ryland_moore

I think Plexus is right, climbing with those better than you will help you imrpove your abilities. Especially if they are encouraging you and giving you suggestions as to how to improve or how you should have tried a move to make it easier. Bouldering in a gym can actually imrpove your abilities outside. I find it helpful when you boulder in a gym (very social setting) and you try really hard moves that may require technique you do not use often or are too afraid to do 15 ft above your last piece of gear or even on a bolted route. Practicing the move itself has come in handy for me quite often and has allowed to start moving into the .11 range (on sport that is). Crack climbing is frustrating to train for, b/c the only real way to practrice cracks is to do it and gyms typically don't offer that as much. Bouldering can also become a hinderance, b/c if you focus on it too much, you only build power and lose your endurance! Mix it up have fun and I am just hoping it will come eventually for me.... I don't want to take the fun out of it.

I thought this was a thread on breaking OUT of the 5.10s into harder grades?

From my recollection, it is a short Smith route. 50 meters would get you all the way down to the bottom, but anything shorter would leave you having to do a second rappel, if that is what they were doing. Hope she recovers, but just because you can see the parking lot doesn't mean you have to leave you mind up there at the car.

I heard she was on Ginger Snap when she fell. How high is that? 50 ft. maybe?So the rope had to have been shorter than 40 meters. Maybe more like 30 meters. There isn't much at Smith you can do with that amount of rope and for her to fall 20-30 ft. from the bottom means that the rope had to be even shorter. Say 3 ft to tie in, on a 50ft. route and saying she fell 20 ft. instead of 30 ft. means that they were climbing on a 25 meter rope!!!!!! (up to the anchor is 50 ft, and back down is 30 ft. for a collective 80 ft. plus 3 ft to tie in is 83 ft = ~25 meters).

Iain described my climbing ability to a T. I grew up sport climbing on steep sandstone in the South. I had done some occassional trad climbing on friction at Looking Glass and Stone Mountain, and occassional trad lines at T-Wall, but didn't get into trad until moving out west. Alpine trad is very different than the "sport-climbing-like trad at T-Wall. Many Trad climbs were put up way before the rating system ever jumped above 5.9, so the old-school grades are typically harder than the newer sport-climbing grades. I can still have trouble with an alpine 5.8 put up in the 60's and flash 5.10 sport climbs like Chicken McNuggets at Smith with ease. I think a lot of it comes down to how you train. Crack climbing still seems foreign to me and I tend to look for tiny crimps and edges when climbing cracks. Also, Crack climbing leaves me more mentally and physically drained (enitre body), while sport climbs leave my fingers and forearms tired. I still feel like I suck at Trad, but I probably just need to lead more. Also, I have only taken one fall on trad and therefore less likely to push myself on sport than on trad. As for my abilities, I have TR'ed up to 5.11d sport and 5.10 trad (once on Caveat Emptor in Death Canyon, Tetons) and have redpointed .11a sport (but have tried to lead .11c) and have lead 5.9 trad, but do not feel comfortable leading that grade. To sum it up, climbing and climbing grades are so variable - depending on who put the route up, when it was put up, and where it was put up. Just because I say I lead 5.11 means that I could actually lead anywhere from 5.8 to 5.12 depending on where and what you are climbing. In my book, a 5.9 at Index is harder for me than a 5.11 sport at Smith or even a 5.11+ at the Callahans. My two cents for what it's worth...

Had a great weekend climbing with Iain at Smith and got to meet some other fellow cc.comer's like TLG, J-Dog, SEF, and others. Froze on Saturday night in the grasslands, but enjoyed the high 50's sunshine during the day! Got spanked on Heresy -hardest lead to date, but will be back on it soon now that I know the moves! All in all, an excellent Fall weekend of clipping bolts.

The weather forecast is now saying high 50s! Best Fall climbing weather out there I've seen yet! My friend was there last weekend and he said on the routes facing sun, he was climbing without his shirt on (and it wasn't to attract belay bunnnies)

Here is 40 Below's reply to my asking why they advertise the uppers of the K2 Superlight overboots as windproof when they are not. I guess Mountaineers around the world can't be too wrong if they continue to use the product on the world's highest peaks! quote: You do indeed have the K2 Superlight ( the Everest has a rubber sole on the bottom). We use a Cordura nylon that is "windproof" by the typical definition, and yes you can blow air through it. Maybe we should say wind resistant. The reason we use this is to allow for moisture to escape. We specifically do not use a "waterproof/ breathable" (which actually do not "breath" at all) such as Gore-Tex because you are the moisture source in extreme cold temperatures.

