ryland_moore

SOunds like a weirdo. Damn, no wonder I always felt funny after eating that Buffalo Cock! Probably not Buffalo at all. http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/1651543.stm

Sketch, You must have proper knowledge of the terms you are using. BBQ-ing and grilling out are two different things. BBQ-ing is what southerners do usually by pulling the meat (pork or beef) from the bone and slow cooking it for a day. Grilling is what you throw on the grill when you have guests over and marinades can be anything, while IMHO, the best BBQ marinade is vinegar based. Also, for some real HC near Bend, on your way to Smith, before you get to the parking lot, there used to be a sign that said Buffalo Meat , or something close. I've bought Buffalo Summer sausage from the guy and it is awesome. Plus it is huge! Kinda like Trask's Ass!

Peaceful protest or not, GW made a complete fool of himself to both sides of the spectrum by not doing his homework. He made a clear statement that he would "activate" and "put into practice" the 1994 Northwest Forest Plan by following the recs. in the Plan and create 100,000 new jobs. Unfortunately, Mr. Bush only read the Cliffs on the Plan and did not realize that the Plan only pertains to Federal lands and therefore only 10,000 new Federal jobs were to be created. He also didn't realize that since the 1994 Plan was accepted, and ammended when 10,000 new jobs was deemed an overestimation,over 6,000 new jobs have been created and very few areas are left to fill. He tried to back track once confronted by saying that the other 90,000 jobs would come from private timber lands and local businesses that benefit from timber industry. So which is it Mr. Bush? Follow the 1994 plan and try and create 10,000 federal jobs that already exist or focus your attentioan away from the NW Forest Plan and provide subsidies to private timber industries like Weyco? You are a loser marionette.

Good luck!

I am religious about this and do not just trust anyone with this job as I've had bad experiences prior to these guys, but if you want high quality and professional work go to Rubber Room in Bishop http://rubberroomresoles.com/

Yeah, that's the one BC site I saw earlier - doesn't go out far enough. The ones that do are saying Saturday nice weather, Sunday bad, Monday worse. How predictible is that? It is about a week away. Time will tell. I'll be pissed if the entire Cascades are crapped out for a long weekend. Will make me regret selling my Ducks tix! Disregard above, just chercked two of the sites that I looked at this morning and they have already changed. Now saying weather bad Monday, Tuesday, sunday cloudy.

Looking bad for the latter of this coming weekend too. There seems to be a large front coming in cause they are calling for showers Tuesday at Smith. Clouds, rain, and T-storms for N. Cascades up into B.C. That one tech. weather report doesn't go out far enough. Dru, got any good online forecasts you trust for BC/US border? Still planning on NE Face of Redoubt. The one I saw said rain Sun, Mon, Tues. Those guys can't predict shit normally, but a big system coming in is a little hard to miss. I'll wait and pray 'til the weekend nears.

Overboard, Zebra Direct (crimpy!) and Blue Light Special at Smith are some of my favorite .11s to lead. My all-time favorite sport route is Towering Inferno (.11b) at Owens. Sccchhwwweeet!

Plenty of bouldering within an hour of Eugene and all west of the Cascades. Just need to know where to go. Many secret spots being developed as we speak from V-easy to V-8. Also, Lost rocks in Northern Cali is awesome for those of you who live down this way. Awesome way to spend a weekend. Huge highballs right on the Coast.

Bring this to top.............. I'll settle for any words of wisdom from anyone who has ever done this climb. Like camping in the valley (swamp) or head up to Ouzel Lake?

Also learned how to climb back east (clipping bolts). There is plenty of rock around ya - even good bouldering along a river near downtown (if there is such a thing as a downtown in sprawl city). Check out Foster Falls, Tennessee Wall, Sunset, Suck Creek Canyon, Looking Glass, NC, and any trad area in Western NC for that matter. You can do weekend trips easily to all these areas. I know there is large climbing community down there, as they were always in TN and NC on the weekends. Also some nice areas around Birmingham and smaller areas in N. Georgia mountains. If you need contacts, have a friend who lives in Hotlanta and flies out here every year a few times to climb in the Cascades. He is also doing Denali with us next spring. You can pick his brain if you'd like. Don't know how much longer he will be in Hotlanta though. Tired of flying out here and is moving back to Jackson Hole within the year.

