Dru

sense of smell.

the rock is wet and the ice has melted, it IS time to ski !

the length of the part of the screw with threads is just as long on a 13cm, as on a 22cm, and it is the threads that hold you in good ice. in really shitty sun-rotted ice a long screw may be a bit better due to the picket effect. a 10cm does have a few less threads than a 13cm so it may be marginally weaker but i have seen a vid of someone whipping on a 10cm and it held so they are probably good. i have never fallen leading ice so i just assume they hold.

here's why

snoboy's point is the real important one having both gates facing the same was is debatable i like to have some-one way and some the other (gates facing in opposite directions) you never know what the situation is where you will be clipping. as matt noted in a corner it is good to have both gates facing out but there are situiations where you might want the top and bottom gates facing in opposite directions. if the climb traverses at all, you want the bottom gate facing away from the direction of the traverse. if its straight up it doesnt much matter see HOW TO SPORT CLIMB book for more info.

7b means hard v12 or harder move crux HXS is equivalent to "E7 or harder".

eh you know i used to have fitovers and a hat like that...

triple-roped gritstone bouldering movie many strong climbers had previously failed to even TR this successfully

quality pagetop

it scary how the climber changes shirt color and hair length in the middle of that sequence

are you gonna rag on her for consorting with the enemy by climbing in communist Fidelland, Greg???

tie offs suck, and fail at low strengths stubbies are fast to place and just as strong as full length screws i have placed a 22cm like once a year recently. but i place 10cm and 13cm on like every route

try a mullhawk

the problem was she didnt have pilling. she had "snags"

wazzup with the armpit bandana anyways? is it his gang colors?

i wouldve bought a bunch of pairs of the boreal vectors myself. was my fave shoe ever. the moccasym is a pale imitation

its soooooo passe to call them hallucinogens people. real 'heads use the term entheogens

beware the cave dwelling snafflitus troglodytes

4 of the 7 have shorts BUT NO POLYPRO!!!! the DANGER! the DARING!

You don't know me very well, do you? A dying person deserves comfort in their last days. Why should relief be denied them? if the dying can trip out and see colours legally why not the rest of us

its mostly damned easy, there is one "5.7" slab move right above a good gear placement and then the final pitch to the summit has a short crack section and chimney (good hex placements BTW). and you rappel off. there are lots of other good summits nearby if you would rather not rap off for first time climbers. but if you had climbed, say, Martian Diagonal at Peshastin as a warm up there should be no trouble.

1) seam grip will stick to just about anything. try roughening up the shell first with sandpaper 2) get a soldering iron and melt the pebax slightly around the hole so it fills in. DANGER 1) plastic fumes, 2) you will void your warranty.

1)restore DWR - wash a lotm, dry it hot, iron and ReviveX 2)seam seal any holes or places where seamtape has come adrift 1) should help water repellency. 2) should cover any leakage or waterproofness issues. Beyond that yer fucked. BUT, a non waterproof Gore shewll can be a useful piece. I have an old Arcteryx tester jacet I picked up for $20 when I worked there. It has no DWR anymore and even Revivex restores it for like 5 min. It had a hole I patched with seamsealer. Its a total beater shell and I use it for iceclimbing and wet alpine chimneys in the rain secure in the knowledge I'd probably get damp anyways no matter what I wear and this way I don't trash a nice new jacket doing it.

If you really want to introduce newbies to mountaineering why would you take them up a godawful volcano slog? I know that volcano slog bagging is the focus of all Washington mountaineering and that that might explain why people hiking up to Snow Lakes in July are seen carrying a dozen wands but if you want the newbies to actually enjoy themselves I would suggest you focus on some nice exposed ridges with some 4th-low 5th class roped climbing on quality rock and good views. Like maybe the South Arete of SEWS, the WR of Prussik Peak, something on Ingalls, the WR of N Twin Sister or similar.