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Nice work, gentlemen. And don't get too worked up if some dork replies by saying he descended it on boards. It's a fact that you can ski anything to which powder will stick.

Ask Jim at promountainsports. Midway Direct Direct used to have a higher bolt. In its current condition, it's probably a deadly lead for a 5.9 climber .

Nice! Rumor has it that with those late-model VW vans, you don't have to dangle a leg to the highway to help "pedal" when driving over Steven's Pass.

Yo Mister E, You still driving that stabbin' cabin, the one with the funky curtains and the growing lights?

Spectacular photos! to you!

Sport climb? I was under the impression that you intended to go climbing.

TEACING CHARACTER THROUGH SPORT by Bruce Brown. Here's a thought-provoking quote from the book (author unknown): PASSING THE BUCK Said the professor, "Such rawness in a student is a shame. Lack of preparation in high school is to blame." Said the high school teacher, "Good heavens, that boy's a fool. The fault, of course, is with the middle school." The middle school teacher said, "From such stupidity may I be spared. They sent him to me so unprepared." The primary teacher huffed, "Kindergarten blockheads all. They call that preparation? Why this is worse than none at all." The kindergarten teacher said, "Such lack of training never did I see. What kind of woman must the mother be?" The mother said, "Poor helpless child. He's not to blame. His father's folks were just the same." Said the father at the end of the line, "I doubt the rascal's even mine."

Q. What's the difference between a Harley and a Hoover? A. The position of the dirtbag.

"Hey it's the 20th century. Whatever it takes to have a good time let's get on with it, so long as it doesn't cause a murder." Zappa (from the tune Jazz Discharge Party Hat)

Fairweather is the kind of conservative I admire, especially for his ability to overcome his visceral reaction to homosexuals and admit that same-sex marriage probably isn't going to hurt anybody. I have a cousin who after high school escaped from a rural farm in E. Wash and moved to San Francisco. Our suspicions were later confirmed. His extremely conservative parents, even his very traditional, manly-man father, continue to love him and welcome him into their home. They and I want him to be happy, to enjoy life as fully as possible, since his early years in a rural community were hell (I believe the ratio is 75% of gay high school students who commit suicide). My wife's cousin came out on Independence Day last summer. Why shouldn't he be allowed to marry another adult, if this is what he desires? What's the harm? I heard the issue discussed on a conservative talk show today, and the host suggested that the harm is that he shouldn't have to explain to his own children why two men are holding hands and wearing rings. Doesn't he uderstand that it could be HIS children that pursue this avenue? Having a couple of gay guys in my family made me realize this. Cavey, just remember that while you're entitled to your opinions and your vote, you're damn lucky to live in a free country. If you believe in and value this freedom, why would you wish to impose your norms on the private lives of others? All of us have cultural traditions, mostly derived from our parents, which dictate our social behavior and religious practices. We are all, at times, uncomfortable with how our neighbors go about their business. But perhaps there is no greater patriot than he who welcomes or at least tolerates those groups which make him most uneasy. Next time you're offended by the mere sight of a gay couple, just remember that you could have been born into this CULTURE .

I'll send you an Eiger Sanction lobby card. Imagine what the many guests will say when they visit your uniquely-decorated front room! Here's an opportunity to make a statement, to adorn your home with the kind of article that becomes a discussion focus, to give the impression that you know something about interior decoration, about collecting art, and about the appreciation of avant-garde films. I'd send you a Brenda Venus 8X10 but you put shoe-gu on 'em. Who knows what kind of gu you'd put on the 8X10?

Unfortunately, Cutthroat is also in Nelson and therefore another victim of crowding. The Boe-Alps use it for teaching beginners as well. Damn, damn, damn. That piece of shit made it into Nelson's guide? OK, officially this time, the South Buttress of Cutthroat is a terrible climb. Loose, dangerous, mossy, perennially damp, and haunted by the ghost of an old pederast miner. STAY AWAY FROM THIS CLIMB!

Yes, I suppose. However, on my last two trips to the area, it seemed that every route mentioned by Nelson had at least three parties on it and I'm not exaggerating. There is quality climbing to be found up there beyond the Liberty Bell massif.

