Dru

i dont find this board negative - i find it positive. i find lack of dissenting opinions and big love ins where people are afraid to be critical, to be negative. my $0.02 CDN which is only $0.01 US.(thats why i post twice as much as anyone else )

Ask Fishstick - MEC might rent them, that would be okay for Baker but probably a hassle to pick up if you were going to Rainier. Of course you could get them at MEC and then head to the Joffre Lakes or something to try them out.... just doing my bit for Tourism BC!

quote: Originally posted by erik: sounds like we got a good old fashioned witch hunt. i mean it comes along with being 23 and invinsible. i bet we all could chill out, and beck is right we all should attend a pub club or 2, to smell each other out. "Invinsible" - when you can't be seen, you can't be hurt. (Yeah EDOG I am making fun of your spelling!!!!) When pub Club comes to Sumas or Bellingham I'll be there in my stinky best otherwise smellout will have to wait for Fall MegaFest.

Johnny, I think you misunderstand me, perhaps deliberately? There are a lot of posts on this bb that are never replied to and they are the ones that no one can answer. I can pretty much guarantee that if someone posts a question like "what is the biggest cam I need to take on the Beckey Route on Liberty Bell" they will get a quick informative answer. But if somebody posts "how big is the bergschrund on Mt. Meager right now" the post will be ignored - its gonna sit there unanswered for months and months because nobody on this board is climbing Meager. Same with the question about upcoming conditions in Lillooet, you cant answer a question like that, so its either going to be ignored or someone is going to post a smart ass answer like "Extremely wet, if Lyle spills the keg again." So where is the humility I need for that? I can be as humble as anyone - hell I has search and rescue out looking for me last weekend!!

If the next poster does a "reply with quote" on the post with the last chunk of story and then deletes the little bold ubb codes then they wont have to retype it out.

Parker, you fail English! "...led to my demise". Demise means death and the nameless protagonist is saying that he died!

If you have oily goo on your hands, hot water will get them cleaner than cold water. Bggest tip I have is if your hands are dry DO NOT USE CHALK EVER! chalk destroys skin, pure and simple.

6 pins from kb to baby angle, northwall hammer, 10 wire nuts, 12 long draws, 6 Tri cams and a full set of cams (any brand) from 00-4 for rock. take long slings for bailing or to fake up aiders if necessary, and 3 hooks for blank sections (never ever taken a bolt kit in the mountains cause I am too lazy to hand drill) ropes =double 8.5x60's. for mixed add 6 screws and one picket per climber, and trade 2 long draws for 2 screamers. for pure snow and ice i usually just take pickets and screws.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: In the last couple of weeks I have talked with several people who know of this site but do not post because they feel that the highly contentious nature of some of the discussion can only do more harm than good. It may be said that much of what appears here should be viewed as entertainment rather than substantive, so maybe we shouldn't take any of it too seriously. However, I must agree with those who are disturbed by the tone of some of the discussion here: insulting, abusive, and violent rhetoric do not belong on this site (or on the crag). I must say, I have more respect for someone like Lambone, who posted to this site, took a lot of flamage, gave back as good as he got, and perservered to become a valued member of the cc.com regular sprayers, than I do for someone who complainsd that they aren't gonna post to this site at all because they might get a) insulted or b) substantively criticized... or c) ignored, like half the people that post here looking for beta on the size of crevasses on the latest obscure walk-up or what conditions will be like in Lillooet 6 months from now...

Please report all new route 'finds' to bivouac.com.

Yo good one Jon, kill off the protagonist! Will the next author please explain how the guy is looking at the gear in the corner if he's dead (cloning? afterlife?) so I don't have to justify it by the time this story trickles down to me?

Yeah in most of the British Commonwealth outside Canada ('cause we were corrupted by you Yanks) the polite(!) term for one of those packs that goes around your waist is a "Bum Bag".

Best climb so far this summer was "Standing Wave" on Mt. Athelstan. There's spray about it (OK a trip report anyways) at http://bivouac.com/mtn/TripPg.asp?rq=TripPg&TripId=1317.

Fuckin' A I'm in the KTK!!! I will try and do the Klan proud and always piss on a bolt as I pass it by placing sketchy tied off and taped down hooks in opposition. And I will slam in pins on trade routes and laugh too! And make my partner carry the beer.

Social niceties tend to be a disadvantage in the alpine? Like "Oh, I say old bean, you might wish to avoid that {SMUCK!}... too late, oh deah." doesnt work as well as just yelling "ROCK!" and to hell with the social preamble.

Conversation on this site tends to go sideways fast because of the tendency to score points by making a witty remark even if it is not directly germane to the topic. sort of like a face to face conversation more than a conference call. Or trying to tell a story around a campfire with 100 drunks chipping in...

quote: Originally posted by Yossarian: All co-op's are for profit, why would one be formed otherwise?. They either return the profits to the members or re-invest them back in the company. There are no shareholders nor owners, just members. I dunno, REI seems to have gone after money making a lot more than MEC has. People up here are always worrying about MEC turning into REI which is funny because MEC was founded by people tired of driving down to Wash. every weekend to buy gear...

quote: Originally posted by Beck: Become a member of MEC, look at these prices- Malden Mills Powershield jackets for $170 Canadian, a lot of other things are cheaper , too! and they appear to have a high degree of environmental responsibility. The quality control on those jackets is (compared to Arcteryx version) pretty bad though. Lots of the ones hanging on the racks have lots of dangling threads and other minorly annoying flaws that would get them tossed in the seconds bin atArcteryx. But for $170 it is hard to complain...

I found that one kind of tricky myself until you get that OS is Outer Space and D, dreamer, but it could have been clearer. more examples! I will translate or use shortbus or is it the "3rd class, manky runout to offwidth jugs, take a Smoke Bluffs rack and 3 Crack N ups" lingo stuff you dont understand? cause there is no way to translate that. its like biochemistry . there is no easier way to say 2,4 hexadeco cistrans-butylpropionate

Even humans rarely get snowblind in the winter, let alone wolves and coyotes. Not enough sunlight. But in the summer, when you got lots of sun and you are up in the snow.... Do they have Doggles to fit humans? [in case you are a werewolf and you don't want to switch glasses?] Cause I know someone with a dog shaped face and I want to buy him a pair as a present

"Ego ipse custodes custodio".

Can you give me some examples of this? cause I always understand myself so without examples it is kinda hard to figure out what you mean

Ti itself is softer but the Ti forms a Ti02 coating with the air which is harder than stainless steel (they have to add the Cr and Zn to iron to get stainless to do the same thing.) So until you sharpen them Ti screws should be more, not less, durable than steel?? Have placed Ti on lead but due to the extra difficulty due to friction, I usually save them to place as belay screws while standing on belay ledges, where other arm is not pumping out.

MEC is run as a non-profit co-op. REI is run as a for-profit co-op?? Hence the Incorporated in their name?

The thing I hate about the Skaha guide is that the crags are arranged alphabetically so two crags miles apart are right next to each other on the page. kind of confusing at first. for my money best guidebook in USA is watts Smith Rocks guide. photo, topo and text for every route in the book. too bad its big but you never carry a guidebook up a route with you at smith and mine is not trashed yet after owning it for 7 years.