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Everything posted by Dru
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I didn't come up with it first. I just posted a picture of the same from a different angle. This bolted crack represents the extreme case, about which few would disagree. I doubt even DFA would defend this particular instance, although his attitude would lead some to believe that his position to be all cracks are fair game. It's in the Owens River Gorge...that crack was probably bolted by Peter Croft.
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How can they call it a boulder start if you don't have to sit down to do the first move?
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The start of the Bale Kramar is the hardest moves on the whole route IMHO "5.9+" Seems like there is a 5.10b in the Gorge (Hand Job?) with a pretty bouldery start...Mikey had to aid through I've seen lots of parties fall off first few moves of Edible Panties ... I did it myself once while soloing
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[TR] Lillooet- IcyBC/Syncrhotron+Synchronicity 12/12/2005
Dru replied to HyperPlanesDrifter's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
I heard that someone climbed full Synchro on Saturday but they took a different finish than you. -
Its not unprotected - you can put some nuts in.
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Protect this with pins!
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Bring em on! I have a big crashpad. Seriously though, with stick clips and other trickery, is there really a boulder start left? Why should it be reflected in the grade of the route? I mean if you have a 1 move V2 off the ground and then a 5.7 crack above is it more accurate to call it 11a or 5.7 with a boulder start.
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OMG LOL u r teh l33t OMG th4t is rad LOLX0r 1!!11
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Climb: Fraser Canyon & Coquihalla-After The Gold Rush/ Thinking Outside the Box Date of Climb: 12/11/2005 Trip Report: Saturday: Mer and I drove up the canyon to look for ice. Under The Big Top looked to be in. The unclimbed drip out of the cave above the highway, north of Hells Gate, looked to be in (who's gonna bolt it?) The inaccessible unclimbed ice on the wrong side of the river looked to be in. Pretty much everything else had a big open hole in it with water spitting out. We ended up driving all the way to Goldpan and climbing After The Gold Rush Unclimbed ice streaks way up on Ogilvie Peak. Been looking for ice here for years and this is the first time I have seen anything form. Mer sets out on ATGR pitch 2. We slogged up a couple of steep slopes to look at ice but found nothing else yet worth climbing. Sunday - all partners had bailed or gone home sick or stayed home sick. I decided to go check out some ice near Box Canyon. There was a lot more ice in the Jarvis Bluffs area, than there was last weekend. But it was warm, and looked like it was starting to melt out. I drove up to Box Canyon. The big ice streak on Yak was visibly dripping. Hiked south 600m from Box Canyon to this thing Steve had seen in an avalanche path. Normally would be scary but this year there is no avvy hazard yet. Anonymous climber The route. After standing around at the base waffling about scary loking thin spots I decided to climb it anyways. It turned out to be 75m of WI2 with some fun open water spots to avoid to right below the top. The final cone was really open and spewing water. I tried to climb up the side on chandelier ice but couldn't get any sticks to hold even after swinging at the same spot for 2 minutes straight and making a body-sized crater in the ice. So I traversed off to the side a bit and bouldered out up a 4m high, M4-ish offwidth with cedar roots and icicles in the back There are some neat looking mixed lines up the central part of this flow where the water ice is confined to the left. Maybe M5? Bring finger sized nuts and cams and probably some pins. "Thinking Outside The Box" 75m WI2 M4 Gear Notes: Tools and screws and poons Approach Notes: Short approaches from major highways
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Well shit, they must have moved it! If they have a snow farm, does that mean you can get a WWOOF job as an organic snow farmer?
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...steep limestone sport climbs within 1 hour drive of Bellingham? check ...covert webcams monitoring popular crosscountry routes across the border? I heard the INS installed them... ...lost bales of marijuana dropped from a drug plane near Cathedral Peak? check ... Cascades wolverines? I've seen one unclimbed 500m ice routes less than 1 hour walk from the car? CHECK
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DFA, that's so true. Are you spying on me? Windowlicker!
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Good rock in WA to practice sport leading on?
Dru replied to frontrangeclimber's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
1) Find bolted route. 2) Climb said bolted route, clipping quickdraws into bolts along the way. 3) repeat steps 1 and 2 That'll be 50 bucks. Thank you! I forgot to mention step 2.5 (very important) clip rope into quickdraw after you clip quickdraw into bolt! and don't z-clip. -
...Wanaka is south of Queenstown, but...yeah.
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Queenstown on South Island Mt Ruapehu on North Island
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Maybe your helmet would still be purple if you hadn't spent so much time polishing it.
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tusks are aid
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Yeh almost as sad as some dude dressed up with a mirror helmet and a Cobra emblem that looks like a vagina!
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That Babar dude has done some way-rad soloing. And he offered 10 grand for anyone who could keep up with him and crank what he cranked.