verticalturtle

Something to consider...when placed in a shallow vertical orientation how flexable is that super stiff U cable body on the TCUs Answer=not very. Sizes are compatable on aliens vs. TCUs but this point and the idea that it's real hard to trigger TCUs w/ gloves sells me on aliens. And yes I have talked to folks in different areas reporting TCUs to pop in this type of placement. Granted it isn't always like this but I find alot of difficult thin cracks are not very deep; re you can't always get the good downward angle. Aliens bend...nuff said.

Without an axe (2 actually) and crampons my partner and I would have missed out on a cool 3 pitches of ice variation to the upper ridge. Something to think about...

I have to say after owning both I prefer both...in their place. I have had my Gamma jacket on every single trip since I have had it. I used it and gamma salopet for ice all winter. I will agree that powershield is a bit warm for summer in the mtns if its hot, but at least w/ mine they vent like mad. Even with a harness on. I do not agree however that the top is too hot. There are of course days where all I need is a very light windshirt, and the cloudveil veiled peak works well, but those are definately the exception. Even summer in the mountains gets cool when the wind picks up and the gamma seems to do well because it is so breathable. Also after wearing this piece nearly every weekend for over a year, and trust me I do not go easy on my gear, it still looks almost new. If its warm- shoeller pants, gamma top. If its cold powershield pants and top. Butt cold fleece suit and powershield. Freakin hot go nekid This said I don't know anyone with Shoeller tops who has been disapointed with durrability, unless you include pilling. All schoeller will eventually. Powershield doesn't. Neither will keep you dry in rain (but who climbs planning on rain?), but powershield seems to do better in supposedly frozen waterfalls that are sopping. To answer a question..malden does make several weights of their product also. You will also see TNF and others doing powershield stuff soon. And cloudveil will have a dryskin extreme bib and hooded jacket next season. [This message has been edited by verticalturtle (edited 06-05-2001).]

Beck check out some oof the other Arc'teryx packs like the Khamsin 62. The regular (medium) goes from 60-70l and weighs in @ 4lbs.

ditto on the aliens Camalots go big here is a question Any one else had this I have talked to several folks who after setting metolieus micros in a vertical orientation shallow cracks (which is common on harder stuff) have had them pull out after a fall or only hold by half of the cams. My prob with metolieus is they are not really flexable in this orientation. Even though they have a cable, placed this way they act like rigid stems. Comments?

Sorry didn't see it. I must make a correction though; we went a bit right and onto rock not left. If you look at a good pix of the face there is rock separating the couloir proper from the headwall...that would be a portion of our route. Kind of odd with all the ice coming off, but we expirienced no rockfall at all.

I was up ther same time 5/13 and can account for the rock and icefall. I have to ask though, since I did this, why did you choose to continue into Leuthold proper when it was raining bullets (at least one of which you caught). A variant to the right of the rock rib took us to half height in the lower fan where we saw everything fall but were well out of it's way. Sorry if this sounds like a critique, but for the benefit of those considering the route you can limit your chances of being pelted by varying the route. Just don't go too far left unless you want a few pitches of rock. You do still take your chances as stuff is constantly falling, but it doesn't make sense to me to jump into the line of fire.

between speedy gonzales and the turtle who won the race You weren't refering to me were you? Gosh I didn't even know I entered. BTW I may see you if you are there next weekend.

Wow all this mention of rap and no talk of the Beasties! Thought you should know Erik but they are on my list along w/ Massive Attack, Morcheeba (more cheeba anyone?),tom waits, Pink Martini (great live), and Medeski Martin and Wood. Mmmmmmmm Good!

I migh tget the chance to do Thin red line in a couple of weeks. Can I get any beta on stuff not in the guides, i.e. bad rock, fixed pro, or bad fixed pro (rusty 1/8 in bolts). Also any info on how involved the A3 is would help. Any info is appreciated Thanks

There are some cool ultralight bags now out to check if you want a compromise. I just got a 30 dg down sierra designs; no zip, 1.5lb, elastic eliminates cold spots, packs the size of a soft ball. Combine this with one bivy and your set (my integral designs bivy can easily fit 2, but I cant speak for all of them). BTW marmot is also doing some cool 1/2 zip ultralight bags of comparable weight, but they cant do the elastic thing due to patents.

thanks for the useful info chuck

more info on this vaccine if you have any please!!! I have never heard of this and was always under the impression that if not treated early the disease was for life.

