Dru

[self righteous] Instead of Tring something you cant lead you should lead something you can [/self righteous]. I find TRing ice does nothing much for lead ability in that the lead is all about having the stamina to put in screws while on TR it is much more like you are soloing and you never have to hunt to find ice good enough for screws. Also TRing tends to see many more climbers on the same chunk of ice like at Marble you see "8 dogs on 1 leash" whereas you see parties of 2 or 3 at most on lead routes. So the bashing does occur.Also the issue of TRing on two long ropes "bell ringer style"at Marble means if someone pitches off near the bottom they usually deck anyways!! Not to mention the swarming crowds are at risk of getting smacked by ice chunks. I haven't strictly TRed ice in 5 years now* so I can preach from my little corner of abstinence. * I did put a rope down the dihedral last year to recover gear after getting scared when trying to finish and having a root I was hooking break off and nearly send me whipping. And then TRed through that section once rope was down. but i tried to lead it first...and only 2 of us climbed it... so,

take a look at the 4th class west face chimney. you can see it in this photo: it looks like winter fun. not enough snow when we were there in November 96 or whenever it was.

So you drink Rainier on Rainer, and Sam Adams on Adams, and get Baked on Baker. what do you do on Hood? Where is Mt Weinhard? And what would you get on top of to qualify for drinking a Bowen Island Blonde?

Williams has had relatively lots of winter ascents. But maybe not the 5th class routes on the east side. i hear those have lots of heather and turf that would freeze up good.

I hope you paid your powder tax fee at the border!

In Serl/Kay guide Shreddie is the "unclimbed ice dagger" located in the deep slot right of the Rambles. It was climbed just after Trevor Petersen died and was named for him. closet Secrets takes the ice flows to the left of Shreddie up into the 'closet' and then out the left side and can't be seen from the road hence the name. Both got FAs in the winter of 1995-1996 like a good proportion of the other stuff on the Duffy that wasnt done in the 80's.

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Great Trad Route name I've ever encountered? Easy! "North Ridge of Mt. Stuart". It's witty, clever, and to the point. That would be a better route name if it was located on Ingalls Peak, to confuse people. Like there is a route called "The North Face of the Eiger" on Alps Rock in J-Tree.

I bet the Plum is mostly juice right now. Thomas - what Matt said. I would check out the Cheam range if I was you & looking for climbing- although that said it looks like they got freshies to 1200m or so.

Ok I wake up early. Got up at 11PM once for best conditions! Lycra - do bike tights count? I wear them climbing sometimes too. Beer - I actually have declined on large quantities of ber and gone to bed early in the past in order to climb hard the next day. 5.12 and WI5 - on TR once or twice, lots of flailing. Tape - is aid. Smokes - save lungs for the good stuff. weed - see smokes. This is the good stuff. health food - i do sometimes eat tofu, sprouts, veggies etc. yet i always eat big grease fests when climbing since i need the fat to stay warm. beer gut - 32 inch waist does not seem to qualify. if I had an "ale appendage" maybe i wouldnt get so cold when climbing. train for climbing - only if forced to orbored. i did do a bunch of calf raises before the rockies and biceps curls holding ice tool. but i prefer the biceps curl holding a beer so I think that is about 4.5 +/- out of 5 just call me r2 d2.

"Tape? Tape is aid." - Eric Hutton.

"shreddie" and "closet Secrets" are at the Rambles and the former at least is WI6 the latter is multipitch WI4 or 4+ I think?. some easy route.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I am working on moving into a new place. Once I am settled and all I want to guzzle beers New place - Osama type cave with chipped sport routes on walls, beer cellar, grow op and cave bear skin rug near fireplace.

"The Original Fish Hotline" at Cheakamus. Named after an ad that used to be played before the forecast on the Environment Canada Weatherphone. Somehow hearing someone say that they "just redpointed the Original Fish Hotline" makes me every time.

The do you tape your hands questions - those people are not Robots. They are Bumblies. You know, huge tape gloves when they are going to climb Diedre which has no hand jams on the whole route just finger jams. also seen climbing in party of 4 with 1 leader, 3 followers and everyone wearing an 80L pack full of watermelons to eat on Broadway ledge.

On New years Eve they were checking all cars entering the town, but not any cars leaving the town. The bars are all in town. Go figure. I like to get a room & then walk to the bar anyways. Walking back rom the bar is usually the crux unless robot tendency prevailed.

There are maybe 20 waterfalls in that cirque that have allegedly never been climbed but formation remains rare. The big gully had no ice whatsoever. It looks real good though, if it were ever to form. The WI2+ falls on the approach up Evans Creek has ben climbed (see Serl/Kay guide) and it is possible that a few routes in that bowl may have been done but not reported since then.

Snow mobiles at Cerise ?

SUV's - That would be "Are you a Yuppy?"

Thats pretty correct except I heard they might have been climbed sort of 4th hand. i guess when we/you top out we/you will see if there is a cairn or not! If you get therre first you are required to name individuial spires with "post" names cause they are near Post Creek - eg. Canada post, Last Post, National Post, Express Post, Post modern etc. You aren't Thomas Kutter by any chance are ya? Guys from surrey (whew) relief.. I was worried there for a minute

Shit man I got 5 yesses. Guess which ones! And does "Are you a non Smoker" refer to tobacco or sweet leaf? Cause I like to save my lungs for the good stuff just like I dont give Coors or Bud etc to my kidneys unless its free. [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Go tell Beckey I think he knows already.

Adamson you just gave away the fact you haven't sold off Panther yet

Hiked up into the Blanshard peak-Edge cirque (Evans Creek) . All waterfalls were flowing, only a few small icicles. So we climbed an endlessly long snow gully up to the ridge crest north of Blanshard then headed for Edge. Maybe 600m of mostly 40 degree snow with steps to 55 or so. Great conditions - perfect thick neve and crust made great "shnice" for pick placements. The warm then freeze cycle sure did its job. Turned back about 100m from summit of Edge when confronted with a steep notch and had left gear back at the col to speed things up. also we were starting to get overdue cause they lock the gate at 5:30 and it was 2:00. We eventually made it out at 5:25 with the ranger standing by the gate looking at his watch. So ice may not be in but subalpine snow conditions are highly pwerfect for climbing. Looks like about 4 feet of low elevation snow has melted down in the past two weeks.

who is "we"? how come you came all the way from port alice to scope something that is on my list of "things to investigate and maybe climb"? they look that good but there is better stuff in the tsitika which should be closer to home for you anyways?

quote: Originally posted by panther: Dru, I thought Sean E named that route. That's what he told me anyway...oh well...he's on a Rock and Ice cover and we're not... You are thinking of "Skull Fuck". Negro Lesbian got put up while Easton was still soiling his diapers.