Jens

I've never climbed at Franklin Falls but looking at my map, would it be quicker to approach from the snowed over access road that starts near the alpental I-90 exit. Could you glide down the road on a pair of skis and be at the falls in 10minutes? Or am I dreaming or reading my map wrong? The reason I ask is--- would this work for some quick afternoon after- work action? Also how did the stuff near the east end of exit 38 look? I was up there a few days ago and it was pretty grim.

They were out looking for him again today.

Wow crux- great post. Does anyone know if the laminate- lined WB 400 stuff still has the four way strecth like the Dryskin extreme does? The reason I ask is that when the companies invented windstopper- style laminates in the 90's they all seemed to cut way down on the stretch of those fleece garmets.

Does anyone know the schedule for when the lake is drained to the point where the boulders are accesible? Even though I have been climbing out there off and on over the years it seems like it is kind of hit or miss with the water level. You drive the four miles to see. I was out there yesterday and had a blast

Thanks. This is a huge deal for WA climbers. As big as any I can think of in recent times.

So what it is the combo?

I stretch a lot mostly while watching TV etc. Stretching may not help you climb that much better but makes climbing more fun as you can incorporate more of an element of artistry to your climbing moves. Being flexible does kick butt for stemming between pillars and placing a screw though!

Amen

ChrisS and I didn't see a single other climber the entire weekend except for a dude who showed up by himself an hour before dark at marble on Saturday. All the climbs that we did were relativley well formed. Perhaps some of the more recent reports on the Lillooet conditions were to keep the crowds away as temps have if anything been the same or warmer for the last few weeks? _________ On Sunday the last climb of the day for us was a 1 pitch route about 10 minutes off the road on the Duffey Lake Road. It was east of Carl's Berg but west of Loose Lady. It was on the same side of the highway as loose lady. The route had a funky stump hanging out of rock cliff with a red sling near the top. The route was clearly visible from the road and mostly vertical. We saw indications of traffic from the day before. Anybody know what the nameof the route is? Or its history? (Not in the guide or on the web site) It was a lot of fun.

I'm no engineer but it seems like they have the "green" in the wrong place. Would Ray Jardine say that when placed toward the end of the green dots, the units are way way way overcamed? They sure look like it to me. Granted metolius cams may be slightly different, but their cam angle is in the same ballbark as manyof the other manufacturers cams.

DFA- I'll take the bait. Yes it did rub me wrong. The article said the guy had never placed a cam in his life. Many of these routes that are being free climbed have a lot of in-place gear and draws. For instance when I cleaned my partner's lead of the great roof pitch on the Nose, I noticed that a free climber wouldn't need to place anything- Just like a sport climb. Look at the photo of Yuji in the mag.

I took a 20 footer on a screw when I was young and slightly more stupid then I am now. The catch was actually fairly soft- nothing but air.

I have a home wall in my garage. My two cents: Make it steeper than you think. It might not be as realistic but it will be less boring and will see more use over the long haul. Go random with your T-nut holes. Start loooking for mattresses now. Homemade wooden holds kick butt-and are used by the world's best. Get good tunes going! Have fun

I am looking for a partner to ice and or mixed climb at Lillooet this Sunday and Monday (11/30-12/1). I am very familiar with the area. Anyone game?

I think it has helped me. When I was working at a gym and bouldering way to much my weak carcass had lots of twings, twangs, and pops. When I went on the max dose, the twangs quieted somehwhat. Take it with food. Take the max dose every day. Ibuprofen can be dangerous, there is no harm in glucosimine. Jens Klubberud

In this last year, being a parent has really cut into my climb time and fitness level. If anyone has any tips for sneaking out for more climbing let me know. Mine are: *Always keep gear in the trunk of your car so you can go on a moments notice- Even if it is just for a one hour bouldering session. * Be flexible with plans.