Why you stuck in flatland? Just get in the car and drive!!!!!

I put in an e-mail to the owner. It definately says windproof in the catalogue, and it definately ain't windproof. Will give more specifics after I receive an explanation. Ryland

I just received a pair of overboots (will not name the company b/c I think they make excellent gear), and the overboot was advertized as having windproof nylon uppers. After looking at them (I could see light through the pours on the uppers)I could blow air through the nylon. How is this windproof? It definately is breathable! I held it over my face and could breathe effortlessly through the material. Any suggestions/insight about this or how this makes it windproof?

SEF check your PM's. Anyone else wanna go? It will be a nice Fall weekend!

Was thinking of heading to SAmith this weekend (Sat and Sunday) to do a little climbing. Most rpobably have loftier plans, but I have to work on Friday. Can be over there by Friday night. Will do some trad lines (prefer multi-pitch, but am really jonesing to get some revenge on some sport climbs I left unsent last Spring. Any interest out there? I lead 5.11 sport and 5.8-5.9 trad. Will follow up to 5.10 trad and hard 5.11 sport.

Excellent TR. You've got more ballz than I do. I've looked at the thing in rime ice conditions and thought to myself, "Maybe". I've looked at it with no snow and thought, "No fucking way!" (for me at least. Glad you all made it down safe. Excellent TR and you live to climb it another day. Congrats. Good luck on round 2.

I second mneagle and jimmy leg. The penguin colony is cool and the mice are bad! Chewed a hole in my new Gregory Denali! It is best to just put you food in a plastic grovery bag and hang those from the small beech trees (sons of beeches hahahah!). The mice are very skilled at sliding down the rope you hang your food bag with. Who cares if they chew through a plastic bag or not, but it sucks when your stuff sacks or packs or even tents get chewed on. Safe travels. Oh yeah, the salmon at La Burbuha (restaurant) in Puerto Natales is excellent!Save it for after your circuit hike. If you really have time. I would definately reccommend taking the NAVIMAG boat through the fiors of S. Chile back to Puerto Mont. Amazing scenery and wildlife and you get to see a part of the world that very few ever have a chance to see. Plus it is cheap. Three days going north two going south. Enjoy!

Oh yeah, a bunch of hard-core Chilean climbers started a youth hostel in Puerto Natales called Concepto Indigo . They are big-wall mad men who climb all the time and even have a climbing wall. I met Steve Schneider there in 1999 after his solo ascent of the Central Tower and new route, Golazo 5.10+ A4+. Pretty chill place. Plus there are some nice multipitch climbs in the area that the guys could tell you about. Sit around, listen to stories of fierce Patagonian battles in the mountains and get drunk off of Gato Negro box wine. Good times! The fishing ain't too bad down there either. Sea run browns avg. 10-15 lbs. Fun on a 7 weight! [ 11-21-2002, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: ryland moore ]

Fucker!!! I say go before and after the business. You could take a ferry over the Strait of Magellan to Tierra del Fuego and climb some smaller less-technical glaciated peaks. Or go to Los Glaciares National Park and spend a few days hiking to basecamps of Cerro Fitzroy and Torre. Then spend a week in Torres del Paine National Park. You have to do the Circuit. If you do the zig-zag route, you miss out on the most spectacular valleys in the park. We did this hike counter-clockwise (highly rec. b/c of the ease of going over the pass from this side). E-mail me or PM me if you want more details. Definately take some time to really enjoy it. You can make it from Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas in a day by bus. Most hostels (people's homes in Natales) will set up bus pick up for Torres del Paine National Park. You can be hiking and to the first camp by the afternoon. Once done with the circuit, you can get transportation to Los Glaciares National Park (El Chalten). Bussing is very easy to do down there, especially during the peak of the their summer! If you go to Torres Del Paine and do not take the day hikes up Valle Frances and Valle Ascencio to the very top Miradors, then you are missing out on some of the most spectacluar and beautiful sceney in the World! Have a blast......Fucker!!!! [ 11-21-2002, 02:08 PM: Message edited by: ryland moore ]