Not worth doing? Dirty and unaesthetic climb? It's more of a mountaineering route than some of the Washington Pass climbs recommended in this thread. But dirty and unaesthetic? Matt, I've done it twice and found it to be a pleasant route. Perhaps it is ceaner than when you did it last (1958?); several people I've talked to said the route is cool (nice approach, great views, fairly sound rock and an awesome looking peak that towers over Hwy 20), although it is not too technically demanding. Earlier in the year (late June/early July), the approach passes through a brilliant carpet of glacier lilies. This climb IS worth doing, but certainly not the best rock route at the Pass (I'll agree with you on that, Matt). With three people who want a quality introduction to Washington climbing, without having to sit in line on one of the fine (but perhaps overhyped) rock climbs on Hwy 20, Cutthroat S. Buttress is a nice climb. You could get in line on one of the trade routes recommended above. Sure, you'll find clean rock, but with three people and the crowds you typically meet on those climbs......jeeesh.

I don't know the answer to that. But perhaps you could help me with a question. Why is it that I can't stop staring at your avatar image? It is by far the most intiguing item on this site.

That's very juvenile of you, Dru. I'm certain he climbs at that moral wasteland in order to offer an example to the lost generation. Even Jesus supped with 'tutes.

I climbed a couple of things with a guy named Peter, a sophomore at the U.W. who had the coolest attitude. Even in the worst weather, this kid wanted to climb. Not to say he was stupid or anything. If the weather indicated high avalanche danger, he might call off an attempt on a snowy peak, but that didn't mean he wanted to sit home and study at the coffee house. He was game to head to the hills when it was absolutely dumping rain in Seattle. He just loved being out there that much. I can think of several, younger climbers who have displayed a similar passion/obsession with climbing, and I like to be around such people since their enthusiasm is contagious.

Index faces south and the dark, granitic rock soaks up the heat. Two blocks of chock and four quarts of water per person per day, in this weather. Washington Pass is generally cooler but can be really buggy this time of year. Bring your favorite blood-sucker spray. While Leavenworth is hot (and smoky yesterday), Midnight Rock takes a good while to warm up, with no direct sun until later in the day. It's a hard approach for a crag but has Washington's best crack routes and you will never have to wait in line, due to the approach. I agree that the beauty of Washington pass is something to show off to your guests. With three people I'd just go peak bagging, something with a view where you can pass parties (or be passed). That's why I suggested Cutthroat Peak's S. Buttress. Squamish's Grand Wall is a day climb.....a long day when you get caught in traffic. I've done it only once, when I climbed pretty solidly on 5.10/5.11- and with the Cruel Shoes start (not to be missed!) it required about 5 hours (with the Beckham undercling and no Roman Chimneys finish). Have fun. Be safe. Check those knots!

Go to Index, do Davis Holland/Lovin' Arms and Centerfold if you're still amped. Squamish can be done in a day, but do you wish to climb or drive? Another fun day trip is the S. Butt on Cutthroat Peak. No 5.12 on this route, but a good climb for a party of three. Dreamer at Darrington is an excellent day of slabby rock. The best concentration of short, super fun routes at 5.9 to 5.11 is certainly Squamish, but I wouldn't make a day trip unless you can do it on a weekday. It tends to be pretty crowded on the weekends. OK, back to the back-breaking, back-yard yard work.

Sorry to divert this thread a bit, but this is why I believe you see such a big bunch of computer and science geek types engaging in rock climbing. The cool jocks in high school were usually the ones with the coordination, speed and reaction time necessary for most of the "ball" sports. The geeks needed to focus on other things like science, computers and sh*t, ..................until they discovered rock climbing and peak bagging. Mentioning coordination, Stimson was a boxing champ in college. His book River Dark and Bright (Willows Press) is a fascinating read. Here's a great quote from his memoir: One notion grew to become a fixed conviction: that you should strive to fulfill your own potential. You should try to put out all your energies in pursuit of your ends so that you go to the junkyard with no gas left in your tank. This man is a role model for all who intend to live beyond their youth.

OK, here's another one. What's the difference between a goat and a donkey? Wrong! Trask has them both tied up, but the donkey doesn't give it up without drinks.

Question: What's the difference between a goat and a chicken? Answer: Trask doesn't have a chicken tied up in his bedroom.....yet.

I enjoyed reading your post, Jeffski. Sounds like you guys had a satisfying adventure. I did the route with a guy who was following 5.11 pithces in Squamish and he thought the chimney pitch was a bitch. The quality of that route is tough to match.

Dude, right on! Details please. Was this the big climb for which you were soliciting bivi secrets?

Wow! Check out hangdogwatchdog's response to the clown who started this discussion!