Dru

chuck IMHO Raven's Castle is not worth hiking up the backside trail to get to. its Ok to finish off the day after climbing the Squamish buttress by climbing there. remember you can and should climb Talking Crack preferably free solo and barefoot or in flip flops to wow the summit crowds

a good crag for beginners that is not the smoke bluffs is the Sugarloaf area at Murrin Park. there are several 5.4's, a 5.6, two 5.7s, two 5.8s and a 5.9 all within about 50m. if you can find it withhout top ropers in situ leading all of these back to back will give you just as much climbing as a short apron multipitch and probably more gear placements.

ssshhhhh don't tell anyone about that super nice couloir on the north side leading up to the "u-shaped notch" shhhh

I don't remember aliens abducting me at all

I suspected it all along, and this proves it. Republicans are indeed in league with the Prince of Darkness himself, SATAN! - a s s m * n k e y not to in any way diminish the extreme seriousness of the evil of child abuse, but the vast majority of the "satanic ritual abuse" cases reported in the 1980's, based on "recovered memories", have turned out to be complete fabrications. the 'investigators' were generally enthusiastic Christian fundamentalists with minimal training in investigative procedures. One prosecution in Saskatchewan recently resulted in a full apology and payout to the family subjected to the smear campaign of the 80's and the disciplining of the police officers involved in the case who should have known better than to believe the exceedingly bizarre allegations of black magic and satanic rites. These "recovered memory" cases of satanic abuse are about as accurate as the similarly "recovered" memories of past lives or alien abductions.

south arete is harder than calculus and also wide to start off with. the wide section on calc is only 5.6 and low angle with solid foot jams the whole way. you just need your hands for balance.

there is a tufa route in Britain called "Tufa King Hard"

COTTON KILLS!!!! OMFG WHERE WAS YOUR POLYPRO

there used to be a route at skaha with glue in ring bolts and during the 1994 forest fire the glue melted and the bolts fell out of the holes

i find that i end up flossing both before and after. before for good bedroom hygiene and after to get the curly ones out from between my teeth.

i was told within the last few weeks that it is easy and convenient to traverse to the base of HPD from the last main ledge on the Crest. then you just rap back down and traverse over to Angels Crest to top out.

even if water percolates thru the rock, if the bolt is completel;y encased in glue it shouldn't matter. in NZ (where I placed my one glue in, beautiful Mount Horrible) they said you should use enough glue that it actually not only fills the hole around the bolt, but actually the glue should also penetrate and permeate the adjacent permeable rock.

give a man a rope and all of a sudden he thinks he's a sport climber forecast for wednesday is for Thunderstorms.

first sport lead. your best bet is a little crag called jug slab in the smoke bluffs near the parking lot with four short well bolted routes in the 5.6-5.8 range. there are few multipitch trad 5.6's around but you could climb banana peel (one move 5.7) or calculus crack (one move 5.8) or diedre (several pitches well protected 5.7) if you want to do some trad multipitches. of the three diedre is immensely busy and slightly polished, calculus has a 2 pitch tree/bush approach and one gear anchor to build, and banana peel does have one runout pitch. none of them are even remotely difficult though.

I don't like glue ins for hard rock but for soft rock with the proper system they can be hella strong. I am totally more experienced than Jason because I have placed ONE!!! It seems like if you use enough glue it doesnt matter if water can get into the hole or not because the bolt is completely encapsulated in glue so the water cannot penetrate the glue to rust the bolt.... at least as i understand it if there are air pockets in there with your glue and bolt in the hole you have a way bigger problem than rust namely your bolt is weakly adhered and could fail anyhow.

i climbed out of bed this morning. it was a tough project but i managed the redpoint on my 10th go

ok jason, but using your system don't you have to put the prusik or autoblock on above the device which is already extended above your harness? it sounds like a little bit of a clusterfuck. i mean i have climbed 20m up a slab in the past just pulling rope thru my atc because i was too lazy to walk back around to the top...its not like it is all that hard. i can see on vertical walls how the ratchet would help but it also seems kinda tricky to set up if you are already dangling in space and with a prussik and rap device both a few feet above your waist sounds even worse.

sufferin' schnitzels!

the snaffle? oh my god!

DIE!!!!!

kill the hold! kill the hold! nothing teaches hold preservation like free soloing

run for cover 13b 40m you might need 2 ropes to get down

just about anybody in the world can climb pleasant pheasant...

even furries got otter fetishes

look in the guidebook young one. a lot of routes are actually long. you will want to look into Rocket 12d 18m, Animal Instinct 13a 16m, Caress of Steel 13b 10m, Alistairs Route 12d 15m, Youth Gone Wild 12b 12m; Not to mention Hand Over Fist 12b 10m at the Lakeside-In-the-Woods And while at Murrin check out Wabbit Handcuffs 12c 7m "a very bouldery crux" hah! Betazoid 12b 10m is also a boulder problemish thing as its easier version Beat The Clock 11d 10m. Why even I have dogged my way to glory on Beat the clock and I can say with honesty the crux is a bitch!