EV

I know I'll probably take some shit for this one, but on short approaches, climbs like Outer Space, etc., my climbing partner and I take our own racks and use our own gear on our leads. That way, if I use a #2 and #3 and something else for an anchor, I'm not using the pieces he needs for the next pitch. As long as you don't mind carrying the extra weight, it works fine. We only carry one rope, though. And he usually carries it.

Lambone: Thanks for the great beta. Bagging the north ridge is quite an accomplishment. One of the 50 Classic Climbs of NA. Congratulations.

Lambone: Sorry for the error. My eyesight isn't what it used to be. They say that's the second thing to go and they're right. One more question: Did you use rock shoes or regular boots? Thanks.

IAMBONE: When did you start and when did you finish, car-to-car? Also, did you do the entire north ridge, or did you skip the lower pitches? Finally, how many "pitches" were there, and how much would you say was done as running belays? TIA

$66 for LaSportiva Mythos

Mattp: I think we started on Botony 101 and then went left to Safe Sex. We bailed about one pitch below a huge roof. I'm not sure if we were on Safe Sex or not. We didn't read the description in Smoot's book very well. It looks like a route finding chore. Have you seen the photo in Smoot's book? If so, is it accurate as far as the upper pitches? Also, checked out your web site - excellent. As a matter of fact, I've added it to my favorite places. Thanks again.

Ropegun: We, too, recently tried Dreamer and got off route. I don't think we went far enough left. Any beta you could provide would be helpful. Funny thing, we had Smoot's topo and Nelson's topo and it didn't help. I guess words are better than pictures for us! TIA

Wil: Good post. Eliminating excess from one's life is often good - the less, the better. Also, nice article in the recent Rock and Ice on Portland.

What happens if I contribute some beta to this thread; it's misread or misunderstood, does that mean I get sued, too? With all the many hundreds of threads contributed to this site, and the many thousands or responses, I don't think litgation has ever come up before. Hmmm....

Matt: As far as your two or three options listed on the previous page, you need go no farther than Option No. 1. Shoot the bastards.

DDD was first done in 1963 by Dan D. Davis (hence the DDD); he also did many other FAs, Orbit, North Face of Robson, etc., etc.

Bravo, guys. Job well done. Retro, I'll send you a private e-mail and would be more than happy to reimburse you the $8 and some cents. How much for the crowbar?

I don't have one, but someone mentioned that the floors were pretty slippery and they had to put down dots of seam seal on the floor to prevent slippage.

To Jman: Thanks, that's what I was looking for. I'll remember it this time. To Cpt. Caveman: Thanks, also. I had to chuckle a little when I read your reply, watching Channel 4 weather and Steve Poole saying it's too fucking cold out, stay inside. Your weather schedule sure takes the bullshit out of the equation. P.S. Have you done anything on DDD yet?

Pardon my ignorance, but is there a simple way for converting fahrenheit to celcius and vice versa? I'm heading up north and need to be able to figure this out. A guy in Banff explained it to me last year, but I've already forgot. Thanks.

I don't think you'll find the mounties climbing at 510d-5.11 routes. I think their hangout is the beckey route, concord, sews and kangaroo temple.

Has anyone done Concord Tower, the Cave Route? Any beta on that route or the north face would be appreciated. TIA.

Thanks, everyone, for the valuable info I received from this post. It is much appreciated.

I'm getting ready to invest in either of the above three mentioned micro cams. I do not do any aid climbing. The Metolius I would be looking at would be the TCUs. My cams from .5 to 3.5 are BDs. I like the Aliens because of the flexible stems. Any beta would be helpful. Thanks.

I agree with Eric. If you want to see far ahead, go with your zoom. Otherwise, the Tikka is fine. We were bushwhacking around 1:00 a.m., not sure if we were going the right way, I'm glad we had a Petzl Zoom. However, we could have gotten by with the Tikka.

It seems as though everyone knows who the bolters are but me. Who were those guys? Or is it bad form the publicly state who they are? If they had the audacity to bolt such a classic, they probably wouldn't mind having their names known.

Well put. Pretty soon the whole rock will be bolted.

Ray: Although I doubt if I would ever have the ability to climb DDD, I would appreciate someone with the skills and knowledge to chop the bolts on that route. It pisses me off that someone in the year 2001 has bolted a route on which a first ascent was done in 1963. Let's bolt the Tooth next. If you need a belay, let me know. I would be more than happy to help with this project in any way that I can.

This past winter, we drove into the Ghost area in a Toyota 4-Runner, about eight years old. Other than the brakes freezing (it was -30C), it worked well. Got us in and out. Also, the brakes did thaw out.

I agree. If you leave the trailhead early, early morning, you could be back before dark. My guess is 15 hours roundtrip. As I recall the route, the first two pitches are nothing much. Then a long traverse on a ledge. The last two pitches are short, but fun.