Dru

You should check out the Pup Buttress on Harvey that is worth doing too. And short access you can be climbing 4 pitches up on that thing in the time it takes you to drive to Habrich!! The Nose on Habrich (see regular Squamish guide) is well worth doing despite McLane's comments, too. And its 5.9 not 10b.

with all that expensive pro like 2x4s and ice tools wouldn't a huge aluminum extension ladder be cheaper??

one thing i have found about titanium screws is that when it is cold ice really sticks to them. it is almost impossible to get the ice cores out of the screws without using a lighter if the temp is below -5 c. the only way I have found to do it is to spray them with wd-40 before every day of use. also cause they are sticky they are harder to turn in the ice than steel. they are great light weight pieces for summer glacier mountaineering where its warm though.

Clog Cam is identical to an older style WC Friend pre-color coding, pre-cnc machined cams, pre-plastic sheath around the shaft, etc. you get whatcha pay for. still I'd rather have clog cams than rock empire robots.

I agree with Stefan, too much to do to do the same route over and over. that said I have repeatedly climbed a few alpine routes. the easier it is to do - the more I repeat it. definitely like to repeat the SW buttress of the s. peak of the old settler because it is the best easy climb in the world and i'm totally psyched to do it with different people just to see the big happy smiles of someone doing it for the first time. ditto the n ridge of needle peak, a great first time out on alpine rock for someone thats only cragged before. i have done it with new partners to check them out before doing something more serious.... [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 08-08-2001).]

Hey Lisa, invite the guy to a pub club meeting and get Capt. and Strickland to whale on the guy with some 2x4s for a while. that should solve your problem. sort of like the aversion therapy with pepper spray and rubber bullets they try out on garbage bears before they shoot them.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Oh yeah Forrest. Did you get the on with a ton of photos that Dru took in it? Dru is a celebrity my 15 minutes of fame is at 14:45 and rising....

When you are hiking up Nesakwatch Creek, that 6800 foot summit is the pointy one DUE SOUTH of you. IE it is the south easternmost peak in the whole cirque. This makes it the 5th or 6th summit left of the main summit of slesse. The route line is pretty obvious from the hike in. You have to approach as for S peak SE buttress and then continue traversing on slabs for another hour or two (?) to get to the base. Who knows for Descent. Expect "Culbert 5.4" to be 5.7 or 5.8. "Culbert 5.6" is consistently 5.9...Oh, it has probably never been repeated either. Thats why KM didn't include it. that or cause he didn't have a photo....

Ho dude. Heavy use of CAPITAL LETTERS!!!! If they can't spell how are they gonna use a cell phone properly? How do they know what you look like anyways?

Ok. If I am at the Fall Get Together and say No to another beer because I want to climb hard the next day you are allowed to club me!!

Carolyn Find someone else who knows pretty much nothing either and both of you push forwards slowly learning as you go along. i was much more willing to mentor when I didn't have as much experience!!!! Quite frankly i think you learn more and faster when neither one of you knows what to do because you question everything then. with a mentor you usually just accept what they do then later on you go to do it and someone asks why you are doing it that way and you don't know why!!!

the Urquhart route was put up by Max De Jong, it goes at 10a A3 22 pitches, but would go free at 10c allegedly, but right now there is a grade VI bush wack through 20 year old aldered over logging roads to get there. thats why km didnt uinclude it in alpine select. lots of ppl turning around at sight of bush and also Spuzzum Creek bridge is washed out ~10km from the peak and hard to cross river. might be better trying to go in from Cogburn creek N of the settler and cross over the Se ridge. but that side is steep!!!! like around rexford. illusions - plan on 5 hr bushwack from the valley floor to get to base of the routes. best way now is head straight up to the illusion cirque from the valley some low 5th class rock steps hidden in the trees, forget that traverse over disillusion notch that is bunk, more 20 yr old alder thickets. routes supposedly quite good though. dont think aything new has been done since 1992 or thereabouts so Beckey guide has all the beta.

I went hiking with my dad since I was about 3. then as teen agers my bro and i started scrambling harder and harder stuff once he got a car. I started off top roping with a university climbing club and they were so desperate for experienced ppl I was teaching the course the next year! but i survived somehow.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Problem with that is that I am always climbing the next morning so I never seem to make those things. Bad timing I tell you people. Plus I have not purchased my bulletproof vest yet Capt., if you can't climb with a hangover your Trad Klan message might get revoked. Real Hard Core Trad Klan dont climb UNLESS hung over. Spirits of Don Whillans, Bugs McKeith and Warren Harding invoking bad juju. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 08-03-2001).]

you dont curl kegs you lie under the tap and hold it open!!! "what are you doing under that keg?" "i am training for the CC.com Fall Get Together"

I do all my one arm exercise bicep curling pints of stout from table to mouth.

it must be just the angle of the camera will, but one of your arms looks a lot bigger than the other one, have you been doing a lot of one fisted exercise lately?

Do deaths while climbing from non-climbing causes ever make ANAM? Somehow it doesn't seem like other climbers will learn much from these type of accidents, unlike the ones that go LOST, EXCEEDED ABILITY, FORGOT TO WEAR HELMET, THOUGHT HE COULD CLIMB 5.9 ON STUART BECAUSE HE COULD CLIMB 5.9 IN THE GYM, MOUTH LARGER THAN BRAIN etc. Actually, replying to "JERRY"'s original question, I dunno about climbing but I have seen people have heart attacks while hiking and I would have to say (not even having done the route either just sprayin' ) the 'climbing' on Rainier at that point is more like hiking than climbing.... [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 08-03-2001).]

plastic jugs?

Throw in a "used" sock and they will have quite a historic package of cc.com memorabilia...

I noticed that we just got our 1100th member. Congratulations new member! You just won a dream date with your choice of a) dwayner b) donna top step. Some choice huh?

In regards to glacier travel I read the books and practiced (not on a glacier) a few times, then bumbled not really knowing what i was doing up a few glaciers. Only when I took up aid climbing did I suddenly realize what all those z-pulleys and stuff were actually FOR!!! i'd have to say aid climbing improved my glacier safety about 500%.

With shiny pants like that who needs Lycra??

Here's a pic of me: