mattp

2 x 2 is faster on almost all terrain but for glacier travel where you are significantly worried about falling in a hole, you might want to rope up as 4.

My scarpa T-2's kick steps very well and for technical climbing they perform well with a pair of rigid crampons (I have Grivel Rambo's), but as noted above the toe extension really does get in the way some times -- especially on rock (without crampons) or when wearing flexible crampons. I'm sure I'll destroy the Rambo's if I wear them for extended walking but so far I have seen no damage using them for technical climbs in the Tatoosh and the Snoqualmie Alps, and on Colchuck Peak, and I've used this combination with positive results for mixed climbing and for water ice up to WI4. My 25 year old LaPrade flexible crampons with an old-fashioned strap system go on the tele boots just fine, but this combination does not perform well for anything but glacier hiking and moderate ice like found on volcano climbs or the "standard" routes on most N. Cascade peaks.

quote: Originally posted by Chaseabbott: Ballroom blows goats... So does Jon.... We've been to bad bars before, so I bet we'll survive it. And I think Ray is going to show up and perform a little dance for us so DaveW can film it.

The film clips are fun and with a CD (as opposed to a download), there will be plenty of room for frivolity. I don't think he intends them to be much more than entertaining, but they could certainly be that -- imagine, an endlessly repeating loop of Ray on the 420th pitch, that includes a virus such that it fires up on your workstation every day at 4:20.

I just notified Mr. Beckey that you guys were planning on the Ballroom. I took a risk on making the call because I don't see a lot of discussion indicating otherwise (just so nobody think's I'm trying to kidnap PubClub for self-indulgent reasons, I wish it be known that I currently live accross town from there).

Al - I'm pretty sure that, as my topo indicates, the fourth pitch of tidbits still remains to have the old bolts replaced. I believe you would find it currently to be VERY run out on VERY old bolts. The third pitch, the one that climbs through "the big A" and the pitch that is the best one on the route, was rebolted about ten years ago. As Dave Schuldt indicated, the second pitch (the first if you take the "approach gully" instead of climbing clean slabs to the left) needs a little attention from a brush saw and scrub brush, and there are one or two old spinners there so rippers would be a good call, but it is in my opinion safe at the moment and the crux bulge is protected by good gear placements. At least one of the old spinners can be backed up with a sling girth hitched on the tree that needs pruning. AlpineK - do you make house calls? - Matt

The snow has melted from the Clear Creek Road (the road to all the published Darrington climbs, and the Forest Service has repaired most of the roadway damage so a normal car can now make it in there to the Darrington climbs (a low rider probably not). As of 6/2/02, snow remains at the base of almost all the routes (bring hiking boots and an ice axe if you're going for Dreamer!), but the rock was generally dry on this fair weather weekend.

quote: Originally posted by erik: hearing that makes me quiver....... You'll find Blueberry Hill pretty tame if your idea of a good time includes mud-filled chimeys, old bolts in sandstone, and undeveloped crags in Leavenworth.

Half of PubClub was there. We should have hooked up for the "19th pitch."

Dave- It sounds as if you did not climb the first pitch of Tidbits. Instead of "trashing" the approach gully, try the face to the left. That right-hand second pitch (actually the third pitch) is called Gastroblast. Tidbits goes up and left, with fun face climbing using edges and side-pulls. Both climbs need bolts replaced on their fourth pitches. Gastroblast has cool moves on the bulge, eh? Here's the topo. -Matt [ 06-03-2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: mattp ]

So far, I note one vote for an Eastside PubClub, and at least a couple of people talking about skipping this week's Eastside rotation. Is this (1) a lingering reaction to a month-old argument, (2) a symptom of Spring Fever (there are other things to do in the evening besides drink beer), (3) fair, or (4) something else? Meanwhile, I get the email from Mr. Beckey wanting to know where its going to be...

On Sunday, June 2, Gregw, Mattp, Matt, and Partner climbed on Bluebery Hill. The weather was good, and the "Granite Sidewalk" was almost dry. Here's Gregw, leading the fourth pitch of the West Buttress route: After that lead, we simu-lclimbed about 350 feet to the Blueberry Terrace, walked down around the corner and headed up toward the top on some run out but gradually easing climbing. Here's Gregw topping out, about 100 feet below the summit of Exfoliation Dome: Matt Heller (Matt on CascadeClimbers.com) and his partner climbed a more challenging line nearby. Here's Matt on lead: Also on the dome was DavidW, with his partner "the safety man." We never saw them, however, because they were on the "backside." Exfoliation dome makes a great climb, involving full on mountain climbing skills in addition to multi-pitch rock climbing (the easiest route is nine pitches long on top of over a thousand feet of scrambling). The climbing is spectacular and the views magnificent, but be prepared for run-out slab, wet moss, loose rock, routefinding issues, and missing rappel stations. A good time was had by all. [ 06-03-2002, 10:06 AM: Message edited by: mattp ]

OK, so I can't read a calendar. Yes, the club normally meets on Tuesdays.

