Dru

The fact still remains that Yuji onsights French 14b sporto routes but can't onsight ANY of the 5.13 trad routes on El Cap. So which is harder

banned users don't show up in the USER LIST and there he is sitting at #3 spot

Nothin' like confirming yourself as a l0zer on multiple boards by attacking the accomplishments of not one, but several climbers and skiiers better than you

photo turned upside down too.

But if you bring a tap you ARE allowed to pump your own beer at Grasslands anyway

Mattp: class 4 climbing is generally considered to be climbable without using pro. A climber considering using pro, and or a self belay, on class 4 climbs should consider dropping the commitment level instead. Why? Because they aren't confident in climbing at the necessary level. The question was not "How should I self belay on 5.12" or "Significant climbs I have done without a rope". Please stay on topic.

You can even see Judge Howay and Robie Reid from Bellingham if you know where to look.

the lightest alpine rack I've ever carried was my ballz

Hey y'all - it's just Class 4. If you feel the need to protect yourself perhaps you should have chosen a 3rd class route instead.

Sheep: ribbed for your pleasure.

I heard Lancegranite married a svelte Sasquatch

Well, Dru, I'm looking at it this way... It's a multipitch area, with an average of say... 3 to 5 pitches per climb. Let's go low and say it's 3 pitches for every climb we do. I'll probably get in 4 or 5 climbs a day, cuz I'm fat and I'm taking a buddy who's never done multis before. So on the low end, that's around 12 rap stations per day if all goes according to plan. We'll be there for about 4 or 5 days. Let's say we get bored after 4 days. That makes for somewhere around 50 rap stations to be replaced while we're there. With two rap rings (redundancy) per station, that's around 100 rings. At your estimated prices, there's a differential of about $0.75CAN/ring. So that's 100 rings * $0.75CAN/ring * ~$0.70US/$1.00CAN = $50US potential price difference. To me, that is some serious coin of my own that I'll be dropping. As I said above, "Weight won't be an issue. Money is." Thanks for your comment, though. 4 3 pitch routes a day? At this time of year? Are you fast and slumming, or slow and optimistic? Anyways I like it when people use double rings or quicklinks. It means I can booty a quicklink on every rap! Have you considered that in these low-traffic areas you are visiting, probably quite a lot of the anchors won't need replacing? Or the webbing will need it but not the rings? But go ahead, buy 50 quicklinks. Or even 150 single chain links. Dont let me stop you.

One day "I thought it was a chicken neck" will be remembered fondly along with "No, it's just ice cream" as non sequiters of distinction.

you "think"? he's a useless chestbeater that can't spell or punctuate properly.

Rockcentrics. Regular hexes are 1970's tech even on wire.

But isn't the money diff between a rap ring ($2 CDN at MEC) and a non-stainless quick link (about $1.25 CDN at hardware store) kind of small potatoes unless you are retrofitting a whole crags worth of hundreds of rap stations?

Maybe I can set up a station at the bridge and sell numbers for Supa Slab and Bunny Farce. "Yes ma'am you are #132, your projected wait for Bunny Farce is 3 hours 27 minutes!"

quicklinks may be cheaper, but rap rings weight 1/4 as much

Oooh a "reserved route". Im going to get there 5 minutes earlier and gaper all over it with fixed ropes and portaledges and stuff.

I was reading this old Climbing mag and here I find someone named Robert Rogoz(belayer) describing Elie Chevieux "near onsight" of Badman: "He was skipping clips, falling, grabbing draws, and it was totally rad when he sent it!"

Thrill threatened to hit someone with #11 hex. Thats a threat of physical violence. Ban him! Like Cpt. Caveman was banned! Just because you got up at 3 in the AM does not mean you can't be passed by fast party got up at noon.

but from where we parked, it was more like 3 km... however it was the last 1 km that took 3 of the 3.5 hours

This site is all about pagetops right CG33 - if you don't drink can I drink your share of the TG keg Mine --> And yours -->

Climb: Robertson Peak-2nd ascent, via N glacier Date of Climb: 10/3/2004 Trip Report: Well I managed to re-injure my shoulder again last weekend. Rope Up was out unless I wanted to belay all weekend. I could think of more fun, especially with good weather. So Don, Steve and I planned a trip off to attempt Robertson, highest and most remote of the Chehalis summits, with only one recorded ascent. Robertson is 7400'/2250m. It lies SW of the head of Harrison Lake in an obscure and rarely visited area. There are many other nice peaks around. Most saw their only ascents to date when Doug Kasian went on a peak bagging rampage in the late 1970's. We drove up Saturday morning. After some exploratory poking around up various road spurs we picked a line and started hiking. Hey, look! Chehalis bush! It took us about 3.5 hrs to hike 3km of which the last km took 3 hours. The final bit consisted of steep rock with blueberry bushes up which we vege-aided. But there was a nice lake and granite basecamp above. Next day we set off for the summit. Up the NE ridge we went. Steve liked the rock. Jordop had been invited along but declined because he thought the rock was going to be bad. Can't win em all I guess. After climbing to this 2011m gendarme the ridge ahead looked steep and time consuming and would have required a rappel so we bailed to the N glacier instead. Some easy glacial ice and a snow walk got us up to the summit. Approaching col between the summits. On the summit there was no cairn. Not unexpected because the first and only previous ascent was in Feb of 78 and the summit was probably buried under snow. But the lack of any cairn was still welcome because we figured that meant we had made the second ascent. Certainly another ascent has never been recorded in the literature or online. The views were pretty good. This is looking into the chehalis. Trio Spires at left and Clarke group towards the right. Eventually it was time to go back to camp. This is looking down at camp. We were set up by the lower lake. Pk. 2011m is the prominent gendarme at right. We left the summit at 2:30 and got back to camp near 5. After a quick brew up we packed and took off. We found a route down that traded slide alder and devils club for overhanging tree downclimbing, krummholz swimming, gully downclimbing and a 20m vertical rappel. We got into open forest near dark and didnt have to put headlamps on until fairly late in the game, crossing the creek and beginning the final slide alder push to the road. Back to the car at 8:30. Sasquatch Inn at 11:30. Home at midnight. Too tired to drink a beer then. That means I can drink two now! This was awesome trip. Thanks Steve and Don. Gear Notes: rope, crampons, ice axe, 4th class skillz Approach Notes: Tipella Creek road. Slide alder. Devils club. Blueberry bushes. Etc.

wow KNOBe...you are truly a knight in shining armor...an example of chivalry in this age of chauvinism... you prolly beat the chix off w/ a stick since they are coming on so thick??? real man doesn't need to usea stick to beat the chix off. he uses ONE FINGER