but on a free climb, 1)if everything goes right you dont even weight any of your pieces, 2) you only put in gear where there are good places for it not every bodylength as you advance.
the only pc. aside from hooks i dont bounce, are bomber cams (eg placed in a solid fist crack not in a flake) and nuts sloted eeep in constrictions etc. everything else that isnt bodyweight is potentially suspect and tested
especially on new ground
now if sending an established route you can trust that more of the flakes and edges and stuff are solid just cause they are still there, and you can spot old scars and re use them rather than digging thru moss lookingfor a crack...