Dru

Thanks to Jon My computer just played some George Clinton And now is blasting out some Devo.

I am young And I know everything Except.... what is the best beer I am still testing that one!

who need chatter when you got the shoutbox

I am scared of Up From Despair at Crag X. Despite the fact I have heard it is easy for 10c there is something about how thin it looks and the "tenuous liebacking" phrase that makes me look and go elsewhere.

real man dirtbag uses a LongDong piton as a knife, and a 2" angle as a spoon, to eat breakfast in the Grand wAll parking lot

Peter Jordan and Sara Golling climbed the NE face which is on the other(south) side of the left hand skyline. Their route looks good but you approach via Riley Creek for that.

It is hard to get scale in the picture but base of face = 6300' Summit = 9470' Big mountain!

Don Serl and I drove up to Lillooet and climbed this mountain. We approached from Enterprise Creek* by the lines you see on the photo. Blue = Don. Red = Drew. Green=descent. Wanted to climb the obvious gully in the middle but snow was soft. Left car 5 AM. Base of face c. 7 AM. Don headed left up a 45 degree gully (out of pic) and up to NE ridge. I went to base of gully then bailed onto rock on right and up N spur (3rd class loose). We met at top of N spur and did a crux traverse along narrow, corniced upper NE ridge to just below summit where we avoided a steep step by traversing on N face as shown. Great views from up top Descended green line down N face. 500m of 45 degree snow downclimbing. Good for face in kicking steps. Got to hidden lake then down marked snow ramp back to base of face. Back out to car at 5PM and off to Mugs and Jugs for Don sez both these routes are FRA's * You can look on your ice map from Lyle if you have it.

Andy Look out for the last two pitches of Wall of Attrition (from where everyone stops, to Bellygood) If you dont like a hold You can just throw it over your shoulder And see what kind of impact it makes on your belayer!!!

How did Trask let this line pass by?

penguin down is COMPLETELY waterproof but you can still get the bag with a Gore Tex Dryloft shell if you are a gear geek

"How is American beer like sex in a canoe?"

the 10b var. finish out left on the UE is pretty easy, I thought, no need to A0 then

you are doing FA on sweet granite in Renton or on trask's ass, but that wouldn't be a FA

BigBro?

Single Pusher

yup

i piss on you all from a great height cause i am off to make a first ascent in t minus one hour and you are stuck at school/work suck it beeeeyotches

king of

There is a photo in Beckey (p 42) that shows that whole side of the mountain I only see one ridge. Unless you think the S ridge is the W ridge?

you are smoking crack!! i bet DFA is on a sending spree

feed the growth hormone and roids and they will start predating slow moving hikers thus solving overpopulation of the alpine basin

angels crest - i'd only say about 3 pitches are 10a (angel crack, the #4 moving up the corner and out right, and the second-last), plus the bolted 10b and then the 10b var to the 5.8 whaleback which is where you can pass all the slow parties. but make no mistake, its easier to do squamish buttress than angels crest, nowhere near as sustained and the crux is short, super well protected, and you can french free it easily. also usually done much faster, like 4 hrs vs 7 for angels crest doing linkup of both in a day is good practice for long alpine routes!

Admit it, you are getting aroused by the thought of those plucked penguins. NAKED under their feathers! Naked!

The bouldering,m hmm well look for rocks at the base of the cliff or buy the new guidebook (5 days old!) with 1800 problems detailed. As for classics: Calculus Crack-Apron St Vitus Dance-Apron Rock on to Squamish Buttress -Sth Gully The Ultimate Everything -Sth Gully Arrowroute-Base of Grand The Zip - Smoke Bluffs Centerfold - Papoose Mushroom-Papoose Lost Horizon - Seal Cove High Mountain Woody-Upper Malemute Worlds Toughest Milkman-Murrin Star Chek - Cheakamus Canyon Gorge Seasoned in the Sun - Grandwall Base Birds of Prey - The Squaw Klahanie Crack and other cracks nearby - Shannon Falls Orphan - Murrin Park The Reacharound - Murrin Fist - Murrin Octopus Garden In The Shade - Smoke Bluffs Cold Comfort - Bluffs Clandestine Affair - Bluffs