Dru

Ya the whole cliff would be called "Heathcliffe" I bet

i am higher on the "make me a modertor next" list than distel too

i think you mean the waddington range guide cause there is no guide in print for anything else

i wouldn't even take an experienced climber to that vantage pile let alone a newbie

i am interested if there is anyone who DOESNT think shriek and loose lady are sandbags. although i would support leaving them in the guidebook at 4+ anyways sort of like index 11d

un ban daisy

the recent logging in slesse creek has all been to the north of the current parking area. i think this is just a rumor?

sean easton said the line to the right begins as powder snow over blank granite. feel like a bolt ladder?

some cracks taste better than others

I have the Boreal Ace foot

i want to know how they are gonna prove they are female. obviously seattle based ones could show up at pub club to get "approved" but other than that? are they gonna have to send you live webcam feed (pictures can be faked or obtained in many places)? I think its gonna be pretty near impossible to verify in many cases. I volunteer to look at photos though if you ask for photos for verification.

could female avatars post? would a new person registering with a female name automatically get posting privileges or would you ask for a sex test first

what rat said

I dunno about old climbs being graded easy and new climbs being hard, because Shriek of the Sheep was graded 4+ way back in the 80's. The first time I did Cherry Ice it was WI2 for sure then later on I've seen it as a 3. Bob I have never seen such wet, rotten shitty ice in the Rockies as I have climbed out here. But then I guess I haven't climbed in the Rockies in March either. All I'm saying there are few routes in the Rockies at sea level, that come in 8 pitches high and then are totally gone 4 days later, like the Mousetrap does....

Yup - sorry OW, that thing has brakes and shocks. Would it help to tell you I know Kris? I'm a 5.0 unicyclist though, despite his best efforts

look out for the pacific tree octopus when tree climbing!

basically the point is, i don't know anyone who ever used locking gates on screamers EVEN THOUGH at one time it was recommended. Just like I don't know of many people who make sure the bottom clip on the sport route they are trying, has locking biners on it. These technical gear warnings always crack me up. See latest R&I where some guide is recommending not tying off the cordelette but instead using a sliding-X set up.

Cat Burglar at Index? well wha d'you know? They moved it! Seriously - I have never climbed at Index. I have never been through Index when it wasn't raining. Ok maybe once at midnight driving home from L'worth

No Shit. I said this because it would be difficult, but not impossible. Provisions like I suggested where the Canadian authorities could deny access to their transmission infrastructure (essentially by disconnecting/shutting it off from the Canadian substation where it ties in) if the environmental constraints were not achieved would be possible. And exactly why is that? If the tie-in is on Canadian soil, and permit conditions provide for it as a consequence of not meeting enviro standards, there is no way the US could stop them from removing/shutting off the connection. Cruise missles? Don't be a melodrama queen! You mean like the way we can turn off the taps on the Columbia Dams? Hey Iain how would you like to be able to walk across to Washington

"Kris, you gotta take that brake out from under the seat and put it on a cable you can hold in your hand. Because you are driving around grabbing your crotch all day!"

it can be easier than professors and still be wi4. it can be easier than carlsberg column and still be 5. routes can be easier or harder than a representative route of the grade without being up or down a grade. like when i did night n gale it was 3+ the way we did it but I have heard and seen pix of it being 4+ under different conditions. i would say it is about a 4 most of the time, just guessing. as for + and + they are really only used in the Rockies for 4, 5 and 6, 3+ is a local usage and there are some 3+ that would be 4 in the Rockies and some that would be 3's. I have only done Moonlight in Kananaskis once it is given WI4 and I thought it was very similar to Oreegon Jack WI3+ out here. Then again Panther Falls and Bridal Veil at the Cineplex area are both given a 3 in Jo-jo's guide and I thought they were both harder than Moonlight when I did them, it could have just been conditions. But I guess my point is you can't just use one route as a grade standard you need several for each grade and the boundaries blend into each other. Also Bob you seem to be using steepness as the only criterion whereas perhaps ice quality comes into it too.... out here the ice is often way worse than it gets in the Rockies and a climb like Shannon Falls is usually climbed under conditions rarely if ever seen or climbed in the Rockies.

1) never trust a gear manufacturer to do anything other than tell you you need the gear they make 2) biner = carabiner binner = guy who goes thru the garbage for cans and bottles

well you have to distinguish between a route that is 200m long and has 10m of WI4, and a route that is 200m long and has 200m of WI4..... I think Synchro is harder than Cascade fer sure. Cascade only has about 60m of WI3, Synchro has like 190m of WI3 and 10m of WI4. The route right of 3rd pitch Icy BC was already discussed in this forum as to grade and conditions. I say - it's all whatever. There's no point in arguing if a climb is 4 or 4+ when it can form up anywhere from 3 to 5 depending on the season, thickness of ice, quality of ice and degree of traffic. Louise Falls is a good one cause it can be full 5 sometimes and easy 4 at others. I know of local climbs that have gone from 4+ to 3 in as little as a week as they filled out. the grades on Lyle's ice map seemed accurate to me.

i think my 3rd lead ever was Cat Burglar at Index and my newbie belayer could not second the 2nd pitch in her running shoes resulting in me having to borrow a second climber from a nearby climbing party in order to get the gear out which considering they actually owned half the rack I was using, is understandable.