Climb: Cathedral Park TR-New Route on Matriarch, M to G traverse and Deacon
Date of Climb: 7/2/2004
Trip Report:
I went on a 3 day alpine rock trip to Cathedral Park with Mer.
Day 1: hiked in via Wall Creek. 4.5 hours to the world's nicest basecamp in a forested meadow with running water, boulders and snafflehounds.
Weather was a bit iffy so we went bouldering in the meadows for the rest of the afternoon and did some scoping for the next day.
I made dinner and burned the soup
Day 2 (Saturday): Hiked up to the SW face of Matriarch and climbed a new 4-pitch 5.8+ line to the left of the Lady Fanny of Omaha route. We soloed the first 25m pitch of 4th class/5.4 ish rock. Mer led a 40m pitch of 5.7 in her hiking boots (mostly easy with two 5.7 moves at the end of the pitch). I led a 35m pitch of 5.8 and Mer finished off with a 30m 5.8+ pitch which put us on the summit ridge right below Matriarch's summit block. Then we unroped and scrambled along the Matriarch to Grimface traverse. We used ropes only for the rappels, the 15 foot bolt ladder on Macabre, and for one silly section where a rap rope got stuck and I had to rap into a gloomy chasm and penji onto a chockstone and then prussik out
The views were cool from Yak Peak area, to Silver Star and the Wine Spires, to the Okanagan.
Did some more scoping of lines on the unclimbed true south face of Grimface during the descent. Bring 5.12 skills, a garden trowel and dipping sauce for granite taco chips if planning an ascent here.
Mer made dinner and we had a contest to see if either of us could finish our portions of tortellini. I think the snafflehounds won because they were fed the leftovers.
Day 3 (Sunday): The weather was kind of iffy. Grimface socked in in the clouds. After an 8 AM alpine start to breakfast we hid back in the tent away from clouds of mosquitoes and water. Meanwhile a snaffle finished Mer's half-eaten granola breakfast.
Around 10:30 it started to clear so we hiked up to the Deacon-Denture col and saw a very large and imposing goat. Then we 2nd-classed it up granite ridge to Deacon summit and examined all the granite in the vicinity including the Doorish 5.11 on the Deacon's east face. Lotsa unclimbed rock here too. Shhh don't tell ANYONE!!!
Hiked back down to camp - packed up - hiked out to car - swim in the river BRRR shrinkage - drove into Keremeos to eat cherries!
Home before midnight
Pics to follow.
GEAR NOTES hexes, nuts, cams, ropes, slings and trekking poles
APPROACH NOTES the trail is a swamp! prepare for wading through mud.