I think we (the whole northwest climbing community) should adjust index ratings across the board. Before you spray me, hear me out: I was always taught that usualy ratings should not be changed from the original ascensionist's rating so that the historical signifigance could be maintained. For instance- if "John Doe" chicken wings up some ow horror show on the Elephant Rock in 1959 and calls it the first 5.10, that rating should be respected and left alone for its historical significance (Even if the reigning world cup climbing champion can't even do one move on the route.) Index is a good place to climb but didn't even have Washington's first 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4, 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10, 5.11, 5.12, or 5.14 so in that context, none of the climbs' ratings are historical benchmarks. If you look in the back of the Clint Cummin's guidebook, 85% of the the climbs are put up by the same dozen people within a 8-10 year window. ------------ We've all heard the index arguements and spray before. But the fact of the matter is, many of us are well traveled rock climbers. Index indeed has some of the stiffest ratings anywhere. Even a footwork expert... schooled on Bachar horror shows will tell you this if they have climbed at index. I just pulled up an about 12 year old magazine stating that Tom Herbert became the first climber to beta flash a 5.12 at index after a near miss the day before. At the time of writing, can I assume that no one had ever onsighted a .12 at index?. Put the testoterone aside everyone and lets add at least one letter grade to every climb. This can be done by word of mouth. I already do when climbing at index with out of towners. - I will continue to do this. ----- This is perhaps one of the only areas in the country where this is applicable. This argument is also logical for making an area's ratings harder. Think about it --it makes sense. Royal R. would argree Flame away!

Load up on the maximum daily dose of Glucosimine/Chondroitin. Take it with food. Keep it at your work home, car, etc. ------ Watch out for everyday stuff that you would never expect to tweak it- mowing yard, carrying bags of groceries, etc. --------- Show up at Marymoor Park for some killer one handed bouldering problems.

Look for my full review and specs. in Climbing Magazine to come out sometime around the Dec.15. issue (unless it gets cut).

Cool TR. Any thoughts anyone on if Trans Candanda highway 1 is quicker then cutting over to Spokane and then north? One guy told me he made it to Banff in 9 hours during winter from Seattle (without much speeding). Was he pulling my leg? Also would it be quicker during this time of year to cut north from Spokane or continue about 30 miles east on i-90 before cutting north?

Ben was perhaps one our areas finest atheletes. Anything he wanted to try he'd did well at. As a partner of his since 93', I don't think I ever heard him complain once. Ben lived his life and dreams to the fullest. He'd give you the shirt off his own back. Jens Klubberud

Personally, if given the choice and weight or gear was not an issue,I would rather use only SLCD's for an anchor than only passive pro. You can set up an anchor a couple minutes faster. I like the way cams can sometimes rotate with direction of the pull. Try the same thing with passive pro and the stuff will sometime pop out (unless you've done someelaborate directional rigging). Yes, the cams will often walk or tip out when rotated, but it's better than popping a nut out or something.

I wish I had more. ------ I think everyone should own a huge pair of DH boards for haulin' -- even if they only get used about once a year. PS: Isn't the ski speed record from muir to paradise like seven minutes or something? An RMI guide told me the story a long time ago but I forgot the details.

The grocery store pass is pretty creative. I wonder which resorts it works at? __________ As for the original question, in my opinion if you have the money to afford a season pass, treat yourself to regualr alpine ski gear. It has been my experience as an 8 year ski instructor that an above average skier with state of the art alpine equipment that is fitted and tuned will ski every bit as good as the most elite 1% of those on AT or tele gear when skiing on in-bounds terrain. (bumps, ice, groomed, etc.)

Where are the areas that everytime you visit it feels like you're wearing a weight belt? I do not mean ratings at all-- because ratings vary wildly form area to area. Instead I am speaking to where you fall in relation to the rest of the pack of climbers that are also at the area on any given day. (not that climbing is about being competitive, but I just want to hear some responses). Mine: 1st- Peshastin Pinnacles 2nd- UW rock