Abbott and Costello in the White House > > Playwright Jim Sherman wrote this today after Hu Jintao was named > chief of the Communist Party in China. > > HU'S ON FIRST > > (We take you now to the Oval Office.) > > George: Condi! Nice to see you. What's happening? > > Condi: Sir, I have the report here about the new leader of China. > > George: Great. Lay it on me. > > Condi: Hu is the new leader of China. > > George: That's what I want to know. > > Condi: That's what I'm telling you. > > George: That's what I'm asking you. Who is the new leader of China? > > Condi: Yes. > > George: I mean the fellow's name. > > Condi: Hu. > > George: The guy in China. > > Condi: Hu. > > George: The new leader of China. > > Condi: Hu. > > George: The Chinaman! > > Condi: Hu is leading China. > > George: Now whaddya' asking me for? > > Condi: I'm telling you Hu is leading China. > > George: Well, I'm asking you. Who is leading China? > > Condi: That's the man's name. > > George: That's who's name? > > Condi: Yes. > > George: Will you or will you not tell me the name of the new leader of > China? > > Condi: Yes, sir. > > George: Yassir? Yassir Arafat is in China? I thought he was in the > Middle East. > > Condi: That's correct. > > George: Then who is in China? > > Condi: Yes, sir. > > George: Yassir is in China? > > Condi: No, sir. > > George: Then who is? > > Condi: Yes, sir. > > George: Yassir? > > Condi: No, sir. > > George: Look, Condi. I need to know the name of the new leader of > China. Get me the Secretary General of the UN on the phone. > > Condi: Kofi? > > George: No, thanks. > > Condi: You want Kofi? > > George: No. > > Condi: You don't want Kofi. > > George: No. But now that you mention it, I could use a glass of milk. > And then get me the UN > > Condi: Yes, sir. > > George: Not Yassir! The guy at the UN > > Condi: Kofi? > > George: Milk! Will you please make the call? > > Condi: And call who? > > George: Who is the guy at the U.N? > > Condi: Hu is the guy in China. > > George: Will you stay out of China?! > > Condi: Yes, sir. > > George: And stay out of the Middle East! Just get me the guy at the UN > > Condi: Kofi. > > George: All right! With cream and two sugars. Now get on the phone. > > (Condi picks up the phone.) > > Condi: Rice, here. > > George: Rice? Good idea. And a couple of egg rolls, too. Maybe we > should send some to the guy in China. And the Middle East. Can you get Chinese food in the Middle East?

IceIceBaby get a new avatar, this one's taken. Even Sisu thought you were me! If you have a name like that then maybe you should get an avatar to match?

U should find some other Avatar since you don’t have any connection once or ever through your handle name I propose that YOU drop this avatar and leave it to username that fit the description better I do have a connection.....that little fucker stole my ski goggles! If you see him, tell him I want my goggles, my bike, my money, and my jacket back! It's kinda like a WANTED poster for me.

Vert, when should I come out? (Hint, Hint) I could screw Smith next weekend if you need a climbing partner to do some exploring over there! I'll bring the beer!

Fucking scary isn't it? He probably doesn't even know that the lens caps are still on. Seen the pic of him reading along with a 2nd grader and his copy that he is holding is upside down?

gulf wars Episode II Read the bottom bwahahahah!! [ 11-20-2002, 03:27 PM: Message edited by: ryland moore ]

IIB, you are the 3rd guy with the same avatar. Neither of us is black, but the fact that you don't even climb and live in cement world makes your case even worse. Go boulder in the park and get some clean air once in a while. I think all of those homeless farts, trash, and smog is getting in you goggles. Actually, maybe all of that pollution has permanently stained your skin!

Mtn Goat, maybe I did not make myself clear. His personal agenda IS affecting us as citizens in a NEGATIVE way. Citiznes by definition is everyone. You, me, the girl next door that I boned last night. His personal agenda is more money, more oil, bigger business, and he is coming at this from his own personal betterment (his back pocket)and Not what is best for the country. War inherently means a decline in the economy. GW is taking on Iraq without the UN's consent and looking for any loophole he can find that will allow him to bomb the shit out of Iraq regardless of what the UN discovers (that isn't being a rat? - sneaky). I think this is a family agenda b/c Senior Bush felt like a failure in the Gulf War or something. Maybe he has leader's syndrome where he feels depressed b/c he is out and Saddam is still in power. My father, grandfather, and two of my uncles are all finacial advisors, investment bankers, and stock brokers. They are also all Republicans, but know in times of war and in many cases, in times when an extreme right President is at the healm, the economy is reduced. That is why he pulls my and my family's money from the stock market and invests in long-term mutual funds and real estate. That is why I or my family hasn't lost their shirts over the last year, unlike many of my friends. Maybe ALlan Greenspan should be president. He is the most powerful man in the country anyways. I bet GW couldn't change the way millions of people behave just by saying a few words! [ 11-20-2002, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: ryland moore ]