Dru

MEC carries dead bird? Aside from the 1990's-era-technology harnesses and a couple of packs that is? What planet is your MEC on - Bizarro World? Dont you know dead bird is a clothing line

the rigid loop effect can still break a belay master if the fig-8, rather than the biner, crossloads

i uised to use a fig-8 small end as a sticht plate, then i actually bought a real belay device. "how long have these devices been around?" selkirk asks - "long enough to kill people" i mean we use rubber tires nowadays instead of wooden wheels, combustion engines instead of horses,and so on. climbing with a fig-8 nowadays is like climbing with EB's and a swami belt. get with the program.

10 pitches on first ascent = usually climbed in 5 or 6 pitches today. there is a recent TR from Dr Hook here: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/369071/page/2/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1 If you climbed more or less where the line in the guidebook photo goes you were on route. otherwise there are 2routes to the right of the Serl/McNab, 5.10+ and 5.11 put up by Craig McGee

any device can cross-load a biner but the difference between the Fig-8, and I believe the Omega SBG too, and other devices is the lateral crossload from a rigid loop. this can break your biner in the manner of a bottle opener popping the top off a beer bottle. but figure-8s suck anyways. josepH what part of Europe do the Euros use the small end to belay with? most of them I have seen use the fig-8 in "descender" mode to belay. while chainsmokinmg. SKETCHSKI!

Once you get across the Schrund and/or missing section at the bottom (maybe a bit of rock up to 2 pitches and 5.7) it looks pretty cruiser. It probably has less snow and more ice than in this photo (August 1 2000): If you are iun the area the other options are the Owls north couloirs, there is a relatively easy snow/ice line up to the Owls/Weart col and just to its left the WI4/mixed line Guy E. soloed to the W shoulder of the Owls may or may not be in - you can see this line on p. 57 of alpine select as a discontinuous line right of the right hand owl couloir going up to the sunlit snow arete between weart and owls.

Speculation --> it probably looks about like the photo in Kevin's guidebook which was taken during a dry September. Its probably ice right now, not water ice but icy neve.

I go sockless all the time now. After the first 6 months the callusses get so thick as to renderr socks superfluous anyhow. Just be prepared for 6 months of foot funk and blisters till your calluses thicken properly

"let's collectivize the mounties scrambling course!"

its the flying mescalito!

i saw a snake chimneying up a finger crack once and i found a dead tarantula in a water-worn pocket at a "secret" granite area near las vegas

The ants are my friends, they're blowin in the wind.

meanwhile in Canada Please pay us 25 cents a month so we can tap your phone and Internet!

now when the beta is #4 camalot you will have to specify - OLD or NEW

whatever happened to

They are very good at doing what they do!

sean is writing a new edition

http://www.uiaa.ch/web.test/visual/Safety/downloads/Karabiner%20breakings%20with%20figure8.pdf Newbies or sketchy old 80s euro sportclimbers who use a figure-8 to belay and rap with might want to read this if you haven't already.

badger badger badger badger!

Save the Dolphins!

I heard somewhere about a "30 story high apartment building" sized rock falling off Oubliette in the Tonquin. I hope they like bouldering.

Hmm yes, consulted with members of the military government there. I'm sure they would honestly tell you IF they weren't doing a good job!

I'm certain spending a couple of days in Burma on your way to Thailand or spending a few weeks in Pakistan are all the qualifications you need to proclaim the wonders of rule by military junta there.

this thread is being brought back from the grave for the second time. If googlebots could post there would be over a thousand replies to it by now