Dru

Buddy at J-Tree is belaying his girlfriend on a 5.7. Girlfriend gets to one point, reaches up to a jug, pulls up and locks, then SCREAMS! Climbs rally fasdt but wont say what is wrong. So the guy is seconding and gets to the same jug. Pulls up, locks off, peeks over lip of jug and there is his hand with a tarantula the same size as his hand investigating it to see if it is FOOD or MATE? [ 02-14-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

you will lnotice that the 'mystery peak' was called 'whatpeakisit.jpg' for just that very reason!

if you like larrabee (and i only went there once, it's so SMALL!) get a boat and head out to Tumbo Island off the coiast of Saturna Island in the Guilf Islands of BC. Exactly same rock formation... 4 mile long traverse on vertical to overhanging huecos all the way around the island. For trask-types there's feral sheep too. My dad used to drop my brother and me off there while he went fishing and we would boulder along with our life jackets on so that when we fell in we could float over to a spot where you could actually climb out. Those Brits and their deep water soloing...I didnt see any of them there in 1978!

rollins has tattoos!

quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: I still beat you Jordo. Hah! I win! What do I get for my troubles Drul? A free guided bushwack up something I (and no one else)have ever heard of? An oppurtunity to belay you on a mossy pitch of Culbert low-5th shi(s)t? Some of Canada's finest herbal remedies? Keep the obscure peak photos coming, maybe I can dredge up some of my own. Peace Any or all of the above... off to fly around some nice peaks in a helicopter now.

I just looked up 604-603-7490 on the mybc.com people finder and its an unlisted number.

quote: Originally posted by jordop: The south facing wall off to the right in Dru's photo looks to have some amazing cracks on it. Viewed to advantage from the Rexford basin, it appears as a giant patch of golden granite resembling the piece that fell off the Dru a couple of years back. You can probably walk along the divide crest from the Rexford basin. "Chinese Puzzle Wall"... Beckey and Rob Must ( I think) did a few pitches in the early 90's... Max De Jong and friends got halfway up in the late 80's... you can still see the bail slings if you know where to look Beckey has it labelled on the drawn topo of the Rexford Approach in Vol. III

quote: Originally posted by max: poilitical/eco-freak comment. did I miss something dru? Anderson River tends to have some aggressive trees in cracks and on ledges (yeah, I get it, and no where else...I agree)

An archaeologist is a guy who wants to sleep with his mummy.

Technically neither Jordo or Darin are correct cause it is BLANSHARD Needle with an S. Or even more pedantically, the official government approved name is Blanshard Peak.

There seems to be more than a few but this one takes the cake Any other girls have self-portrait butt shots they want to post?

we need a Honeyman Falls ice cam so Ray doesnt keep having to make the 7 hour drive to see if its in... i could use a MEC cashier cam to check on the lineups before going in to buy stuff... or a pub club cam to see what I'm missing out on...c'mon someone could hook up a webcam to a laptop with wireless modem and take it along next week?

weren't the roads for oil and gas/uranium exploration what motivated the Monkeywrench Gang??

"Rock!!" Actually?? I hear cameras can capture things not seen by human eye. Maybe some aliens?? A ghost?

[ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: Sorry about that,I had already posted the second guess before I read your reply. Check your PM's, stefan.

quote: Originally posted by Figger Eight: I don't think I've ever seen anyone employ the turn and run strategy successfully. I've seen a bunch of people totally eat shit and start tumbling though. A long slide is better than a long tumble. Funny, Ive pinched a loaf and seen a lot of shit tumble down... but never people eat it!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Let me edit that. If you drink enough Canadian beer your pee will be just like water. Cause American beer is ALREADY water. Why is Budweiser like sex in a canoe?

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: alright, so I feel bad asking this question NOW , after I have already belayed many leads. However i would hate to have someone get hurt because I didnt ask. So.... The first time I was asked to belay a leader I was told to keep enough slack in the rope in order to not pull them off. The person leading, and those who I have belayed since then probly had falling furthest from their mind (as they were climbing something way below their level). Common sense says to brake if they fall. Well, reading johnny's post on mind control some people talked a little more about belaying. It made me wonder if I was missing some knowledge that would prevent the leader from further injury in the case of a fall. examples: Also, it was mentioned a few times about falling and hitting your belayer. I was recently taught to belay (on ice and I imagine it could be useful for rock as well) off an anchor (tree, screws, etc) vs your harness. THe reasoning...if a large chunk of ice comes falling (or person ) you can still hold onto the rope and move far away. I really dont see that being much different than if you are belaying off your harness, tho. In addition, if you had to get help for some reason you would be able to get out of the system and lock your partner off. Not something you can do while belaying off your harness too easily. Just wondering what others think of this and pro's/con's Im missing before I make a decision to belay this way or not. Thanks! [ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: carolyn ] Carolyn: 1) best to belay off your harness. That's what the loop is for. Belaying off the anchor directly is for Euros with Reversos. The main disadvantage I see is that the belay device off the anchor may not conveniently be at waist height and your ability to successfully lock off may be compromised. 2) generally, like Capt. vaguely said - keep the rope to the belayer just on the loose side of tense. Paying out a bit of hero slack is good for most things as it lets leader move suddenly and not get short-roped. it also looks good in pictures! If leader says "OK watch me" or is in terrain where a fall could hit something then you take in a bit, not tight, but no slaxck in the system. For steep stuff you can jump up a bit when they fall so as not to have them swing into the wall. Try it at the gym on a steep wall and see!

quote: Originally posted by fern: what difference does it make if the XX and XY courses are the same gradient and length if the men and women aren't competing against each other? should they do away with the 'men's' and 'women's' qualifiers altogether and throw everyone in the same race for the same medals? ... yeah! cut the whole Olympics in half in one go, then we can get back to the good TV (: You mean if there was no Olympics they'd have more Simpsons on????

quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: Possably Alouette or Needle Peak Alouette is flat, dude. Needle Peak - ? ? ? Look on bivouac.com. Doesnt look like that!!! I meant what I said about no second guesses, either - cheater! [ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: Edge Peak in Golden Ears Park Stefan you are so fucking close.... but no cigar! And no second guesses with a hint like that, young man!

Uh... serious now... better to put it out on a snowbank in your back yard for the afternoon. Cause even dry ropes get wet in the shower eventually!! Or maybe use a known non dry rope for comparison purposes - yeah, the "scientific method" - that's it! I wonder how many beers it will take to make me drunk? [ 02-13-2002: Message edited by: Dru ]

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Oh yeah, and my descriptions are detailed because I pretty much just make shit up. "Uh... yeah...climb a 3rd class ridge, maybe with a few pro placements and the odd bush...avoid difficulties to either side... descend via the obvious gully".

1) Throw it in the shower and see how wet it gets. Or pee on it. Same thing. 2) Loan it to me for a year. I will test it EXTENSIVELY and conme back to you with the answer. My solemn promise.