Dru

Beckey and Clarke arent even in the same category, Beckey is a climber and Clarke is a small-m mountaineer. the dude is so cool though. you got to meet him. a super freak of freaks. he called the route he did with peter croft, "the mule and the acrobat". then after he went back to camp peter soloed 3 more routes on the same 1000' tower that afternoon.

quit rubbing it in bastards, i dont get laid off till next year at the earliest!

quote: Originally posted by jordop: cause Dru works for the government and appropriates Crown resources for his own sick and twisted projects. People like him taking advantage of government resources give civil servants a bad name! This is precisely why the Liberals are cutting back services! Shit, as a teacher the only think I've gotten is an old Gordon Smail guidebook to the Chief from a school library which features these really cool illustrations of drunken vikings trying to belay and climb! More pictures Dru! i had to look out of the helicopter for deer. thats why i got sick. and i traded a smaill guide for beer once. "tyed off rurps and a lack of beer typify this gnarly horror show for wall freaks. a one-bouncer.".

quote: Originally posted by epb: Where else you going to see Chris Sharma climbing revelation, for FREE! Im volunteering at the VIMFF next weekend and im not only gonna see it free with first hand narration by Sharma himself but Im gonna smoke a bowl with him backstage and brainwash him into rope gunning for the KTK...

quote: Originally posted by Alex: I think John Clarke and Freb Beckey should get into the BATTLE CAGE!!!! We could call it, [qb] Battle Cage: Pacific Northwest Legends! I bet Beckey would win. [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: Alex ][/QB] it is like apples and oranges or clams and oranges... Clarke only ever roped up about 3X in his life but he climbed like 200 first ascents every year... all "John Clarke 3rd class", namely 5.4-5.6... dude can outwrestle a grizzly bear and dig like a wolverine...and he smells like a goat... one time David Hughes (the old CAJ editor)even gave him some fancy shiny lycra 'cuase he was sick of always seeing some pictures of him in the same white polypro with holes in it.

quote: Originally posted by Alex: I would suggest the following rules of thumb: Ablation zone of the glacier? rope not needed. All other situiations. Rope needed. Of course a rope does not substitute for knowing what the fuck you are doing with it, but that can be said about any aspect of roped climbing Examples: corn snow? rope neededno visible crevasses? rope neededspring/early summer in the cascades on a glacier? rope needed Have I followed this rule of thumb always? No. But I was gambling with my life. Will I always follow this rule of thumb? I am prone to following it alot more since I got a stern talking-to by a climbing partner who I respect greatly, after saying something like "its corn snow, no visible crevasses, blah, blah, blah" The truth is YOU NEVER KNOW unless you are on ablation zone. Do you REALLY want to be known as the idiot who died unroped on Sulphide Glacier? Alex [ 02-15-2002: Message edited by: Alex ] John Clarke spent 30m years doing month-long solo traverses through the Coast Range, mostly on glaciers and ridges... he only ever punched through one crevasse and that was while setting up his tent like TG says, knowing how to read the snow is the biggie. soloing on a glacier is like soloing on easy rock, in terms of failure consequences. it may be dangerous but it sure is fun and lots of people do it...my advice to anyone wanting to try, is, 1) get some experience travelling with a rope on2) make up your own mind not dissing anyone for always roping up and hopefully no disrespect for my choice not to.

This is south face of Viennese from a helicopter as of yesterday. Dont think that ice streak has been climbed either. I was puking while shooting so photo is a little poorly focussed cause 1 hand was holding the barf bag.