Bring good raingear and a good book. Make it a few good books and mabey some single malt.

AAARGH!!!! thats not what I wanted to hear! Well mabey it will get colder or more info from folks after this weekend.

If you like a bail up front Sabertooth. They do it all well. I got a pair for this winter and used them for waterfall ice to 5+ for all but 1 trip. Due to their horizontal front points they do climb neve like a dream.(by the way the exception tri I had the new M10, A+) If you want to be able to do it all with (almost) every boot CM s12 w/ front straps. This poojab will allow you to attach them to an excellent boot like the La Sportiva Trango Plus( as well as others in this expanding category). Grivel makes a model similar to this that should also work well, I just happen to have had excellent expirience with my CMs. I work in a gear shop and see most of the stuff that comes out, and get a chance to try or buy most of it. You will not go wrong with most of the major manufacturers (i.e. CM, Grivel, BD) the single most important thing to ask is what you will be using it for, and determine the KIND of crampon you want. That is, what you want it to do for you. One thing to consider is attachment. For the most part full straps are antiquated. They are slow to put on and if you do much reading you will come across acounts of those whose full straps have blown off. On the other hand You will be hard pressed to find an account of an expirienced climber whose step-ins popped off (although I do not doubt that this may have happened). The hybred type like I described earlier combine ease versatility and will take only seconds longer to put on, if any time at all. Consider this and you should find somethig good. Read these strings and you will also find much brand loyalty. Mine happens to be Charlet. Good luck and happy climbing!

I have not heard about the conditions in the enchantments for a while. Does any one have any info on route conditions for Dragontail or the N side couloir routes on Stuart? I plan to go in to do a route on Dragontail rt of Serpentine which was fully iced this time last year and would appreciare any beta on conditions be it road, route, or other routes. I have been stoked to do this since i saw it last year but if it isn't iced I would be happy doing Triple C or Stuart again. Also since someone brought up fees in another string, when are they mandatory there?

I may be misinterpreting Forrest, but did you do it or just the approach. I scoped the route same time (last Aug) and it looked to be in no shape to climb. I hope this year it will be in a bit better shape.

I drove all the way up in early august last year just to stay in the parking lot. They happened to have a very late spring and things where sliding aplenty. Compounding this problem was the info that there had been a couple of low snow years that have apparently opened up quite a few crevasses severely impeding the approach from berg lake. With this info Kain face might have been an only slightly better route (for conditions). Consider that the Rockies have had yet another low snow year so far and it seems like this might be another year for rock routes, or off season early/late attempts. I still want to do it but I HIGHLY suggest getting current info. The rangers were okay espcially if you can talk to someone who has been on the mtn recently. Another good source (better in fact when we were there) was gravity gear in Jasper. Good Luck.

I know this is a bit off of the cascades, but does anyone have any info on the condition of Blodget Canyon since their fire last year. The rockis usualy good starting in March but I don't know about the road, campground, or trail since the fire.

Bronco tubes sure are nice even though many consider them a luxury. They are in fact not absolutely essential. As for the pad, many removable (all I think) ones fold out either verticaly or horizontaly and at least one is a trifold. this makes for more space, and not having to sleep on all the straps a buckles. I have used mine many times and think them an asset. you can bring your own but on some routes they get in the way alot. Just one guys opinion, but something to think about.

You are correct about the length. It is not 90 ft. It wass a bit run out for us though as we had nolarge cams and the bolts are at the bottom. I thought it was about 30-40 ft till you got to a large bolck/chockstone? whatever it was it gave decent pro. But you are technicaly correct it isn't 90 but it has been about 2 years give it a few more and I amsure my memory will fail sufficiently for it to be about...oh say ...150'

Help! Spring break is next week and I have off starting this weekend to next weekend....but I have no belay. My partner flaked out. Anyone got time off. Alpine, long trad, short trad. I open. Gear to 5.10 btw

The rumors are true!! 2x4 yes! New bolt, yes! 90ft runout yes! Fun, fun, fun! The route is great just be carefull on the descent. We got the ropes stuck and had to prusick up em twice! Any other questions just ask.