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Dru

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Everything posted by Dru

  1. um its in quebec where they do know how to climb cracks and ya it is really supposedly a 5.14 crack climb but no one has successfully pinkpointed yet i think last i heard the rating was 13c A0
  2. so the boulderfield we were working near was just so damn impressive i had to climb something this tower seemed like a "real summit" and had cracks..... the moral of the story is that what i did was not WCB approved. caulk boots suck for granite climbing. in fact i ended up downclimbing barefoot. i don't know how to rate this ascent so i won't. just like chris sharma the cracks are some of the nicest granite i have ever touched though.
  3. i think you should ban marylou you should just chat and give up trying to figure out who everyone is.
  4. Dru

    Free Martha!

    insider trading laws. she's probably guilty of genocide too.
  5. not his character disappeared - his taling head disappeared. i certainly thought he was getting petty over it as the story focusses way more on joe than on him in the last half, but he did have a point in that his character is in much less of the second part, and his talking head is basically gone. moral of story: don't piss off director or you will be cut out!
  6. i expect we will se similar arguments in rock climbing when gecko tape becomes commercially available
  7. monkey fist can be used as a throw-ball to get line across, like tossing line to gaper in monkey mouth to tyrolean to monkey-face
  8. charlet is gonna be so sad when no one buys the dart now
  9. Dru

    nice

    this is spray, i just moved it to spray where it belongs
  10. Dru

    nice

    what was deleted about mormons? what i said is that the scouts were probably happier to be awakened by a probe in the face from an avvy probe than a probe in the from the scoutmaster
  11. Dru

    nice

    why don't you go back to your job of protecting the dignity of the Scouting movement
  12. Dru

    nice

    it was too cold to sweat much (photo from last May, there was no snow) only scar is on my rope sheath from the rappel stupid scree gully date stamps are for photobumblies only.
  13. i don't believe a 500 foot cornice is possible, more like a little cornice formed and fell and 500 ft of utah pow avalanched on them from the slope above.
  14. Dru

    nice

    see pic
  15. read all about it! Spurs make mixed climbing too easy
  16. look out, here comes a coil!
  17. Dru

    Free Martha!

    she cheated her way to wealth, and she finally got caught and is gonna pay 4 it
  18. Dru

    Entertaining avatars

    as opposed to "Blake"?
  19. So I have now talked to Max de Jong and I should make some corrections to the above description. 1) the pitch lengths are all 50m station to station. by this criterion Shaun and I got part way up p6 of the 22 pitch climb 2) Scott Flavelle had tried this first and fell off p6 on a pin and bent it. The line then passed to Carlo and Max. Scott, Carlo and Max were never all up there as a party of 3. 3) I had not realized before just how impressive this ascent was. I had believed or misunderstood that it was a mostly sieged aid line. In fact there are: only 7 moves of aid on the whole line; and, only 17 lead bolts (aside from belays) on the climb. During Max's solo attempts on and completion of the route there were no fixed ropes. He was up there free climbing on clove hitch belays and equalizing knifeblades so as to avoid drilling. The 2 attenmpts that failed before the successful push were due to weather (full tale of epic rappel descent without shell in snowstorm, frostbite etc will not be garbled by second hand telling here). The climb does apparently improve a bit above where Shaun and I bailed but is definitely a basalt dyke with loose blocks the whole way up. There is a lot of delicate stemming and so on higher up and knowing what holds to not trust is a required skill. The whole thing sounds pretty impressive and gnarly. As for the Unfinished Symphony reference its a bit of a red herring with regards to this route anyways. Thanks for the beta Max
  20. Dru

    Free Martha!

    I don't think she's "free". More like "high maintenance".
  21. Dru

    My tale of woe

    get someone else's non working power drill smash with sledge hammer and insert in wreckage
  22. so not only is beckey the lifetime achievment award in the new ish of climbing golden pitons..... but the aschenbrenner is mentioned in the tami knight cartoon!!!! whoa synchronicity
  23. Dru

    Classic

    shit i've done that with bouldering mats for chimneys
  24. Dru

    nice

    so it was nice enough to rock climb outside today info bulletin for those of you who didn't if i had remembered my camera i would torment you with pretty pictures too
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