Bear Mountain might be worth a look.

Greg - Did you find a partner for Sunday. I might be interested though I'd be more interested in Blueberry Hill than Three O'Clock Rock. -- Matt

Alpine K has it right. Head fifty yards uphill from the White Salmon base and follow the cat track through the woods to the left. Where it ends, a bit below a chair lift, you just keep going straight ahead, dropping slightly, and you'll cross a couple of chutes before encountering the avalache debris piles in the basin below Shuksan Arm. Then you'll climb a short headwall to reach the basin below the White Salmon. At this time of year, there is usually an open water supply just as you reach that higher basin.

Sorry I missed you this week Don. I have a good excuse, honest I do (I was moving that day). But the turnout up here in Seattle has also been a little low lately (only fifteen or so showed up at Fiddler's Inn, compared to crowds of thirty or so for a month or two earlier this spring). It may just be spring fever, but I think Ray's strong-arm argument has set us back somewhat. Anyway, I don't think anybody from Tacoma has shown up in Seattle lately, but I for one am not holding that against you. Sign me up for the next Tacoma event.

One of our local sport climbing areas has several routes with construction adhesive holding loose rocks in place. I believe the guy may have used whatever he could buy at Home Depot, and squirted it in cracks with a cauk gun. You might ask somebody who works with marble buildings what would be the best product to use. I agree with the idea that the use of glue is less than aesthetic, but the Seattle climbing area that has that stuff was not developed for its beauty. It is really more of an outdoor gym than what some of us would call a climbing area. So in my opinion, the consideration of whether or not to use glue depends at least in part on where the route is going to be. I'g guessing you aren't putting up a wilderness route in Canyonlands. [ 05-30-2002, 09:46 AM: Message edited by: mattp ]

Where?

I've only done one route on Hood, but my personal favorite is Yocum Ridge. It was not very difficult in the conditions that we found it, but it was highly scenic and very exciting. When the ridge is fully rimed, I doubt there is a more fun way up that mountain.

Heinrick - I think that Alex actually mis-marked the photo and that the exit gully we used is actually up and right from that shown by the line on my photo. However, I drew this to his attention and Alex is sticking with his ID of our exit couloir. You'll have to go up there and find out for yourself where the best exit is.

About ten years ago I went with a large group to enjoy some fun in the sun at Green Lakes over Memorial Day weekend (I highly recommend this as a destination for turns and tanning) and the road was in a similar state: fully plowed but gated. Being law abiding citizens, we set off on foot to walk down the road to the Fall Creek trailhead. One of our buddies, however, hadn't shown up and about an hour later, when we were almost to the trailhead, the guy shows up in his car. In his CAR -- what?? It turned out that some grey-haired RV drivers wearing jump suits had a pair of bolt cutters and they had decided it was time to open the gate at Dutchman Flat.

Bring the pig to the next pub club and all will be forgiven.

On the other hand, I've climbed Backbone when there was still plenty of snow on the face (it was the first week of May on a moderate snow year)and there was in fact very little snow on the route but just enough so drinking water was no problem.

An old college buddy and I went to ski up in Glacier Basin on this spring weekend (May 18-19) with a forecast for rain showers. At 4:20 on Saturday afternoon, we left the car in a gentle rain. There was about 3 feet of snow at the parking lot at Barlow Pass. We quickly got tired of taking our skis on and off and we didn't want to trash our skins on the road, so we just carried them into the Monte Cristo townsite, stumbling along in the slushy snow. At cocktail hour, we found a dry patch of ground on which to set up camp in the townsite, although the area was pretty solidly covered in 4 feet of snow. At bedtime, a mouse kept trying to climb into my sleeping bag. On Sunday, we skinned up and over the hump below Willman's Spires, and then on up the Glacier Basin headwall to a col between Monte Cristo and Cadet Peak. I climbed up higher for a view, but my buddy made it clear that this was as far as he wanted to go, so I took in the view: Glacier Peak rose up into the clouds to the NE, and the Chiwaukums did the same to the SE, but the peaks to the W, all the way out to Three Fingers, stood proud and tall. In the basin, some water ice lingered on the cliffs below Willman's Peak, and enough snow was plastered to the NW face of MonteCristo itself that it would make a moderate snowclimb right now if you could catch it when frozen. Even though it was a cloudy day, enough snow filtered through and it was warm enough to trigger avalanches from cliffs on all sides of Glacier Basin, and we sat there for a bit, watching the show. After enjoying a couple of runs in VERY slushy snow with large but very slow surface slides accompanying every turn, we headed back to retrieve our luggage and slog out to the car. Skis were more useful on the way out the Monte Cristo road than we had found them on the way in. View of Wilman's Peak, Wilman's Spires, Del Campo Peak, and Vesper Peak; Doug Swan skiing: