Billy

This has been climbed in May of 2016.

How far were you able to drive up Cloudcap Road? thanks

Hi All- Has anyone been up on Jefferson, West Rib? Thanks for any info. Cheers!

Here is one from Sunday Night. Not great, but looks like its getting there: Cloudcap road is gated for the winter.

Nice photos! I was there about 3 years ago with my kids camping and scrambling around. Your pictures are very inspiring!

Nice send!

Trip: North Sister - Ski Circumnavigation and Ice Pictures Date: 1/20/2011 Trip Report: I had a great day yesterday doing a ski circumnavigation of North Sister with a couple of buddies. Firm conditions prevailed, so the turns weren't the best, but the views were spectacular. The NE Face of Middle Sister is in FAT, and the Emde/Abao Route to the left is in too. The classic NE Face: [img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5376816180_6045aca847.jpg[/img] Emde/Ablao (2004) [img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5050/5376215025_4ffe8976df.jpg[/img] Both Routes in Context: [img:center]http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5161/5376216489_fc478797f2.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: There are few routes on the Linn Glacier Headwall area too. Approach Notes: You can drive to the final junction of the road, 3 miles from the Pole Creek trailhead. We took a snowmobile in to the trailhead.

I found a camera on the approach with some ski pictures on it. Give me a shout and I will gladly send it back. 5413885338

Put those tools down. Shouldn't you just be skiing now? There's no time left for recreational climbing.....

Vert- don't do it. Leave 'em all at Ozone and Smittys. They'll stay busy there.

Bulldog- just bring the kids with you, that's what I do. Jlag- Trees stopped us, not snow. Bring your saw, and if you cut 'em let me know. I am not sure where on the road that the snow would stop you as we didn't get that far. Bring a saw with a big bar.

I took some time today to drive around to some TH's. Pamelia: You can get within 1/2 mile of the TH Whitewater Rd: Big trees down at 2.7 miles Mt Washington: Road is plowed to Ray Benson Snow Park, but beyond that it looks like it is being worked on, but there is a ton of the white stuff. Pole Creek: I actually didn't drive to it, but word on the street is that you can within 1/2 mile or so of the TH. I hope this info helps some intrepid alpinists.

Not exactly true. MRNP issues a certain number of CUA's (Commercial Use Authorizations) each year that AMGA Certified Alpine Guides can apply for. These are essentially a one time use guided trip. You can probably contact MRNP and see which guides have applied for, or received, a permit for next summer. This gives you a few more choices to choose from, and choices based on credentials.

West Slopes Cascades

Dave- if you do a point forecast, it won't show freezing levels. Try searching things like these on the Noaa pages: West Slopes of the North Cascades East Slopes of the North Cascades These more generalized forecasts show freezing levels where the point forecasts don't. At least that's what I've found.

Since you were using the ATC Guide, just throw a prussic or a klemheist on the loaded strand and you've got an instant 3:1 haul system. There is a bunch of friction, but I have done it before for short distances.

For what its worth, I was up on the Eliot a couple of days ago, and it would be very possible to go up the West Morraine of the Eliot, drop down, and cross the very lower glacier, with out crampons, and go back up the ice climbers trail to the East Morraine of the Eliot. The only bummer would be the immense amount of scree getting down off the West Morraine. The lower glacier is really casual, hard with slots visible, but enough gravel and rocks to walk on.

Some pics of North during better condtions than now. The ice shot is on the E Butt in the winter. The small shot is the Bowling Alley in May. The main shot of the East side of the mountain is taken in Feb, 2004. This is some of the best climbing south of Mt Hood in the winter.

Pete Absolon was recently killed by a trundled block in the Winds. He was a fantastic guy, and he will be missed. http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/news.php#216

Word on the street is that the traverse is completely snow free.

I climbed that thing a while back, nothing but choss and a scare-fest. Better stick to the security of Morning Glory Wall.

Ken Nichols....Madman or Messiah?

KEVBONE: takes a piss at Broughtons, or maybe it was Beacon and then whines about it after he realizes he may have contacted some poison oak on his member. Claims he can't send Classic Crack after such an experience. Much more whining ensues.

Trip: Mt Jefferson - West Rib Date: 5/24/2007 Trip Report: Rob and I climbed the West Rib of Jefferson May 24/25. I thought the route was an unsung classic in the Oregon Cascades. The solitude was incredible, and the climbing not too bad either. The Pamelia trail on the way in is a little beat up from the debris flow, but its pretty easy to navigate with the flagging that the FS has put up, you just have to keep looking. Crossing Milk Creek, which is now a huge gouge, was sporty. Actually not the creek crossing, but downclimbing into the gouge and climbing back up out of it. The bushwack up the North Fork was steep and tiring, but the actual amount of bushwacking isn't too sustained. Once you get on snow in the creek at about 5600, its good cruising up to a camp on the top of the timbered rib at 6600. Its a little slice on the North Cascades, right here in Oregon. The Rib had really poor snow conditions while we were crossing the upper Milk Creek Drainage, but once we got up on the Rib at about 7000, the snow firmed up again. The climbing up the Rib to the summit pinnacle was low angle up to about 35 degrees, and goes on forever. What a great ski run this would make. The summit pinnacle was steep snice and some rime that you did actually have to climb and not step around. It was a fitting end to a spectacular climb. No gear whatsoever. Bring two ropes to rappel off of the North Summit, or do the downclimb, as we did. This was full value. We left camp at 03:15, summitted at 09:10, and back to camp at 12:10. After climbing we got back to camp and hiked out arriving at the car at 16:30. Milk Creek Gouge Scwacking the North Fork The West Rib from Camp Summit Pinnacle Rob approaching the summit Gear Notes: Snow pro, but no screws needed. Approach Notes: Pack light, its not your average Oregon Cascades approach. When trying to gain the top of the timbered rib that splits the forks of Milk Creek, go way left up the North Fork Gulley, and slowly swing back right. If you stay too close to the creek its a slide alder festival.

I just did the West Rib of Jeff on May 24/25. Skiing the Rib would be awesome! The summit pinnacle was full value with rime.