Jens

Nice pictures! And I've seen the outhouse flow water ice in the alps! G-spotter is right, any attempts at decent farmed ice in this day and age in washington would literally have to be as high as camp muir on a volcano to be cold enough. As for the Mazama scene, Lillooet is closer as far as drive time for Seattleites in winter.

Any votes for the cascade 5.9-5.11ish route that is the hardest to onsight but after you've done it once, it's gravy and you could even style up it with a hangover? Or the perfect route to sandbag the out of town chestbeater? Several Index routes certainly come to mind.

Due to the rain, I've been out to Vantage for the last 2 weekends after essentially a 6 year hiatus from the place. I've noticed over the last two weekends that on many of the entabluture sport routes that I had done in the past, many of the holds have come off over time. The changes made some routes way easier and some way harder. This was the case for almost half the routes I got on. Holds coming off is nothing new, but I even took a big foothold off myself and noticed this trend on almost half the routes. Take the ratings with a grain of salt. I'd never thought I'd say this but, Hey vantage has some really fun new lines these days!

I'm with catbird on this one.

sorry to hear the news. I have a climbing partner that has the jacket you describe but he'd never part with it. --- Yet another break-in while climbing at squamish.

I don't use leashes on my quarks and am finally getting around to removing the screw with the stud for a clipper system on the shaft. Any ideas for how to plug the hole? I don't just want to duct tape it. It should ideally be small, tough, stand up to rain, and piolet caning, not leak, and match the silver color of the tool. Any ideas?

I haven't seen the picture so I don't know if it is me or not. ------------------------- I used to write for climbing magazine but I don't think I am featured in the issue you are talking about. Jens Klubberud

I am not exactly sure what you are asking.

With all the road closures and floods, would it be possible to drive to Big 4 sometime this weekend? What might the swamp with the boardwalk over it look like?

Could anyone give me any advice about how I would join forces with another team of two to rappell off a huge formation quickly? Let's assume it is me and a parter with two 60meter ice ropes tied together and 2 other climbers with the same setup. Let's assume we'd have stances with fixed stations. Some dude explained to me some cool tricks but I forgot them. Would it in fact be quicker to join forces and if so,....how much faster?

Lots of variables in a roped fall. Nearly impossible to simutlate repeatedly in a lab?

Really- how skinny can I go as far as a rope with a gri-gri.? I have one of the newer colored ones but it still says 10-11mm ropes only. Are their newer ones that are labeled differently? I've seen a lot of sponsored-sporto's using really skinny cords with gri-gris. Anyone have any help for me?

I guess that was a pretty lame troll (my first one) ----------------- but I am semi-serious

I have two pair of the exact shoes (same size and everything) One has c4 the other has onyx. I can not tell the difference between the two. The wear pattern is the same also.

Passing 17 European parties or soloists and not getting passed.

If you ever see anything red attatched to the first bolt of route, that means it is a work in progress and may have not yet been safely bolted or cleaned. It could be a dangerous siuation even if if appears to be completely equiped or fun looking. It could be unsafe.

I climbed at the stuff behind the gun club a few times in the 80's. Yoder would be the authority on anything within that neck of the woods you guys are talking about. He lives their now.

Since it is my home turf.. Anyone up for a pub crawl down Ballard Ave. afterwards? Two new really cool bars opened this fall on that Avenue, bringing the total number of bars that I like to about 7 down their.

All those folks who worked so hard to save Sam Hill at Leavenworth.

Man Eric It could just be your superman strength! _________________________________ As for footwork, experiment and find your own style.

As long as I am moving upwards, I don't care what kind of climbing it is, whether wearing a crampon, rock shoe, or skin-lined ski. But something I heard the other day got me thinkin'....... Someone made a really strong arguement (that I agreed with a lot of) that single pitch trad climbing is lamer than all the other types of climbing. It doesn't get you up high and give you a view Moves are rarely gymnsastic like sport routes Even hard crack climbing has less artistry than modern face climbing (ever see a crack crux get climbed 7 different ways? Like on a modern bouldering route or sport route?) Placing gear should be for getting a guy up the great cliffs of the world like the great trango tower. You can't cut loose with the wild abadonen like a bolted route. It's usually slabbier than an aid route It doesn't have all the coolness of mixed or ice climbing It just downright isn't sexy!

how about calling this "Favorite rock climbs!!!" WA trad- Outer Space or ROTC @ leavenworth WA sport- Technorigine or something at the drip wall or rattlesnake rock @leavenworth OR sport- Vomit launch or Monkey space OR trad- Karate crack

Yes, I'll sell you two picks for the cobras for 10 bucks each. I'll be at the VW in seattle mon. night and I live in ballard

Anyone use this yet? (bump)

A glider would be the shizzle.