texplorer

Do not come to Oregon. The climbing sucks here worse. Our volcanoes are all erupting and those that are not are large piles of dinner-plate stacked crap. Leavenworth is much more solid rock than anything in Oregon. I just got the new guidebook to Smith rock. It is only three pages long and describes how smith rock fell down.

Climbing is like going into battle. Some people like using broadswords whilst others like using axes. If you can get the job done and come back another day then you have succeeded. Of course there are those of you that throw rocks and run away. You all have opinions on weaponry too but then again you never truely go into battle so your opinions are mute. Camalots are my choice but Friends are good too. Aliens are the lords of the micro realm.

I'm trying of moving to Portland as well in October. Will, if you find a cheap enough place but need a roommate give me a yell.

Not a Mormon, W but having multiple partners all the time would be nice.

Vanilla coke

Thanks for the info Russ, I guess I heard some big made up story about the incident. Your side sounds alot more like reality.

Horsecock and Snafflehounds Do Dallas

I check to make sure the knots are tied and my belay device is correctly threaded and then go just like I check my mirrors before I change lanes on the highway. Both are dangerous but once you get the hang of them I don't think you need to say a mantra.

I agree with DavidG! It's a great route. Just an added note -The log that the "Fifty Classics" book describes and Bug climbed is gone and the route now takes a different path (ie the pendulum is not where the log was). Rumor has it that some yahoo euros finished the log off on purpose way back in the day and were welcomed by getting their asses kicked by some valley locals. I think I know where that offwidth crack that you fell on. Its quite a difficult bit. Highlander and I got off route on that thing this spring. We were soloing the route but brought the rope in case he didn't feel comfortable. I climbed that pitch with no pro and it scared the living shit out of me. Your account was a scary reminder of that experience. I'm glad I didn't take the big one that you did. You are a certified hardman in my book.

I hate the Mazamas!!!

I like my Carhardt's. They are heavy, soak up water like a mutha, dry about as fast as christmas, shrink and fade with every wash, but they look cool. If you climb real cracks though they are the shizzle. I am proudly a member of CFC (Climber's for Carhardts)

Um, moonshine has about 3 jams on it. In my book- not a hand crack.

I've seen many so-called pimps suck bad. Most of you are probably in that category but mainly Trask. I think it's funny how you talk shit and bore us with gumby TRs ("Oh man, I had a hot blond in bed the other night and ...damn near blah, blah, blah"). Big fucking deal!!! Go get some lessens or quit wasting us real pimpz's time with your pathetic suckass shit. You all know who you are (trask).

Cruel Sister, .10a, Smith Easter Overhang, .10c?, Midnight Rock Blownout, .10b, Beacon Rock final pitch of Stanley/Burgner Route, .9+, Prussik Peak Supercrack, .12, Midnight Rock Free For All, .8, Beacon Rock

Is this the Gift?

If you use a hex, you might need to add a quickDru to prevent rope drag.

"These are not the Nike's your looking for." "Stop fool, your Jedi mind trips don't work on brothas."

The word through the grapevine is that a few routes and extraneous anchors have been chopped recently. . . .

My bad, I haven't soloed the routes your talking about Alex. I read erik's post and thought he was talking about the Zip I have never been on Toxic Shock or Even Steven. I misread Eriks post. Sorry Erik.

Decepticons were the shizzle

They fit better into pods, pockets, and pin scars than tcu's because their flexible cables and narrow design. In doing so they have not compromised strength however and are as strong as tcu's. I like tcu's too. In many situations they work just as well as aliens but they are just less versatile in my opinion.

Its granite and takes super gear. If you pop a piece on that thing you don't know how to place gear. Oh, and in lab tests, aliens have more holding power than any other cam.

Yes Erik, in fact I soloed the route about a month ago. I did no liebacking on the route either. It takes bigger stuff down low and then is the quintessential alien country as you approach the crux. Aliens are made for parallel sided finger cracks. The crux is a long reach to a fingerlock with kind of small feet that you can only get your toes into. I found the most insecure stuff actually above the "crux" with some rattleyfingers but with the angle kicked back.

Aliens are the shizzle to the nizzle. Sometimes you have to place cams in "not so ideal situations." It is a drawback that sometimes if they blow out they get ruined as in Alex's case. A TCU however wouldn't hold in the same situation it would just pop out. Who said pods are evil anyway. Pods are great feet and climbins all about the feet.

Yep I took a 30fter on the YG last year.