I found compelling. Realize that I rarely get in auto accidents, but I still frequently wear a seat belt.

Check out the July 2002 issue of Adventure Magazine by National Geographic (on the table at the dentist's office?). There's an article outlining research by Robert Rockwell which poses the question of whether "reports of giardia in the wild have been greatly exaggerated". BTW, I carry and use Potable Aqua, or SweetWater ViralStop Solution. I've drank untreated water many times without ill effect, but I wouldn't reccomend doing the same. And I don't drink untreated, or unfiltered, water around where I live: too many beaver, cows, and sheep. It's just shit.

quote: Originally posted by Sleeveless: Statistically, Mt Blanc is the deadliest Mtn in the world, given the Massive numbers I think pecentage-wise K2 is the deadliest. Perhaps you meant Mt Blanc is has the highest toll of deaths?

The chemistry of iodine is pretty far out, and that severely affects its shelf life. It's light sensitive (that's why Potable Aqua comes in a brown, rather than clear, bottle). It can polymerize, and also form wildly shaped complexes. The Potable Aqua tablets are hygroscopic, and will absorb water from the surrounding air. Temperature and turbidity will adversely affect potency as well. Clear warm water is where the stuf works the best. An alternative to iodine is chlorine. Though iodine is slightly more effective in whacking giardia, chlorine also kills cryptosporidium (sp?). One commercial product is "SweetWater ViralStop Solution". FYI, a recent study of stream water in the Sierras (maybe Cascades as well) found little risk of giardia --Actually much less than in municipal swimming pools. The article was mentioned in National Geographic's Adventure magazine. Basically, unless an infected person recently took a shit upstream (or an infected beaver is upstream), the water will be fine.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: what should I do about this . . .? Yea, you've got issues with external validation. Maybe it's due to birthing trauma, or your Momma didn't breast feed you long enough. Did you get picked on by the bullies on the school-yard playground? Or not. Maybe you should "Shut up and climb"? Familiarity leads to greater comfort. It's natural to build tolerance to many things, including climbing. I think you should aspire to solo the south face of Dhaulgiri cause homeboy Tomaz Humar left that baby wide open.

try this: http://www.hyperhidrosis-sweating.com/Sweaty_feet_stop_sweating__hyperhidrosis_underarm_sweat_excessive_perspiration_aluminum_chloride.htm

Ivan, if the "kid" was swollen and oozing, he's as risk of drowning from what his lungs may be leaking. Medical treatment, ASAP. Corticoid steroids are what he needs. And to wash off oils if you know you've been exposed, I favor the strongest detergent soaps I've got in the house. Dishwasher soap works great. Once you've got it, anything that will dry it out works. A vacation to the beach and frequent ocean swims is the best. BTW, poison oak's allergen is related to oils in mangoes. If you're really allergic, or have an out-break, avoid mangoes.