scot'teryx

Went climbing up at Clems Holler area yesterday. John and I made our way up to Retardant Rock after an enjoyable climb on "Gun Rack". We found most of Retardant Rock occupied except for a far left bolted 10a slab. I decided to give it a shot even though I don't like slab so much. I got the 7th bolt or so and after a few tries I decided I did not want to fall on this particular climb. He lowered me down and then gave it s shot himself. He made it to the next to the last bolt and then took a short 10 foot fall, followed by screaming and swearing. I lowered him down carefully only to find he was in a ton of pain. There was no compund fracture or blood, so we let him set for awhile and see what happens. Luckily, 2 of the other 4 people climbing next to us were wilderness first reponders, and I had been certified last year as a first responder. I immediately called for SAR, but instead they sent 2 deputy sherrifs with a wheeled litter and met our friend at the trail. After we got the litter up to John we started what became a 3.5 hour descent down to the roadside. We had 4 people on each handle, and belayed him down the rocky and narrow trail. 3 ropes were used and we did about 25 belays. W/O this technique it would have been very difficult and might have sent john down the hill in the litter. The ambulance was waiting for us once we reached US 2. He was taken to Cascade Hospital in 11worth, where it was accessed that he fractured his Talus bone and rotated it 90 degrees. He had to see a bone doctor that evening, so we drove to Providence in Everett and luckily enough an orthoopedic surgeon came in and immediately got him into emergency surgery. Turns out the ankle was his sub speciality and it was going to need a screw. The talus bone is also one of the few bones in the body that can die in a few hours if not taken care of immediately (I was told). John went into surgery at 3am and got out around 7am. I saw him this morning and he was dealing with it okay, considering he just got laid off from his job last month, and has no medical insurance. Not sure what happens for him at this point except he is staying with us for a few days since he has a 5 speed and it was his left foot. Wish him a safe recovery, but he wont be on the foot for another 6-8 weeks I'm told.

It was still rough when I was there back in October of last year Static Point Car got scratched up pretty bad

Right on, heading up there again on Sunday after being rained off 2 weeks ago. Sounds like the east face rappel route gave you no problems?

Alpine Lakes? I thought Del Campo was in the North Cascades

Summon the cougars in the area with the secret squirrel whistle and have them carry me out on the magic rug

I'm gonna protest everyone, it's all crap! Sewer rat might taste like pumpkin pie..........

Updated Information: http://nwog.org/reports/092003mac.htm So if your interested in any way, please let me know your team and how many there are of you, as I would like to know what to expect. Just send me an email with your contact info. I also want to make sure to limit this to 5-10 teams depending on team members (# in team) Support is very welcome, so let me know if you would like to help out there as well. I might be able to get prizes for those folks as well

Size Medium, Medium Waistbelt Blue/Black Model 2001 Used for 2 seasons yet in great condition Make offer scott@nwog.org

It smelled pretty nasty actually, but that's because we found andrew irvine

It's only the 2nd time ive been up there this year if you can believe that, the last time was january i think and i was skiing.

I think I read in a recent mag that the AAI or someone thinks that it is a good idea to tie a hitch every ten feet or something like that inbetween your partner and yourself which will create friction on the lip of the crevasse if someone does fall in

Why the hell would anyone consider this route? I don't have any idea, but MysticNacho, myself, and Aaron decided to go try it out last saturday since I had heard from a few people that you can get in about 1.5 pitches of 5.6 in a dihedral or something like that. A short approach and good views sounded enticing, especially the late start we were able to make. (TH @ 12 noon) The trail was packed as always, and once we got below the saddle we veered left and gained the Frozen lake plateau, which is not frozen this year. The granite up in this area is so awesome, pearly white, and you can't see it from anywhere on the trail system. Once up there the north face seems imposing, and we tried to pick the appropriate line. We scrambled up some slabs bypassing a ton of junk and trash, literally a ton! Before we knew it we were directly beneath the Lookout Tower and we spotted a line that looked pretty fun. Our assumption was wrong. I won the lead and headed out with my trango boots, and before I knew it it was harder than expected. The little edges did not work too well with my boots, so I continued up this dirty and brushy area to a belay. I brought the other 2 guys up and the Aaron led the last bit out that was a dirty 5.8 hand crack that could be sweet if it was clean, and then an offwidth chimney that brought us to the summit and got to the belay at the lookout tower. During the last pitch we had an apple core thrown down at us and a few rocks tthat wizzed by our heads. I must say that we picked the worst line up the face, and when we were up there I noticed plenty of sweet cracks that could be sent if cleaned. Has anyone else out there spied this area before? Here's Nachoguy at the belay:

AKA "Gaper Ice" Wait till late season when it gets dirty and bulletproof! That's the best time to go!

BD even gave me permission and shit to use that image ............hizzo for my bizzo yo.

You don't need gear for the route, just sling the trees and horns! I like having a #1 and #2 for the climb. Nothing else is needed.

Mounties are so suck!

More information here: MAC II Race Information

It's all hand holding in the intermediate class, books and experience are the best IMO. The knowledge I have gained in the past year has been from other climbers that I look up to, and others that are learning as well and we share information. They told me how they screwed shit up, what not to do, and shoved the john long books in my face. Find a mentor and learn from them and their mistakes. The intermediate climbs are pretty stupid from what I have heard. You really want to go climb "Gaper Rock" and lead "Sabre" with the Mounties? YUCK!

SATURDAY September 20 12-20 hour route

One move wonder for a guy that has a wing span of 13 feet!

we are definately gonna due the east ridge, looks like a fun route

Heading up this Sunday to go for the East Ridge direct or just to do the West Ridge. Does the East Ridge "go in a day" moving at a moderately fast pace? Not sure if they take the same amount of time. Is there a bergshrund to cross like the west ridge? Danka...

I'm not going to be team hc, that is what I was asking you guys.

Not too sure just yet The route last year was cool, but riding bikes on the MLH really sucked. So we thought about a start at alpental and up and over by melakwa lake, down to denny lake TH, then bike to the iron horse trail and down to the mcclellans butte trail and up and down that sucker or another peak in the area, then bike into north bend for the finish I am guessing this could take anywhere from 8-14 hours????

It's in the works I guess. I got a futures issue that has no beta but routes and grades and it is pretty cool. It seems some of the harder routes on WWI are not rated correctly sI was told by this guy that I belayed on a 13c last weekend. True Sporto! Fun place though.