Sit starts are only cool if you have arm strength. I call that cheating

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: I'm suffering from post-valentines day trauma- did you know that 1/2 dozen roses costs the same as a cam? Did you know that for that much money you could buy three bottles of wine, and they're more effective?

i wanna use pineyK's rocket launcher on some shit! like maybe on some glued on holds at deception cragz! lets make it a summit meeting on chilliwack river trail - i will hike in from BC with the pack full of greens.

i rope up when necessary, probably about 75% of the time on glaciers. in spring/early summer it really isnt necessary. i descended the whole fisher chimneys route from summit in july once without roping up. following a beaten trail with no punch throughs.

will they let me across the border?

quote: Originally posted by jordop: A certain well-known executive of an alpine club that I climb with occaisionally carries, and wears at the same time, Gore pants and jacket, a rain poncho, and a pack cover. The man also takes a full spice kit wherever he goes! The danger words here are ...executive.. and ...alpine club... The only "club" worth a damn is the KTK. The rest {the ones wid Executives and so on} you should run not walk from.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I soloed that naked 2 months ago That's your woodie they are dry tooling

quote: Originally posted by CleeshterFeeshter: Erik,I admit I have been disturbed this winter. Only been out on the ice 2x. Banks apparently has not formed and was planning on that trip to balance the industrial angst. Tired of the Utah Ice. Gotta drive from Boyzee to get anywhere but here. Send me the frapp coupon and I will drink the caffeine laden elixir of productivity. The following a a real and true "no shit" conspiracy story that ties in Bush Sr- me-and this forum.I attended USMA (West Point 89) and dated this nice looking blond girl in 1986. She lived in Tarryton,NY and worked at the Marriott Hotel in White Plains,NY. White Plains is the home of many large Corps (IBM,Xerox, etc). Anyway, this is a nice Marriott with a very upscale restaurant inside. VP Bush and Haig were staying there for a publican fundraiser.VP Bush is drunk off his ass trying to get my then 21 yr old girlfriend up to his VP suite. He spent 2 hours trying to get her up there and then sent the SS down to work her. She was fortunately smarter, younger, and much better looking than Paula Jones and Monica. The Bushes make JFK look like amatuer night. Its a good think chokers werren't fashionable in 1986

How thick was the smoke in the Hut?

"The act of destruction is also a creative act." - Mikhail Bakunin.

Vege I hope you are collercting your cc.com guide's fee from Mr. Parker some of us worked hard to make sure these secret methods of inserting quotes and images remain secret....

Bullets or ballots? What about Ballets or Ballnutz?

quote: Originally posted by JayB: No shit --- still there eh? Last time I ran into him at the UW wall he was regaling some climber visiting from South Africa with tales of the connections between Steve Largent, the CIA, and the Cali Cartel or something. Yipes! Sounds like Cleeshtefeeshter?

The Valley is only good in the spring thru fall. Surprisingly, that's also the best time for Coast Mtns alpine climbing I never been to the Valley yet. No ripoffs, no bears in da car, no crowded lines, no rangers wit attitude, no overpriced deli, no poser scene, no shit bags flying down and smacking you onna head. Man I guess I have to hit the Ditch sometime I seem to be missing out on a LOT!

With the tails, you can shrink the shoe down for putting in your pack for those routes where you climb up a face and then plod off down the other side of the mountain, and still have some flotation in soft conditions. There is currently a recall out on MSR Denali Ascents and regular Denalis made from Sept-Nov 2001 due to some breakage problems so check the date stamp when you buy 'em. I found i was going faster on my Denalis than GR was on his tele skis this weekend approaching Nepopekum...but Serl forgot his skins and post holed and beat us both back to the car!

The Rockies much admired classic has been climbed. http://www.gravsports.com/Ice%20Pages%20Folder/Route%20Descriptions/Caveman%20Direct.htm Note use of new grading system too: Also how long is it gonna be before someone here uses Cassius Spray as an avatar name?

How deep is the snowpack? Winter/spring snow is often so deep the crevasses are something its not worth worrying about.The small ones get filled in and the big ones bridge over with a 9 foot thick bridge. From about March thru early June the rope is OFTEN (but not always) dead weight in your pack. Also, in winter, the glaciers at lower elevations do not advance as rapidly (colder), so crevasses tend to close up some, and get narrower. Then they widen up in summer.* * I just know some real glaciologist type like fern is gonna challenge me on this one so I confess in advance I probably made this "fact" up. It sure sounds plausible though!