Dru

i dunno about the aid climbing. once i saw a beginning leader aiding to learn how to place gear. he started leading up "kangaroo corner" at the smoke bluffs, his 6th piece pulled, he zippered the next two and stopped with his helmet touching the ground. oops. i personally think the best thing to do is 1 0 borrow a huge rack of gear and go to the base of some crag with a wide variety of cracks on it like mtneerrs dome of whatever. then place every single piece of gear on the rack and attach webbing to it and try and get the gear to pull out by yarding on it. then 2) lead a bunch (10 or so ) of super easy climbs like 5.4 and easier. it will probably be kinda boring but you should practice placing gear whenever you can like maybe 20 pieces on a 20 meter climb. sew the bastard up! then just start leading stuff. try and push yourself into falling off on gear by leading a few climbs at your limit. nothing makes you trust your gear more than having it hold a fall.

there used to be a climb at skaha called "i saw you put your nuts in your mouth" but that cliff is closed now.

Thomas according to the guidebook Waterworks is like 350m east of LADY KILLER!!. We could see ice when approaching on Hwy but we hiked up into the wrong area somehow. Think we should have parked in next pullout E of Lady killer instead of at base. Isnt the ice you are referring (near Asylum) to, essondale L & R ????? PS port alice, you poor bastard, how do you survive? I worked there one summer. NEVER AGAIN!!!!!!!!! +8 C and raining all year long.

if you have a "magic" wand does that make you a fairy godmother like glinda the good? in which case why not turn some snafflehounds and a pumpkin into a coach and horses and ride to the summit in style? my questions are: what weighs more, 1 GPS or 200 wands? How much Gu do you have to leave behind to carry those 200 wands?What does Twight say in Extreeeeeeeeeem Alpinism?why buy them when you can raid your neighbour's garden and cut your own bamboo?Can you eat them if you get snowbound? I hear bamboo shoots are good. I guess they make good firewood but probably burn up pretty fast.Why not get your avalanche poodles to drag the wands for you, that way you can carry more weed up the mountain to smoke in muir hut. just some thoughts on this important topic. trying to contribute useful stuff in 2002!

try some of the links from rockandice.com conditions page. i am never planning to climb there anyways so dont reall care what conditions are like.

maybe it was this thread! http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=001201 if its NOT down, and it has lost loft, you're screwed. it never comes back. that is why down is better!

The thread about Wand Sizes did acquire a lot of silliness too. Thank God for that!

Just to keep the misguided perverts happy - Rachel Babkirk , Rachel Babkirk, Rachel Babkirk! Darryl - I too have met many PNW climbers who do not post to cc.com. In fact I have often discussed the site with them. I wonder though, if eliminating some spray would get many of these people to post anything. I actually doubt it. This site probably is more representative of the PNW climbing community than is a site like www.bivouac.com which is totally spray free and has far fewer posters despite a very high "click through" rate. Fact is about 90% of all web users like to lurk and can rarely muster the urge to post anything in any environment, spray-on or spray-off. And many people out there, especially many more "experienced" climbers, seem not to like to disseminate beta, but prefer to hide it for whatever reason. You know, the guys who after the guidebook comes out, mention that they did six routes on Peak XXXX way before the ascents listed but never reported them... and get all mad about it...????????? I can never figure that out. Admittedly, I will be the first to agree with you that flame wars can be kinda jarring. but they can be fun for the spectators! and they do seem to crop up all over the net. as for immature name calling and insults i try not to do too much of it but it happens. without it we would never have had the beauty of the Muir on Saturday thread

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: I dunno - Heinouscling makes me think of laundry.....or batwings "Why is the Starship Enterprise like toilet paper? Cause it circles Uranus wiping out Klingons." That lame old joke is what I think of when I hear Heinouscling.

Caveman and I are employed as Web Linesmen. we monitor all high-traffic internet sites for possible damage to the web continuum and intervene when necessary. Just like that dude in Johnny Mnemnonic or whatever. its a tough job but somebody got to do it and it might as well be me.

quote: Originally posted by vegetablebelay: Sportclimber fer shur You mean Sprotclimber?