Thnaks for the redirect. I'm already getting psyched!

Anyone been up there this summer? Lately? Heading up for Labor Day with 3 others. Thinking of 2 rope teams of two, a couple pickets, 8-10 screws. snow/ice conditions? shrund difficulties? Suggestions on climbing the rock vs. picking the way through maze on the glacier? Mosquitos? Thanks.

I'm with ya. Never been to Pinto, so can't speak from experience. Hope nobody bolts lines that can be done with gear.

sk and others, ready to go, have rope, rack, but no belay partner. O.k.? May have to miss beers as I need to meet a friend that I am housesitting for this weekend.

I don't necessarily associate "developing" with sport routes. New lines never sent need cleaning, discovering where placements go, etc. Even sending a route from the ground up on trad is "developing" a new route in my book. Maybe Offwhite is just waiting to see if there has already been FAs in the area. Although I do suggest that if bolts are being placed out there on potential routes that could easily take pro, then those interested should curb any bolting intentions by making it clear that most if not all potential lines can take pro. If not, then when bolts start magically appearing, you can't really complain. Make it known that this area's potential lines can go on gear!

Already planning on being at the Hampton shows (using excuse to go back for the Holidays to visit my paretns in Virginia. Hopefully the Hampton Coliseum won't sink too much (It's been sinking an inch or so a year). Also will see WSP in Hotlanta for New Year's.

I'd like to know conditions too. A friend of mine is taking his kid up the south (dog)route and wants to know if crampons are needed this time of year or will an axe suffice? I've never been up that side.

You work? Where do ya find the time to amass 5,700 posts?

I think Highlander did the 4th class choss, loose rock scramble to the left of the gully two weeks ago? Highlander, wanna add?

As a Southerner, anything with mayonnaise is automatically good! Dru, the sandwich you speak of is similar to one I was raised on except instead of raisins, try banana. It is awesome. I am not sure you can get "real" mayonnaise in the PNW. I have mine shipped out from North Carolina and it is called Dukes. If anyone finds it out here, LET ME KNOW! I feel I am a connoisseur on mayonnaise as I did not have store-bought until I went to college. I have tried about 10-15 different types of "real" mayonnaise out here and they just do not compare. Mao and PB crackers are good, so are mayo, PB, tomato, lettuce, mustard, turkey and pepper sandwiches (the PB is the key to this concoction). Also mayo, tomato, and pepper sandwiches are awesome too. Bon appetit!

Just my idea of fun. Race all that way and get to Coeur d'Alene and run to jump into the latest edition to the Superfund sites across the US (the lake)! Actually it was knocked down as a superfund site b/c the EPA said that all the heavy metals in the water left over from mining days were "secure" in the lake bed. Sounds like a fun trip. Maybe we could incorporate the "scuba climbing" that was talked about a few months back, although how does one grade difficulty when chemicals and heavy metals are added to the mix ?

I thought Canary was 5.9?

Or maybe we learn from those accidents and are more aware and cautious in looking out for getting into situations like these. That is how I look at "Accidents in NA Mountaineering" and that is how I look at this one, whether a stupid mistake was made or not.

I agree with everyone's posts here so far, but I also feel that the guys below the climbers that fell showed just as much inexperience as those that actually started the snowball effect. If you are in the fall line of other parties or travelling so close to another party that you could smell a fart from another rope team, then that shows plain disregard to the potential hazards that can occur. I feel that all parties who went into the shrund could be blamed or found neglegent. It just sucks that a precedent could be set just because family members who are not in the know act in a litigious manner and want someone else to face reprocussions for their loved one's actions. Problem with the human race - never facing up to one's mistakes. We suck.