If Dwayner was RURP he would always introiduce himself by saying "This is DWAYNER" and finish off by noting that "DWAYNER has spoken". Besides we all know that pope is RURP, aka PURP and Donna Top Step. Ps to Dwayner : freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies freshies [ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

To counterpoint Darryl I will mention Jon's statistic that something like 10% of the people who visit this site get directed here by doing a web search for the words "Rachel Babkirk" You get out of this site what you put into it. Everybody seems to bag on it but so what. Over 90% of the posts on this site are either self-referential or just plain old spray but i still don't see how that diminishes the other 10% which is so-called useful knowledge of whatever sort. Frankly every climbing related bulletin board on the net has exactly the same so-called problems dating back to the bitchy original, rec.climbing. There is no website that perfectly represents the climbing community and there never will be, because discussions on a climbing website are like discussions climbers have in a bar, often only tangentially connected to climbing, more often than not, about the issues of personal importance to those having the conversation. If you want to build a site which is nothing but beta then go for the www.bivouac.com model which honestly is dull as ditchwater. Generally speaking on this site if you ask an honest question you get an honest answer (and possibly some spray along with it) and if you ask a stupid question than you get a stupid answer. Perhaps those who don't like this site should start a thread on "Spray" called "Cc.com Sucks" in order to properly vent their spleens! A final tip - if you don't want to be sprayed at as much try posting under a girly sounding name - Mr. Ray Borbon pointed this out to me and allowed me to borrow one of his many avatars to try it out and it is correct and accurate. Oh yeah, and and and and and

Oh, my pt, 5 above, where i said "Chase" I meant "Squilax" and neither of those pillars was in on 12/31.

The Stoke was fat when we drove through on the 31st. Looked like some good ice was in just north and east of town up many of the drainages. To the West of town Gap Falls etc was fat and there was significant ice further west near Craigellachie. Up at Rogers pass most of the ice is in huge avvy paths but there is a conspicuous flow just east of the mouth of Smart Creek on a gneiss bluff - looked like a 3-pitch WI4, with some thin spots,where the only avvy hazard would be walking through the trees from the approach.

Kelowna is 1/2 hour drive north of Skaha/Penticton, for you WA climbers. If you can find a copy of the 1986 CAJ, the article "Bikinis and Baby Oil" mentions some ice climbing in the Okanagan Valley. In general there is not much ice that I know of there. You might visit the www.skaha.org website and send its webmaster, Sean Dougherty (also the guy who wtrote Selected Alpine Climbs of The Cdn. Rockies) an email - cause he might know of some Okanagan ice. If you find out anything post it here. I think the nearest reliable site is in Revelstoke though, and that's at least 2 hrs from Kelowna. you could probably drive to Marble Canyon in the same time.

So have they been replaced yet, does anyone know?

Since pope is not jumping in on this one I will also mention "heinous" cause it sounds like Anus (that means you Anusclingon) and "monodoight" which sounds a hell of a lot like "mon ol' twat": especially if you are French. "Eh Bien Pierre, reeach for ze 'einous monodoight!" hee hee.

bolts get stolen all the time. smoke bluffs homeowners chop them off burgers and fries every spring. robin barley goes on chopping rampages at skaha several times a year. somehow they always reappear. i think LUCKY was a bit over the top in the original post. im not a fan of it (except where justified like on DDD ) but one should always anticipate the possibility that bolts may vanish and plan accordingly. at vantage, where holds or even whole routes disappear/collapse with great regularity, some anchors vanishing does not seem too noteworthy in the greater scheme of things.

Every time I go within 10 km of Index the rain starts. Maybe this spring i wil take advantage of some high pessure systems. I know that I can expect Index 5.8 to be Squamish 10b and willplan my leads accordingly. At least with Caveman belaying me I know there will be a soft landing if I crater!

It seems the difference between Mountaineers and CC.commers is that the mtneers swarm the TRs and the CC.commers swarm the bars! Speaking of which I hope you are all psyched for some heavy drinking at Lillooet Ice Fest!

The term vegetablebelay seems to be a veritable bugaboo! I forgot to mention "freshies" in my original post. I think of a little timmy's telethon kid lisping "I want da fweshiez for Kwismass!" and start laughing.

I like the "controlled flail" where someone is groundfall distance out from their pro and shaking like Elvis, then they start to peel off, chuck a dyno, catch it, slide off, re-establish, and beached-whale onto a ledge, all the while babbling "oh my god take take oh shit oh no!" and the belayer is either sleeping or mumbling "You can do it bro, looking good!"

Chuck said : "he's telling us a tale of some past epic and said "I wasn't sure we were going to get down". The airhead chick blurts out, "did you get down?", to which the old crusty guy responded, "No, we're still up there"." nice! [ 01-04-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

What do you think it is? I chuckle every time I say "bumbly". "manky" is a good one too. So is "booty". Fred Beckey has been known to reduce an entire cabinful of climbers to uncontrollable laughs by saying "Snafflehound, huh?". "RURP" is also kinda amusing if not ludicrous.